johny

Yes when you see the standard of installations/mods on the car you'll be able to get a better feeling for the quality of previous work and corresponding confidence in it...

I think it was and still is bodging! Thats to say using an easier 'repair' because the correct one needs skill and/or equipment thats not available or more expensive🤪

If the ride height difference is verified there must be some reason for it and I would have thought the rear spring might be the culprit. It could have lost tension one side or have a broken leaf? The door should be a separate issue and that can be corrected by adjusting its hinges and lock catch plate. However I would get the former problem done first as it might make some difference to door alignment....

Well more liquid, fractionally more compressibility - especially if silicone🤔 Think Id prefer the usual battery/servo arrangement...

Like most after market stuff nowadays there is only one manufacturer (either here or abroad) as there isnt the demand to make it profitable for multiple companies to get involved. This means prices and worse quality are fixed but at least the items are available😊 However saying this it is still worth shopping around as there are differences in prices at different suppliers because by buying wholesale they get the items at a discount and then decide how much of that to pass on....

What does the installation look like? Battery held properly in place on a battery tray or even box bolted into place in the boot? The connection lugs at each each nicely crimped or soldered on? It might say on the cable its size or you can measure the outside diameter and look it up to find the cross sectional area of the copper inside and so the current carrying capacity. The ultimate test of course is if the cable or any of its connections get warm during a good crank of the engine😲

Therell be lots of things for the new owner to check, thats all part of the fun but you do have to pace yourself😊

Is the door bar still imperial then😮

Yes looks like the battery must be in the boot👍

Yes its the same size as the bar used in house internal door handles so you can remove one, do the oil change and put the bar back in the door before anyone realises👍

Actually that extra weight could be pretty handy in our cars so he might have the right idea😁

Surprisingly the Lucas vac advance on a Vitesse (presumably similar for four cylinders) can advance up to 26º so some advance at idle is to be expected👍

Heres the proper way to do it (think its real)... Oh!!my god!! This guy is using bricks to repair the car - Bing video

Cant be the oil and unlikely to be anything you did changing the oil so its a coincidence. Could it be a carb affecting two cylinders? Spark plug wet of cylinder(s) thats not firing?

Have I got this correct, your basically making a TR5? Your want a 2.5TC engine to mate to a TR4 gearbox so what has the fine spline clutch got to do with the set up? As said your Vitesse probably had a Vitesse flywheel fitted to suit an uprated 'small chassis' gearbox and clutch. Now you would probably be best off with a 2.5 flywheel as it is designed to work the 'large chassis' gearboxes and clutch like the TR's....

Or could the tracking be miles out?

Also they can be wrapped in-situ (although a bit fiddly) so you can always do that at a later date if theres a problem...

Not much as its main use is at cruising speeds when it works to improve fuel economy although it is recommended to disconnect it when setting the dynamic timing. The workshop manual has the figures for checking with a vacuum gauge if its operating correctly....

I can still get Accuspark (or their look-alikes) for about 20 pounds delivered in the UK from Amazon. Obviously not for my car but as we've said the sensor can just be swopped over...

Isnt that the way they do it on moderns now👍

Whatever you use Ive found the stronger the colour the better so you can more easily confirm the overflow pipe is full, as it should always be if it feeds into an bottle👍

The important thing is to have something in the system and change it as specified😁

I dont think theres any engine now without some aluminium, even our engines had aluminium thermostat covers so think pretty much any antifreeze will do. The labels usually mention aluminium....

When Ive tested my accuspark units Ive never managed to get them to stay 'open' although maybe thats because Ive used a multimeter on resistance or Ive not been precise enough with the magnet but it certainly seems like a pulse...

The problem with electronic ignition is that the open time for the electronics is just a pulse so you cant hold 12v on the coil outlet for any length of time like you can with points when open. Then I know some units have variable dwell (closed time) so dont know what effect that will have on any testing....