johny

I think its more a case of rattle cans having become more environmentally friendly and so useless. This has quietly happened with a lot of products and theres not a lot we can do about it except return items for refunds - do check what it says on the can in that miniscule print first though....

yes strange why some models got a relay and others didnt (penny pinching?). For the current drawn and a sliding electrical connection should have a relay....

Maybe item 24 as shown on page 5.232V of the manual?

Vitesse doesnt use a relay so this is a classic case of high resistance somewhere in the circuit. Enough current can flow to operate one horn at a time but try both and the volt drop is too much so neither works. First place to look is the earth strap on the steering rack...

Think theres only one short cable for all models its the long one that varies and reckon if yours was shorter it would pull the compensator to the right angle. Try to measure yours with string and compare?

I wonder if youve got the wrong cross cable as there are different lengths available and all look very similar...

If youre in a rush Rimmers show as having all the valves in stock...

Think only very specific greases (silver based?) are actually conductive but on fixed electrical connections its not necessary as the main advantage is to stop the ingress of moisture/air and reduce corrosion. The grease will be moved out of the way as the connection is made so allowing good conductivity however the same is the case with a moving connection like the horn push so although I think a little is a good idea the track itself will still become exposed...

Thats exactly it. If you want to run cooler under those conditions youve got improve one of the things in my previous list...

Only one piston per slave cylinder so they have to slide to apply equal force to both shoes. Then there should be two retaining sprung clips on the other side of the backplate for each slave and they have to be installed the right way up to facilitate sliding. All in the manual....

Unfortunately its not as simple as that Dave as you can have no thermostat but if your rad is knackered or too small, airflow restricted, cooling system not clean or engine not running right and producing excess heat your car will still run hot. However yes IF you have excess cooling capacity in your system (unlikely in a standard 50 year old Triumph) a lower setting thermostat will keep the temperature down. Be aware though this is more likely to happen on days when the ambient air temperature is lower (winter) as of course thats when your cooling system has increased heat transfer capacity and the thermostat can start to close to reduce flow through the radiator....

yes you could try it in your petrol tank and its very likely that apart from the small(?) flame out of the filler the match would go out once dropped inside* * I claim no responsibility for the accuracy of this information and will not be held liable for any damage or injury caused by anyone stupid enough to test it.

yes remember the old fire triangle: you need fuel, oxygen and heat for combustion? Difficult for any liquid or solid to get into good enough contact with oxygen to burn so the most efficient method is to atomise or pulverise each respectively and then ignite them...

If the crank thrust bearing surface has been reground then obviously thicker thrust washers must be used so if the rebuilder got this wrong the gap could have been big enough to allow the bearings to come out. However testing for correct end float after assembly is something pretty basic....

Yes that doesnt sound good and is very typical of a loss of thrust bearings. However how they can fall out of a recently rebuilt engine is a mystery as you would expect the clearance to have been within spec which should prevent them being able to move... The good news is that if the crank hasnt been damaged by contact with the block (rather than against the thrusts) you can install new bearings with the engine in-situ. The sump has to come off and then the rear main bearing cap so that after inspecting the crank running surface new thrusts of the appropriate size can be slotted in👍

yes is it possible its losing the ignition repeatedly somehow everytime the engine rocks under acceleration (less movement so no problem when just free revving) and then regains it to do the same thing again. Check all engine electrical connections including earthing?

I think also that as time went on they wanted the engines to run hotter to improve emissions and of course the easiest way to do this is use a thermostat that modulates at a higher point. I believe with modern engines this is now so critical that electronic controls are used to keep engine temperature within the closest possible limits...

Maybe on intial operation of the handbrake there is sliding and then its only when the tension really starts to bite as both shoes contact the drum that the pivot spigots grind the slots in the backplate? However as soon as the handbrake is released the spigots should pop back into their pockets in the slave leaving it free to slide wherever it wants....

That looks correct to me Paul so you can just pull out the bottom two clips plus the side ones and the panel will come back out👍

Yes a bit o weetybix required methinks (well and maybe some penetrating oil left for a day or so)...

But Colin the panel is fixed to that bottom angle bracket (either with screws or those clips) as each comes with two matching holes in them (see photo and Rimmers item)! If the angle goes on the outside of the panel the fixings have to be put in from the inside and that can only be done by fitting the angle to the board before installing it leaving you the awkward job of doing up the screws that attach the angle to the diff cover plate😲

Interesting. I suppose Trigolf will know whether it should be screws or those clips by the size of the holes in the bulkhead...

Strange, are the holes in the metal bulkhead slotted then like the fixings for the dash under card?

In reality I wonder if theres ever much sliding of the slave under handbrake action. Its a lot to ask that as the pivot rotates and pushes the front shoe into contact with the drum it then starts to push the slave backwards while at the same time the pivot itself is being pulled hard against the backplate by the cable. I think its more likely our handbrakes only really use the leading shoe (explains why theyre weak) so the pivot/slave never moves and thats why we get the wear slots in a fixed spot....

= anything that clamps the ends of outer sheath of an operating cable and if done up too tightly may crush it so restricting the movement of the inner...