johny

The principal advantage of changing to an alternator isnt really the increase of the maximum output available as its unusual in a classic to install much extra demand (think heated screens and steering wheels, electric mirrors, seats and steering) but the power that can be generated at low revs. Especially if any extra lighting is LED 40amp will be plenty so why carry the unnecessary weight of anything bigger?

Is it silver coloured like original and can you get it in rolls as I find 'kits' a rip off?

that is impressive although of course also depends how long the replacements last....

Must admit doesnt look original but as you say lasts and there doesnt seem to be any other material easily available...

yes its a technical term for a great material that, along with fibreglass, cardboard and tin cans, can be used to repair body damage when its decided that welding in new metal is either too time consuming, beyond our ability, requires equipment we dont have or just too much hassle😁

Cutting it would leave open ended strands of gauze wire which could come loose so if your pump has a strainer fitted I would recommend prising open the tabs that hold the gauze sheet on the mk1 sump and removing it completely. Theres also the difficulty of threading your pump intake, which may be angled, through the gauze as you try to install the sump...

Not time to upgrade to copper Dave? A poor condition fuel pipe would be a MOT fail and is pretty easy to change...

Canley seem have the MK1 type sump in stock if youre stuck although it probably will need the gauze sheet modifying (not difficult)...

yes the mk1 engine sump had a gauze mesh sheet across it to catch any debris and its oil pump intake was open while the mk2 engine sump had the gauze in the end of the oil pump intake instead. Ive used a later oil pump in my Mk1 Vitesse engine and the sump gauze sheet had to be ripped out as the new pumps intake filter wouldnt fit into it - I believe this is the only difference...

Looks like theres one part number of sump for Vitesse Mk2, GT6 Mk2 and 3 then another for Vitesse 1600 and mk1 2L plus GT6 Mk1 so they probably relate to the model of engine not the car. There can be sump problems with using saloon engines but I cant see why your Mk2 Vitesse engine with its correct sump shouldnt go straight in a Mk1 GT6....

Without wanting to frighten anybody though I would be on the listen out for low level continuous noise from the running engine. I read an article years ago which said if the sixes big ends and mains were replaced at 50 and 70k respectively the crank would last indefinitely. Thats certainly about when Ive found the bearings worn and replaced them, the last time only realising the mains were deteriorating when somebody else pointed out the noise😲 Doing this (plus a new oil pump) has definitely reduced start up rattle and improved oil pressure...

Agree on the gear knob switch and as the column stalk switch is too much hassle and expense Im going for a long illuminated flick switch mounted under the dash bottom rail for the D type OD conversion on my Vitesse. Reckon I can operate it with minimum time hand off steering wheel, can see if its in or out without taking eyes off road, do away with relay as switch is beefy enough and reduce wiring in the arduous gearbox environment...

well it might depend on how long the engine is left without being run? Certainly it looks like the Mann second anti drain valve is a spring loaded affair in the filter outlet rather than a rubber flap like the first and so probably adds even more resistance to the initial fill of the system...

Yes I remember that but now wonder if it was due more to the oil pump emptying. If its bottom plate seals well it should stay full of oil indefinitely because its inlet and outlet ports both come in from the top. Then as soon as the pump spins oil should start to flow but if its gone dry this is much more difficult....

I believe the adaptors for Triumph sixes always use the thread 3/4-16 UNF as this corresponds to the one used in spin on filters for various Rover models (original Mini, Maestro, 200 etc)...

Should do nicely Dave with two non return valves, one as described above and the other in the outlet port to try n hold oil up in the engine oil ways...

The oil on the valve is strange almost like the guide is to big for the stem! Could back pressure (a lot) come from the rocker box through the vent pipe to the carbs?

Cracks are pretty unusual with the mk1 head. The most likely is between the larger valves of the later design...

All part of the fun🤔

I think that rocker cover is finally going to have to come off too...

converting to a J type OD is a popular modification as its supposed to be stronger and certainly uses less current to operate. Not so unusual as this was the Triumph supplied set up on the mk4 Spitfire. I believe in your case the reverse light might be operated by another switch at the front of the gear change rod so the switch arrowed is redundant however it should still be tight with a gasket to the top cover as oil can come out... I would top up oil normally, go and have a cup of tea and then come back to recheck the level before replacing filler plug.

I'll add a krona and say I think the engine has sat around a while so a valve(s) stem has corroded and now doesnt slide smoothly in its guide. The inlet valve(s) still moves but is sticky which gets worse as it heats up when it doesnt close fast enough so the compression stroke pushes a bit of gas back out, maybe...

You can see at least one of the anti drain valves if you look in the small holes in the base of the filter around the outside of the central threaded exit port. These holes should be blocked and if you gently poke something in the rubber flap that attempts to seal them will push inwards. Of course the downside of these is that they do cause a small pressure drop (no idea how much) so you get less pressure in your system...

Nothing to stop this working in my opinion as theres plenty of modern cars with a similar arrangement although their paper filter sits in a vertical tube which makes for very easy changes. However the idea of the spin on adaptor was that the filter sits closed end downwards (as much as possible) so always staying full of oil meaning on start up less time is taken filling it before oil gets to the bearings. With this in mind some cartridge filters come with one or even two non return valves (rubber flaps over their inlet ports) which, if mounted like yours, slow the emptying of the filter so its probably recommendable that you use this type....

Going to say, which direction does the new one go in?