chrishawley

Ditto. Too bulky a seal means that the tailgate doesn't sit nicely and it fights the latch. So getting an appropriate seal would be a major advantage. This can involve trial and error as to what suits any particular car. It's quite hard to glue anything to nylon. So replacement block may be helpful. Repros generally ok even if not quite the same shape as original Other little niggly things to check might be: The latch mechanism itself can get weak or sticky. Worth removing and giving a good lubricate. Also the screw that holds the handle on should have a spring under the head and should be mobile, not done up tight. Nylon striker block should be attached by two No.10 unf screws in the captive (adjustable) plate. Ineffective replacement with self tappers is sometimes found.

End of my particular part of the story is: Fitted new coupling. From the before and after is was then visibly evident how little fan rotation was being supplied by the old unit. Misfiring, which was the main issue in the first place, now resolved. And no creep on the temperature gauge. Learning point: Temperature gauges may not inform much about absolute temperatures but any change over time is probably significant.

Bring on the the thread drift!!!! It is now well known that all the major social media and tech platforms harvest information about the end user (you!) and then sell that information to other parties. The other parties then use that information in whatever way suits their desires; mostly those desires being to sell the end user stuff they don't need or to mamipulate the opinions of the user on matter of soical concerrn. The technical name for all of this is 'Surveilance Capitalism'. Even if you don't use Facebook (for example) that's not the end on the story because FB pays other sites to harvest data for them covertly. Solutions are not easy but two simple steps which help are: *Use a freestanding browser such as FireFox rather than Chrome or Safari. * Use a free standing search engine such as DuckDuckGo or Startpage rather than Google. Much more one could say, but I'll stop there lest trying to be informative turns into a rant.

Is your motor a 14W (round body) or DR3 (square)? And dash mounted switch/washer pump? But your situation is a real puzzle. But I'll have a punt at a couple of ideas to see if they stimulate any other, better, thoughts. One culprit for erratic wiper faults is the five-pin block connector at the motor. The quality of reproduction items can be truly appalling and the females just don't grip the male spades well enough for reliable connections. But that wouldn't easily explain a not-stopping motor. A weak earth (black wire) might be a possibility since in order to stop dead both sides of the motor have to be shorted to earth. Without a dead stop the gear wheel could over-run the stop position and keep going round. How likely? Not all that much. The dash rotary switch itself may be a culprit. Never had one of these apart myself but on experience of similar ones it's perfectly possible after 5 decades that the tracks and contacts are heavily deteriorated. Not sure there's any answer here, but maybe it'll get some thought going.

It can sometimes be more informative when assessing total free play in the steering to do it in reverse: In particular. Jack the front of the car so both wheels are just off the ground then tug the right hand wheel in and out by a gnats (that's a British Standard gnat, not a new-fangled metric gnat). Even a tiny movement of the road wheel should result in very marked rotation of the steering wheel. If there is any degree of lag at all then that's indicative of an unwanted situation. With the bonnet up and a ruler (or similar pointer) taped to the steering wheel it becomes a one man job (observing the pointer through the windscreen). As mentioned above, for a car that's 'all over the place' an essential check is the security of the pinch bolt between up and lower masts (right in the depths of the footwell so often has to be done by feel alone). This needs to be seriously tight - the WSM method is 'as tight as it will go before the allen key begings to bend'.

Sorry, that might be misleading. They're American so is only an example of the possibilities. I can't find a record of who actually did mine.

But going right back to the top: I've never seen reproductions of these legends for sale anywhere. So the only way to get a reproduction I can think of is to try a model makers company that specialises in bespoke waterslide decals. I did this for a sticker on a non-Triumph once and it was a laborious and non-inexpensive process. The result was good though. Possibly worth a look at https://www.bedlamcreations.com/custom-waterslide-decals/ for more of an idea on this.

Another go with the picture. Is that better? That includes 'car' , screen' , 'off' I've never seen the blue and red before - every day's a learning day! Another question following from your picture: Are the legends 'car' , screen' , 'off' embosed into the plastic or are they just decals applied to the flush face of the plastic?

To narrow this down a bit: Are the ones you require as per the picture below? And, do you have the early black dashboard or the later veneer one. The escutcheon for the heater controls changed on the 'face-lift' Mk4s cockpit7.jp2

Ahhhhh. The Vitesse. How I wish I had one again. But piggy bank says not poss. As a part of getting to 'know' them one aspect with which to get familiar is the panel fit and alignment. A skilled matter to get right. Just for example the red car below was sold at auction: All lovely and shiny BUT the bonnet doesn't fit well. Compare with a period photo and just how prim the panel fit is. Plenty of other things to get to know but I'd put panel alignment as a significant factor in the 'what's it worth' equation.

