Nigel Clark

Owen is a top man for Triumph interior trim. I re-covered the dash top crash pad on my GT6 with his vinyl. Excellent quality and very helpful. Nigel

I have had a PJ multi-vehicle policy for my modern car and classics for about 10 years. The premium is always competitive, though I've needed to claim twice. Once was an RTA which wasn't my fault (complete recovery made from the other party), and more recently a fire. On both occasions PJ were very helpful. I'm a satisfied, long term customer. Nigel

Check all of the above, as Pete wisely suggested. One other thought... Could the slave cylinder be loose in its slot in the backplate? Check that the retaining clips are present and correctly fitted, replace with new if in doubt. Also ensure the slot in the backplate where the slave cylinder fits hasn't worn to cause excess free movement. Nigel PS: worn rear trunnion bushes or play in wire wheel splines could also cause such a mystery 'thump', though neither would explain the excess brake dust.

Please could I ask if anyone who can recommend a windscreen fitter who knows how to properly fit a front screen to a GT6 Mk3? These are quite tricky because of the stainless steel trim that fits on the rubber. It's a wide stainless channel, much like fitted on the Stag and quite different from the simple plastic chrome effect strips that press in to earlier Spitfire/GT6/TR screen rubbers. Since the car was resprayed a couple of years ago, it's had a cheapo plastic copy of the original stainless trim which doesn't fit well, spoiling the look of an otherwise very presentable car. I've managed to get an original stainless trim set and really want to get this finishing touch on the little GT6. Very few modern screen fitters have either the experience or the wish to tackle this job. I knew an old chap in Rugby who could do these but he's retired now. I'm happy to have a mobile fitter come to me or to travel to his premises. As I'm in Market Harborough, ideally the fitter should be based in Leicestershire or Northamptonshire. Thank you in advance for any recommendations you can give. Nigel PS: I've also posted this on the TR Register Forum.

Not just a modern thing, twas ever thus. I had a torque wrench go missing with a 'mate' back in the Seventies. Nigel

Hi Richard, Some larger TSSC local area groups offer tool loan to their members. Also some generous well-equipped club members are prepared to lend tools or even help. Nigel

Sorry, maybe I'm being obtuse... But I can't see how a 6 hole hub puller would fit on a Triumph 4 hole hub on more than 2 out of the 4 studs. Might as well use a 2 leg puller with all the attendant risk of distorting the flange. If the hub is tight enough to need a puller, borrow or buy the proper Triumph hub puller. It will be much cheaper in the long run. Nigel

Take care with a 3 leg puller. If the hub is really tight, the flange can be distorted by the legs of the puller. That's why I like the factory spec Churchill hub puller, even with Rotoflex hubs. Others may disagree and say this approach is overkill. But there is simply no risk of damage using the factory puller. Nigel

No idea if the bonnet was ever changed... 52 years is a long time! Presumably, as Mk2 parts ran out, the Mk3 was built with the later parts we would expect. Like the front valence, the bonnet is rusty enough to be original. But there's no way to tell if it may have been changed earlier in the car's life. Nigel

Hi Colin L, Glad we got that sorted! Hi Colin (Scrapman), Just checked my latest Mk3 and the bonnet doesn't have alloy pods for the side lights/indicators. The front valence is certainly Mk1/2 though. It's also got a fly-off handbrake and Herald/Vitesse style hood catches. I had a '68 Mk3 as a teenager and it had a normal handbrake, TR6 style hood catches and a normal Mk3 valence. How I wish I'd kept that one! Nigel

So to finish my ramble, I suspect my very early Mk3 has a Mk2 valence because the factory was still using up old stock when my Spitfire Mk3 came down the track. Nigel

Hi Colin, Sorry but I think you have the photos the wrong way round. Part no. 807136 is the Mk1/2 valance, which has extra slots toward the outer ends, which I assume are for the low bumper mountings on the Mk1/2 cars. Part no. 811676 is for the Mk3 and doesn't have these slots as the bumper is of course higher on the Mk3. Interestingly (or not depending on how much of an anorak you wish to be), my 1967 Spit Mk3 has the earlier valance fitted. My car is about commission number 1,000, so quite early, and has the earlier style of front valance. It's rusty enough that I can believe it's original from the factory! When John Fairey (TSSC staff member and fellow Mk3 owner) greeted me at the TSSC Open Day last weekend, his first comment on seeing my Spitfire for the first time was 'why has your Mk3 got those extra holes in the front valance'. So to answer Brett's question, there is a difference between these front valances and part no. 811676 without the extra slots is correct for a Mk3 (at least if it's not a very early one). But either valance should fit okay on a Mk3. Sorry to ramble on so much but hope this helps. Nigel

