johny
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Everything posted by johny
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Are you sure the friction plate is in the right way round Iain? Deeper side of boss outwards otherwise it can jam against the flywheel and interfere with the power transfer through the friction surface?
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well compression ratio can get important if, like me, you hope to skim the head. Then I will have to work out how much to take off to get a little boost in ratio👍
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MK3 GT6 won’t come out of gear when stationary
johny replied to Welsh_7's topic in Gearbox & Overdrive
Hmmm I suppose Gareth could test the clutch operation by getting the back wheels off the ground and then with engine running get someone to operate the clutch while he checks how much drive is still getting to the wheels.... -
MK3 GT6 won’t come out of gear when stationary
johny replied to Welsh_7's topic in Gearbox & Overdrive
If none of that works its just possible the gear lever linkage is worn as that can do funny things... -
MK3 GT6 won’t come out of gear when stationary
johny replied to Welsh_7's topic in Gearbox & Overdrive
Wonder if the clutch is dragging and keeping torque on the gears so they dont want to separate? I take it you can slide it into neutral while still moving ok? -
Trouble is if ride height too low with standard spring the shock could bottom out which would make for a harsh ride!
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Well its a perfect fit in the tail pipe and Ive used it without the central plug because I think thatll be too restrictive. Just needs a good run now....
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Think this is very rough calc as you could have a very high CR but a low reading because the valves dont seal or the bore/piston rings are worn!
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Yes many people assume LT problem but really worth checking HT at coil output first to quickly narrow down the search....
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Its just that so much has been changed over the years by POs you dont really know what the original size thrusts were☹️ Not even sure all after market thrusts come stamped...
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In fact I reckon to lose 5 thou off a crank would require a huge mileage with numerous thrust changes or some kind of seizure. As the first is unlikely I would just confirm the crank thrust surface condition and fit the required size bearings...
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The trouble is I dont think you can know what the block was originally as the castings were all over the place in those days so they just machined em and then fitted what ever thrust was needed to get within tolerance. Believe there used to be even thicker thrust sizes available originally but no longer...
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Wow big difference in cost there! Im not sure even when crank was new standard size thrusts were always used as it depends on the block machining as well. Of course you have to inspect the bearing surfaces but if ok Ive got no problem using oversize thrusts...
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To the job properly you need a micrometer to measure up what youve got otherwise you have to put in known size new thrusts, measure the float and then if incorrect buy what you need...
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Plus as I found you dont know how much the existing thrusts have worn. If for example he has standard size but unworn ones then he needs only one 5 thou oversize thrust. However if theyre standards but worn then just replacing like for like might be sufficient...
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Anyway Ive reread the Mikes post and he did as Ive said, installed DTI so its plunger is pushed in slightly, zeroed the needle and pulled out the pulley. His reading of 0.32 is correct as the small dial started away from its zero and has now moved by an additional 0.32....
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No I was guessing that the DTI had been zeroed and then the pulley pushed in to measure its movement so the main needle would go anticlockwise and the small needle could start on say 2. Dont forget that you cant start your measuring with the DTI plunger at fully extended. You have to start with plunger pushed in a bit against the pulley so the small dial wont be on zero. Next you turn the big dial so the needle is at zero and then move the pulley...
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Yes I agree so looks like the second method I described was used and the reading depends on how many times the needle has gone round. From the first rough measurement with tape photo it could be 1.68mm....
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Yes seems like it needs a known name on it and then even if not genuine the real company would be on to the fakers....
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All depends how Mike did it😁 If he installed the DTI, zeroed and pulled pulley forwards needle will have gone clockwise and read 0.32. However if he zeroed and pushed pulley back needle will have gone anti clockwise and could be 0.68 or 1.68 or 2.68 up to 9.68 depending on where he started...
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It could be that or usually the DTI outer bezel can be rotated so the numbers move round. This allows you to attach the instrument in the operated position, turn the numbers so that the needle is at zero and then release whatever your measuring. Then the needle will go counter clockwise and you can read off its travel on the red numbers...
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Yes the little dial shows complete millimeters up to 10mm which is the full travel of the instrument...
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Whats happened to your diff? Usually they want a serviceable exchange unit as the gear wheels are very difficult/expensive to source..
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I was going to say it might have broken in initial build and the other bit fallen out even before it was first run...
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Ah maybe Im thinking of PI which of course is a different kettle of fish...