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johny

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Everything posted by johny

  1. I think the Huco works on the same principal Pete but instead of being pulled back by the cam the spring is pulled back by a solenoid so the spring is what determines the system pressure. If the spring cant release because its not strong enough to overcome the system pressure the solenoid contact isnt made and the pump stops...
  2. To be honest with you I think its asking a lot of any pressure regulator without recirc back to the fuel tank to successfully control the system pressure against a closed valve which of course is the moment the float valve is most likely to leak. Their main purpose is to maintain the set pressure when driving so that the carb(s) never run out of fuel at high loads....
  3. Petrol fumes not bad (hydrogen far worse) as long as area well ventillated (test then stop and wait etc), no accumulation points (pits or drains) and no naked flames😁
  4. I suppose you could try running the pump with the bottoms off the carbs and then raise the floats manually to see if they cut off the flow at the valves...
  5. well as I say by my calculations its about a quarter tooth and you can read in the manual how to achieve this. Just take your time and check and recheck before running but as our engines arent 'interference' design a valve can never hit a piston no matter how wrong the set up is👍 You can even take pictures at each stage for checking on here...
  6. Difficult one to answer definitively but how does this sound: the inlet valve is late closing so some compression of the mixture is lost. A less compressed mixture needs more time to burn so the timing has to be advanced or power is lost because the burn wont be complete until too far after the piston has passed TDC. This is just a thought but it certainly seems quite possible...
  7. The ultrasonic clean suggestion if you can blag a session in one might be worth following up...
  8. oh and of course checked your pump pressure?
  9. Have you replaced the standard valves Roger? Like anything they can wear...
  10. Pete has some useful comments in this thread:
  11. yes never found slivers just fine rust powder from the tank accumulating especially in the pipe connections to the carbs just before the valves. Sorry its a while ago I read the comments which were along the lines of being expensive for little gain. Interesting that their ad points out that the original design can wear out - mine are originals with 80k+ under their belts but I suppose they could need replacing at some stage?
  12. No experience with those although have read some less than favourable comments on them. The only time my standard set up carbs have flooded its been down to dirt in the system and since a clean up plus installation of a fuel filter Ive had no further problems, even using an after market pump...
  13. Where was the oil found to be coming from in the end?
  14. Strange, could we see a photo or two Paul?
  15. hmmm better budget more like 15k and without much wiggle room...
  16. Well you'll wait along time for a perfect one and Id rather negotiate on the price because of the interior than a respray or other major works (ad does say 'or best offer'). Its been on sale quite a while plus any inspection is always a learning opportunity....
  17. ooops of course theres no unique serial number on heads but possibly a stamped part identification number which would have to do....
  18. Good plan so make sure you get a bill detailing the exact work done and indicating the head serial number...
  19. I suppose it would have to be the inlet valve as this is the one where oil could be 'sucked' in but why just cylinder 3? All the valve guides should wear pretty much equally....
  20. Sounds like your luck has changed👍
  21. No problem making wrong decisions (well ok not as good as making right ones😁) as long as you made the correct one based on the information you had at the time...
  22. Im afraid Ive had experience of workshops feeding you information so that you start down the road of repairs only to find at the end with the total cost you would have taken a different route - I think its an old trick....
  23. just thought, also check the head is flat!
  24. The zero compression was before the dropped valve. The decision now is whether best to spend money renovating this engine or buy another one...
  25. I just hope the original low compression is explained by the valves and not worn bores/rings (the addition of oil in the compression test would have identified this)🙁
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