Does it look rather like the attached photograph? Worth getting many opinions of this: But just to get the ball rolling with a couple of ideas: • Keying: One cause is lack of keying between one or more coats. Even if it's primer over the same primer it still requires keying. Conversely, keying with too fine a grade of wet'n'dry gives such a smooth surface that it's akin to not keying at all. At risk of making a huge generalisation a 400 grade WND is commonly used. • Cellulose behaves very differently to 2-pack. 2K hardens by chemical reaction so a 2K primer, even under faily cool ambient conditions, will be near fully hardened within a day or two. Cellulose drys by evaporation and although it may 'skin over' fairly quickly full thickness drying can takes days or even weeks (depending on ambient conditions). If then overcoated the settling and shrinkage the will proceed even slower rate. • I like 182 for certain situations but I have had adverse occurences with it. Having applied a thick coat (which I though was dry) it got 'woken up' by the thinners in subsequent coats and crazed severely over a couple of weeks. Might you consider moving over to 2K?

Yup, same thing with Halogen H4's on Spit/GT6. Eventually sussed that 7 inchers are not universal 'fit all' - and the lug arrangements may be slightly different depending on vehicle (e.g. Jag XJ6 or Mini). Suspect many sellers are unaware of these subtleties.

Imagine maybe you've got this sorted by now. In case not: Yes, light to remove, firmer to replace is correct. To replace does need light pressing, not by hand alone. Doesn't/shouldn't need a hydlauic press as such but a bench vice should do it. But , as ever, if using a vice as a low power press, careful attention that force is applied squarely and to the appropriate faces of the work.

More Hmmmmm. Resolving this could be easy-peasy or longer than a bit of string. " Suspect Suspensions Sussed" is indeed a very useful grounding. 2.05 and 1.38 degrees positive (presumably static unladen condition) while not grossly incorrect are possibly off specification. With the proviso that static unladen mesaurements are only a rough guide to the true measurements that will be observed under the loaded condition, then normal would be 2.0 to 3.0 degrees positive each side. Given one shim is about 1 degree an extra pair of shims on the right could be tried. As an aside, I recently found chapter and verse from Triumph about laden v. unladen measurements. The GT6/Vit WSM is specific that the suspension is designed, specified and set to the laden condition; and unladen measurements are only for checking when the geometry has previously been determined as correct. Expanding on Casper, above, caster setting is more critical than camber: Incorrect camber setting carries an implication that caster may not be correct. Again see SSS. Two further thoughts: 1) Front suspension geometry has to be considered along with the rear. Incorrect rear toe-in can have really nasty effects on handling not least 'sidestepping' on bumps. 2) On poor handling I've been caught out (repeatedly!) by simple mechanical factors such as steering column bushes too tight, mast pinch bolt insufficiently tight, lower steering coupling failed, looseness of components, and (many times!!) out of true wheels and 'the-use-by-date-was-somewhere-in-the-Jurassic-period' knackerd tyres. Here's hoping you get an easy solution.

One on ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265694732004?hash=item3ddca3dee4:g:~QMAAOSwx5Jigl6t But just to check: It is the hinge mechanism that's failed rather the center clamp going missing in action?

Expanding on the above.... On the Mk1 the lip of the tub (i.e. where the oval holes are) carried a quite chunky, round, rubber seal the ends of which were tucked under the b-post cappings. At some point (?mk3) this got replaced with a simpler plastic U-channel edging. Thus, the quarter trim panel tucks under the lip and is secured with self tapping screws, on cup washers, into the web of the inner wing, and b-post. If Newton know their stuff the reverse of the milboard should have puched out holes where the screws should go. For a good appearance the screws should be chrome (or stainless usually has to do) raised countersunk (rsk) and not zinc plated pan head. I'd be interested to know if NC have punched out the holes for fitment.

