johny

I know it can be difficult to find if the problem is at front or back so I wonder if its worth getting the car on flat ground and getting each end at a time up on axle stands. Then see if the other end still has a height difference...

I take it the heights of the back arches are equal?

Thanks, so setting it up on the induction stroke and I assume thats just for one particular type of cam?

If not a new chain and sprockets you might find flipping the cam sprocket for a quarter tooth change might align the marks slightly better and get even more power😍

ooh tell us more?

no I take that back because you should have already set those tappet gaps so I think any difference in pushrod length has been compensated for😊

yes and I reckon the rocking point method of getting the cam in the right position needs the 1 and 2 pushrods to be exactly the same length as otherwise the cam will be moved from the correct position to compensate the difference....

Your right of course but if you want to set it up using its 'rocking point' and keep the alignment of the sprockets punch marks/lines you have to get the cam in the right position relative to its sprocket. The engine would still run perfectly with the cam installed 180º out to its sprocket but youd have a job finding the exact correct position for it (the sprocket can be bolted on in 4 different positions) and said punch marks/lines wouldnt then match....

Cam lobes 1 and 2 should look like this at crank TDC mark then all other cylinders will also be correct....

Wait a minute, the inlet valve opens just before TDC exhaust/induction but the one you want is TDC compression/power which means 180º more rotation of the cam...

Its just that to find the 'rocking point' of the cam (the point which corresponds to piston 1 compression TDC) its recommended to have the head on, tappets adjusted correctly and then turn the cam until valves 1 & 2 have equal tappet clearances....

Just thought, as its a another cam you'll need to check its end-float and of course it makes confirming the sprockets axial alignment even more important...

I think I can see the cam punch mark in the photo through the sprocket hole opposite the one where it should be. Might be an illusion and anyway if not sure you'll need to find the 'rocking point' of the cam for cylinder 1 as indicated in the manual if the marks are missing...

In your case its easy as youre reusing the sprockets but I think in the photo you may have the cam sprocket wrong by 180º. Theres a punch mark on the cam flange and this has to show in the hole next to the similar punch mark on the sprocket. Once youve got that sorted its just a case of installing the sprockets with chain so the other marks line up. Finally turn the crank in its normal rotation direction twice and confirm the sprocket marks have returned to correct alignment. If you havent removed the dizzy drive gear it will still be correctly set to the cam so the ignition timing wont have changed... Got to say though, how youre doing all this without first reading the manual is amazing😮

ha, ha good luck with that one! In the end it comes down to how it runs and if coolant gets expelled and drawn back in satisfactorily - something which Ive sometimes found quite difficult to achieve because of small leaks usually where hoses attach🤪

The free to download Triumph workshop manual says they want to be torqued to 24 - 26 lb.ft and explains how to install the camchain which has to be in place before you put on the top sprocket. Also have you checked the condition and axial alignment of the chain and sprockets?

It is asking a lot of the top seal I suppose as in service it only has to seal well enough to allow the vacuum generated by the cooling system to pull coolant back from the reservoir bottle. I can certainly get and hold quite a good pressure in my radiator/overflow pipe however I have an aftermarket aluminium rad with a miniature Japanese style rad cap...

According to Rimmers the hose comes in two sizes GRH533 and GRH533L with the second one recommended for use on full width rads...

yes probably best to check the lift pressure with the foot pump as on disconnecting it the cap will liberate any excess pressure. Then when you pump again the reading you get when air starts to re-enter the rad will be what the cap closed at...

Hmmm that doesnt surprise me with Bastuck....

It does if you disconnect the pump as then the system should just sit there pressurised until you remove the rad cap...

Also I see radiator caps for Triumphs also come in a 1" deep version as opposed to the 3/4" recommended for the GT6 so wonder if one of these would be better in your case....

To test my system cold I pressurise it using a foot pump connected to the overflow pipe so air is pushed in via the caps vacuum release valve. Have to be careful to use the gauge not go too high as of course the cap wont lift to protect things but you can then leave it for a while and check to see if pressure has been lost. NOTE that when removing the cap coolant will spray back out as although not hot its messy cos it can shoot out like a fizzy drink!

The centre vacuum release valve of the cap does seem to be standing pretty far away the lower rubber seal... I take it when you install the cap theres no need to push down to compress the spring before locking it because theres no contact between seal and neck anyway!

Let us know how you get on as there might be a couple of other things to try👍