+1 for all the above. Welcome! As for containers, plastic trays from Chinese takeaways are great for smaller stuff like studs and bolts. Plastic pet litter trays are cheap and useful for storing or cleaning larger stuff like the oil pump or timing gears. Clean everything scrupulously, preferably three times over! Paraffin is a useful cleaning fluid as it dissolves oily dirt and leaves a thin film of oil after drying so components don't rust so easily. That said, store stripped out engine components somewhere dry. Consider spraying any parts likely to be stored for more than a few weeks with WD40. If you need advice during the rebuild, just ask. Nigel

Though not absolutely necessary, I've found the Churchill design hub puller is useful to push the Rotoflex outer axle shafts back through the hub bearings when replacing the rubber couplings. Nigel

You won't regret going to multi-electrode plugs. Bosch or NGK, both are good. Nigel

I saw those and wondered but wasn't brave enough to try them. I've ordered this from a UK supplier: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WIX-24037-WIX-Filter-Adapter-Stud/352495933120?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 However, it's not great... I've paid a bit more than getting them from the USA... I thought from Wellingborough (20 miles away), it should get here soon but it's showing delivery on 24th December now the order has been placed. Is anyone else interested? I could order a batch from the USA for interested forum members to share. No profit for me, just the cost of the adapter including freight etc from the USA plus postage from me via Royal Mail. Please PM me if you're after one of these adapters. The filters are easy to get hold of here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Alfa-Romeo-Lancia-Seat-Mann-Oil-Filter-Spin-On-Type-Service-Engine/292799773590?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Nigel PS: Or perhaps I could suggest the Club Shop buy a batch from the US?

How loose is the stud in the retapped hole? If it's still fairly tight, not too wobbly, I would use Loctite. If it's not so secure, try Araldite as it will fill the gap better, but go for the standard version (not fast cure) and give it plenty of time. It will be stronger in the long run. Nigel

That's exactly my experience! But I can't tell the difference between 4 electrode Bosch and 3 electrode NGK. Both show similar benefits over standard plugs. Nigel

Thank you all for your replies and helpful advice. I've ordered a Mann 714/2 filter and an adapter. Will let you know how much of a difference they make. Nigel

I've fitted BUR6ET to my GT6 and TR6 (they have similar heat range as the standard single electrode plugs specified for our Triumph engines). Also tried Bosch multi-electrode WR78. All give smoother idling and sharper pick up on acceleration with both engines. The multi-electrode plugs will also last for at least 20k miles and never need the gaps adjusting. Nigel

Hi Kevin, That's good advice, thank you, which I will follow. Having said that, I'd still prefer to deal with the root cause of the problem, and prevent the oil from draining back. Call me fussy if you like... The sound of crank bearings rattling is complete anathema to me! Nigel

Thank you Colin. With my Spit Mk3, there's a period of crankshaft rattling before the green oil light goes out after start up. It's probably only 10 seconds but compared to Triumph 6 cylinder engine with a spin off filter conversion, it seems like an age! As the filter is mounted upside down on the 4 cylinder engines, there's bound to be drain back without any non-return valve. Call me an over-sensitive soul, but I can't listen to a crankshaft in distress! Nigel

Go for the simplicity of a magnetic trigger electronic ignition, as it fits inside the distributor with only two wires to connect. Pertronix, Aldon Ignitor, Accuspark and magnetic Lumenition types are all available for the Spitfire. Accuspark is the least expensive. Some have reported reliability problems with Accuspark but I've had one on my Scimitar GTE for 4 years/20k miles and no sign of a problem. Whichever version you use, the benefits are as Iain notes above. Also consider upgrading to Magnecor HT leads and multi-electrode spark plugs e.g. NGK BUR6ET. Once you've set the timing with a strobe, you can forget about maintaining the ignition system almost for ever! Nigel

Thank you again Clive. If you find you have a spare adapter, please let me know. Nigel

Thank you Clive. Is the thread for the adapter really unf? Or could it be bsp, much easier to find? Nigel