Cup washers come in countersunk and rolled forms. Bresco would be worth a look. https://www.bresco.com/acatalog/Cup_Washer.html

I only got a working knowledge of this a year ago (with a lot of hand-holding) so my experience is not that great. But here goes...... An excellent read around all these issue is three articles entitled Suspension Secrets Sussed in the Aug, Sept, Oct 1993 issues of the Courier. Go to 'Courier' icon on main club website and search by year. The attached screen grab spells out the process of caster adjustment. Caster can't be measured directly; it has to be calculated from the change in the camber angle as the road wheel is turned in and out by steering. Formula attached. It then goes like this: • Initially settle vehicle in level, straight ahead condition • Turn wheel to be adjusted 20 degrees off straight ahead (T1) and measure camber (C1) • Turn wheel 20 degrees in the opposite direction (T2) and measure camber (C2) The formula then gives K, caster, for the wheel in question. Or, as Clive pointed out, since 20in 20 out is the standardd for measuring caster the equation simplies to Caster angle = 1.5 x camber angle change. A digital inclinometer makes measuring the camber change easier but old fashioned trig works too. OR You get a outfit that has a laser alignment bed to measure/adjust it all for you. But apart from ££s that can have the pitfall that young operators may not be familiar with the particulars on a classic. I hope I've got that all right, but I'm open to correction.

Puts me in mind of the woes I had with my GT6. To simplify a long story: After rebuild, I had the suspension shimming set up by 'competant professionals'. But at any reasonable speed the road behaviour was twitchy with poor directional stability. And worse with increased tyre pressures. Much investigation (and Forumizing) later eventually nailed that down to castor not only being wrong (too little) but unequal between the sides. Now fixed. How likely is it that PO diligently assesed every aspect of steering and suspension geometry? And including in that, the rear? Perhaps not very. As an aside: I recently got given a copy of David Bastow's 1970s book on suspension design. I reckon I understand about 5% of it at best, given the complicated maths involved. But it's made made much more respectful of adherance to OE specifications and much less respectful of glib simplifications in wwwland.

Excellent advice all round. That gives me a 12-point plan to proceed systematically. One further Q. What about the rubber boots on the master cylinders? Is there a handy wheeze for getting these to seal and stay in place?

Ah! The nightmare world of GT6 door seals!!!! I can find credible authenticity photographs for Mk1 and Mk3, but not Mk2. But both Mk1 and Mk3 had the P-seal extending along the underside of the roof for about 3 inches before turning down the screen frame and terminating at about the level of the bonnet catch plates. I suppose it's a reasonable assumption that Mk2 would have been the same. The main door seals can be highly problematic. The original main seal on the GT6 (and Spitfire for that matter) was an ingenious, very flexible, multi-flap seal, but I've never seen a reproduction of it. I don't know what Rimmers would supply as this part but it could be a generic form of the foam, bubble type, side seal (albeit on furflex). These can be too fat and obstruct closing of the door (near the door latch where the gap is the least) or push the drop glass out in the top rear corner. So worth eyeing it up carefully before fitting.

Ok. Engine overheating problems now solved due to new viscous coupling. Problem now is driver overheating - generally hot in cabin area but left leg gets paticularly scorchy. So, materials and methods: • Materials: What could be recommended in terms of insulation materials for bulkhead/tunnel? So many adverts all with exorbitant claims. What's the practical experience with what works at a sensible price? For example, how would a couple of layers of Wickes finest 'bubble' type insulation stack up against sophisticated products at 6 times the price? • Methods: Any tips on methods that work? I suspect that heat transmission from the exhaust down pipe is quite a contributor. Anything to be said for exhaust wrap? heat sheilds? Open to any suggestions of the basis of engage brain before lightening wallet. THNX

Ho hum. TIG welder died on the job. It was a Chinese generic same as the photo only dressed up with different branding (if you can call Chinese generic a 'brand'). At £400, 3 years ago, with foot pedal, it really was cheap so in that respect I can't really complain. But when I think about it it it probably hasn't done more than 40 hours of duty - so that £10/hour which doesn't sound so good. On the strength of recommendations on the Forum I've gone for R-tech. Well impressed. Price reasonable, 3-year return-to-base warranty, knowledgable sales personage, 24-hour delivery and overall a much better machine; much more conrollable. Oh well, buy cheap and buy twice, I suppose.

Not 100% sure of this but.....Did Spitfire (inertia reel) seatbelts ever retract fully? I thought the free length was so that the buckle could be parked into the stowage clip at the top of the b-post. Could be quite wrong about this and I guess the stowage clips are missing from a great many Spitfires.

Thanks. Got me a definite diagnosis regarding the viscous coupling: On removal it was evident that it was pretty much non-operative. On replacement tickover rpm notably reduced (=good). Rad flushed with 10% HCl but crud was minimal, if any. So possibly hot running problems are principally due to lack of fan. Kempston Rads reckon they can squeeze an upgrade into the Dolly 1300 rad. So might consider that as one future option. Thanks again.