johny

I think they are 3 synchro boxes (the main case is externally different) so its quite a mish mash of parts and from memory: synchro rings the same, none of the gears the same including the laygear and input shaft, layshaft different, mainshaft different, main bearings same, mainshaft tip bearing same. Then there might be various bushes, thrust washers and spacers that are shared... As you say the most useful could be the 4th gear synchros which would need close inspection and testing on your Vitesse cones👍

yes any wire will do but it must be flexible (insulation and conductor) as the backplate of the dizzy moves back and forth under the action of the vac unit and so the wires connecting it will be bent one way and the other, a lot...

Or just set it up moving the float by hand with the sender out of the tank?

Looks a nice bit of kit and I see it has a setting for 240 - 33 ohms but surely as theres no exact match you'll use the custom sensor calibration? Dont forget you still need to leave the original 10v stabilised supply powering the temperature gauge.... Let us know how you get on👍

A good dry system shouldnt give out any shocks but a poor damp one can do the opposite with the corresponding misfiring. Trouble is by eye its difficult to tell the difference although viewing the running engine in the dark (with care) can give an indication😮 Saying all that it is best to avoid allowing the leads to be in contact with anything where possible (theres various clips and spacers available) because of the risk of damaging them through abrasion...

The most likely would be a sender working with a stabilised 10v supply for a bimetallic instrument which would give ohms 240 empty, 68 half and 20 full. Earlier vehicles might have had moving iron instruments with a completely different set up...

Keep an eye on the area Dave and your coolant level but probably as you undid the bolt the joint, being only held by 2 other fixings. opened slightly so coolant was able to pass from a water passage to the bolt and its hole....

Actually thats exactly whats shown in the workshop manual and the hole in it certainly looks big enough to accept the later pump with built in strainer so perhaps no point removing the grill....

Did you run the engine without the rocker cover as suggested? A long shot but might see something thats not right....

I suppose they could fill by gravity but the fuel needed on tick over is minimal so that any blockage would have to be pretty complete. The usual thing is to get the rubbish in the float valve so it cant close properly and the carb overflows but that doesnt seem to be happening here🤔

I guess the disc isnow fitted in the bottom because its easier to drill and cut the thread all the way through rather than have special tools to do it with a blind end. The problem, as we've seen, is that if not well sealed the disc leaks your carefully injected oil leaving the threads to wear rapidly☹️ These silvered ones on ebay might be better as hopefully the disc is soldered....

But if the bowls have run dry I cant see how the carb bowls can refill after the engine has stopped so that it restarts and runs a bit more...

Maybe it'll seal up with a bit of use😁

Yes I can get the prop off and drop the exhaust out of the way but as you say the chassis rails are probably too narrow there to allow enough access😞

This one from Rimmers definitely looks Indian....

All Ive seen come with no paint as not needed on bronze. However dont even after market ones come with the name Stanpart? I wouldnt know how to tell an original apart from perhaps the roughness of its surface finish and, if it has a plate in the end of the threaded socket, then definitely not original...

Pretty sure I know the answer but does anyone think I have a chance of changing a non OD Vitesse gearbox rear seal from underneath - I have got quite small hands😁

Good news Martin. That grommet should help but the idea of having some sort of large flexible disc to cover the whole of the top of the bayonet cap is to stop possible road grit flying up and into those sliding surfaces especially the plastic one where, with the grease slapped in there, it could act as grinding paste....

Right yes I agree. Looking at your photo the old plastic inner cup is very worn and wouldnt have held the spring in place with out the addition of that split washer. It must be home made and was split to allow it to be dished... The gear lever components are quite fragile so dont last long and if you want to keep gear changes at their best expect to be doing this job again in a few years (depending on mileage of course)😊

I think the rubber washer is what you get now for 611177 but I have seen old floppy type split discs fitted as dust shield before the gaiter. What comes in the kit to replace your split disc if not the rubber washer? Check all youre new metal components are free of sharp edges and file them off if not....

Thats it, split washer, which does very little, goes on last before the gaiter👍

I get something similar with my multimeter and its probably down to not being a quality instrument. It seems the dial contacts oxidise a bit so I have to turn it back and forth vigorously quite a few times to clean them before the readings become repeatable....

Please explain?

yes that reading is miles too high for the low tension side of a coil but I take it if you connect the meter leads together the resistance reading is pretty near zero?

Are you sure about those sender resistance readings as the correct Smiths sender should show 240ohm empty and 20ohm full so has no chance of working with a Euro type gauge...