johny

Yes and you can always power up the oil pump with an electric drill when everything is assembled to ensure oil gets everywhere before starting up for the first time...

Yes the type of float Phil has are the unsinkable (solid) ones so the metal arms arent rivetted but embedded in them. There do have a couple of holes which look a bit like rivets though....

Heres one offering and although much more expensive than the plastic type the metal tube is stainless so you should never have problems again with the bolt rusting solidly inside it... James Paddock Limited - Triumph Stag, Spitfire, TR6, TR7, GT6, Vitesse, Herald Parts and Spares Specialists. FRONT TRUNION POLY BUSH KIT AXLE SET SPIT/GT6/HER/VIT (SUPERFLEX)(514191P)

The current drawn shouldnt be much more than the standard headlights (although of course the light produced is brighter) hence a dynamo will be able to power your halogen conversion just as well. A dynamo can produce a good output but just needs higher revs than an alternator to do it so for example fitting a high power electric radiator fan that will be needed in slow moving traffic might cause a problem. For you I think a better idea is to use relays and decent sized wires to power the headlights so taking load of the light switches and reducing cable volt drop...

I reckon both those grooves are from the oil seal because the sleeve was first used with the shamfer at the front and then because it was so worn a PO installed it the other way round. It looks as if it could continue to be used as its shown in the photo and thats actually the same way the manual indicates. However they are available new and any wear does mean theres more chance of the front seal leaking... As John says the sprocket looks pretty worn and it would be best to replace both of the sprockets and chain together. I would guess this engine has done some miles🤔

keep us informed of the findings as it all adds to the hive knowledge🙂

Yes I didnt mean put in thicker oil and forget it but if it does reduce the noise youd definitely know its time to plan a bottom end overhaul. Its a much cheaper and simpler job to replace the bearings than wait until the crank is damaged☹️

In my experience its the bearings not combustion chambers that are usually the first thing to show signs of wear in our Triumph engines and I read a recommendation once that on the sixes if the big ends and mains are changed at 40k and 70k miles respectively the crank will last almost indefinitely. Its true the mains dont wear evenly and one or two will be worse than the others but the bigends tend to be more equal so as I say I would expect to see a drop in oil pressure if they are the problem. I know youve recently changed the oil but how about doing it again but with a 20w-60 grade (about the thickest you can get once hot) to see if that makes a difference....

The thing is the oil pressure is good even at tickover when hot and I wouldnt expect that if the bearings were worn...

To be fair I think that float can be used either way up in different applications which could be a reason for it having two contact arms. In the Buckeye photo it is indeed installed the way you first had it...

Thanks John. Would a stainless exhaust be affected the same way do you think?

That is the same carb that was fitted to the 2L and is as shown in its manual. How about trying the new floats the other way up?

Rimmers good if you want to get a lot of stuff in one place (save on delivery?) but many of exactly the same items, if stocked🤔, can be bought cheaper elsewhere....

Yes the free to download Triumph workshop manual for Vitesse/GT6 shows the original float hinge plate also as flat...

yes I agree, I wouldnt buy it but as I have it already and it looks so cool....🤔

Testing the running engine oil pressure will be another useful test. I bought a little cheap gauge off ebay that once in a while after a run I screw into the block in place of the oil pressure switch to see whats going on...

As said previously, I would have thought if its the flywheel holding the clutch disengaged with the engine running must make some difference to the noise....

Be very careful you dont distort the hub flange as its soooo easily done. Another alternative might be to put the wheel back on and lower the car onto the ground and chock it so a socket can then be used on the nut...

Thanks. Ive heard of that for cast iron manifolds but stainless has a higher melting point so I thought it would ba able to withstand the increased temperature...

What about the risk of locals throwing rotten cabbages and tomatoes at you?

Ive been given some exhaust heat wrap tape and Im wondering if theres any point using it on the stainless downpipe of my Vitesse. It has the standard cast iron manifold so cant wrap that but would installing it after the flange reduce under bonnet heat/noise or will it just smoke, crisp up and disintegrate?

yes even Im not going to argue with you on changing those tyres Tim! You might want to get sets of summer and winter tyres up there as well 😁

Maybe thats just the thrust bearing pushing back against the clutch when you lever the crank backwards. Theres a spring in the slave cylinder that ensures theres no play in the mechanical linkage otherwise your pedal would be very floppy to start with. Your crank is probably very free so this force is enough to push it forward...

I think the 10% + 1 mph margin allowed in the UK does mean though that calibration in modern instruments really is rarely an issue....

yes theyre not stretch bolts so if undamaged can go back in...