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johny

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Everything posted by johny

  1. johny
    yes my favourite possibility is crank bearing caps mixed up or on wrong way round😞
  2. johny
    It is still possible that the starter motor isnt giving full starting torque even though it spins ok on no load. Theres a test in the workshop manual but of course it needs specialised equipment to do it🙁About the best you could do is try to find another starter to confirm the engine has a problem before going any further...
  3. johny
    could try spinning without the plugs in? Also of course you havent tried a jump lead on the positive side which is where theres more likely to be a problem...
  4. johny
    Should look like this and you can see it matches the bridge piece in the previous pic...
  5. johny
    Ah in that case you can just about see in this pic where the gasket sits on the bridge piece. They match the shape of each of its end where it seals up into the block...
  6. johny
    This is a strange one because I dont think a gasket was used on the mk1 six cylinder engine - I can only find it on Canley's drawing of the mk2 and is not mentioned in the workshop manual. This follows my own experience as when I tried to use the subsitute UKC8321 gaskets on my mk1 the aluminium bridge piece wouldnt sit flush with the base of the block and the sump gasket would never have sealed. In the end I just used a sealant and no gaskets....
  7. johny
    I couldnt post on the original of this thread but wanted to know if a broken circlip would even stop 4th being selectable?
  8. johny
    They are restorable, have a look for a good how-to thread on here. I'll be doing mine soon - one day😏
  9. johny
    The cappings are galvanised which is why they last so well except for accidental scrapes. I think the choice is try to clean up any damage as best as possible and keep the galvanising OR take it all off to get a perfect surface but one which may look different and will also need much more regular polishing. Of course re-galvanising might be an option but Ive never heard of it being done....
  10. johny
    Pity someone doesnt do the overriders in stainless as Id prefer that to poor chrome and anyway on a Vitesse they would match the aluminium bumper cappings better!
  11. johny
    Sump says 16 - 18 lb.ft and they should maintain minimum of 8 lb.ft after a settling period (in other words the spring washers have to be good). No mention of the bolts that go into the aluminium bridge pieces and I reckon these should be the same to assure oil tightness...
  12. johny
    My free to download Vitesse/GT6 manual says 8 - 10 lb.ft and the pumps are very similar...
  13. johny
    That sounds more like the technique for hydro dipping which might be another possibility and would certainly give better coverage...
  14. johny
    ouch that must be demanding given the sharp compound curves of an overrider😲
  15. johny
    Have a close look at the core plug in the side of the block thats covered by the exhaust manifold. These seem to go long before the others, presumably because of the heat, so worth changing now if theres any doubt...
  16. johny
    And of course the right type of head gasket👍
  17. johny
    of course theres chroming and chroming! My experience on new pattern part overriders is that the chrome is nothing like the original's so prone to flaking and corroding much more rapidly...
  18. johny
    I think Colin the way it works is theres one casting made with internal oil passage and both oil cooler ports all blocked. Then for use with an oil cooler you drill and tap the two ports but leave their internal bypass passage blocked or for no cooler you dont drill the ports but yes their internal bypass👍 It means the flow is through the filter first then off to cooler (or not) and back out of adaptor into engine block....
  19. johny
    I should have done it like that but never got round to a retorque and now over 25 years later seems a bit pointless....
  20. johny
    With the mk1 six cylinder you have to take the manifolds off to get to some of the head bolts so surely it cant be done very hot!
  21. johny
    I got mixed up as I was thinking youd already replaced the head gasket but with an old used one the retorque was a very long shot so highly unlikely youve lost anything🙂
  22. johny
    My preferred option would be to convert the existing adaptor by plugging its cooler ports and opening an internal oil way. Looking at them I reckon this last involves no more than running a drill (biggest possible) through the threaded spin on filter conduit into the casting internal wall so that the cooler ports are effectively bypassed...
  23. johny
    Just for reference I dont think I would have released any head nuts but just tightened them up more to the correct higher figure following the pattern indicated in the manual. This is basically a head retorque that is recommended when a few miles have been done after a gasket change...
  24. johny
    I wondered if the recessed type block made a difference but I think the mk 3 came in both types and the manual torque figure doesnt seem to distinguish between them. As you say either way it looks like Kevin under torqued his head...
  25. johny
    yes here we go:
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