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johny

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Everything posted by johny

  1. Just checked a box Ive got in bits and the 3/4 hub has springs with length 13/32" but couldnt get the 1/2 ones out to compare...
  2. Looks like the more expensive spring goes on 1/2 but apart from length is one slightly beefier than the other?
  3. Are you sure about the springs Pete as it seems counter intuitive and certainly doesnt tie up with the photos on Rimmers...
  4. Looking at the sectional diagram of the gearbox the spring pockets of the 3/4 hub look deeper than the 1/2 so should have the longer springs. Perhaps you can confirm this by measuring their relative depths? This is also backed up by looking at the springs for sale at Rimmerbros whose diagram also shows a spacer at the bottom of each pocket but of course its pretty difficult to verify if you got one in there or not...
  5. Yes I think the shims are probably only needed as the springs weaken with age and then best to replace them. Cant remember with spring length but think the WSM shows correct set up...
  6. What cut in situ? Youve got to be so careful you dont nick the plastic bezel or even worse the door card😰
  7. Id do it nice and slowly, testing the hub operation frequently so as not to dismantle it without finding the cause! Nothing worse than having a pile of bits with no obvious problem😰
  8. The thing is its difficult to think of anything that would prevent the hub outer sleeve from engaging with the main gear. The synchro ring would have to be awfully out of round to keep the hub so far away that this was the result!
  9. Yes needs a bit of practice but quite doable. Might need needle nose pliers to hold the pin if youve got sausage fingers😁 Of course make sure the pin fits both handle and spindle holes before assembling...
  10. Sounds like a filter in the line to the pump would be a good idea....
  11. Yes or buy more gaskets from the usual suspects?
  12. Make sure the felt seal around the oil dipstick is good and doing its job👍
  13. I now try to refill my float chambers every week when the cars not in use. I have to do this with the manual lever on the pump but it helps stop gumming up...
  14. I think it would be the other way. If the hose is disconnected the pcv will open fully as it tries to maintain a slight vacuum but cant...
  15. In some cases new pumps have to have extra packers installed where the mount on the block so that their operating arm is moved away from the cam. This results in less pump pressure but to get the correct thickness of packer you really need to measure the fuel pressure...
  16. Of course, I was thinking 4 synchro...
  17. Scrapman do you have any idea of the symptoms you get it the 1/2 gear synchro inner hub is installed the wrong way round? Reading through old threads on the subject I see one poster had problems selecting 3/4 and the mainshaft had a longitudinal crack in it!
  18. So the selector hub was in first gear when you put the top cover back on? If so I guess the gear lever wasnt actually connected to the hub so of course the lever could move to the second position but you hadnt really moved the hub into engagement....
  19. The free to download workshop manual shows the cap and much more. Your cap should be ok once the pcv is working correctly👍
  20. Definitely try moving it back n forth as discussed🤞
  21. Probably not if the hub centre is the wrong way round or the synchro is jamming☹️
  22. Yes but will it do it in situ? If it goes into first then roughly the same force should be enough to push it into second (both use the same detent balls and springs)....
  23. Yes does sound that way and would increase vacuum in engine but is rocker box cap proper vented type as shown in manual?
  24. I take it Jonah has managed to get the sleeve to slide in to fully engage 1st so it should only need the same force to get back to 2nd?
  25. Well the synchro ring could jam and stop the sleeve engaging but why and how to stop it happening again is something else....
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