Nigel Clark

I have the club shop prototype front cowl and side valences. My GT6 was used to check how they fitted back when I was club manager. So far, no cracks after 10+ years and plenty of miles, but maybe I'm lucky. Nigel

You're right, a shroud in front of the rad is essential to direct airflow to the rad core. The original cardboard ones sag and can make things worse. Best option is the metal version sold by the club shop (and others). Nigel

I'm pretty confident in the water temp gauge on my GT6, having checked various points in the cooling system with a digital laser thermometer. The oil cooler is fitted between the chassis rails, just behind the anti-roll bar which gives a bit of protection to the matrix. So below and slightly behind the rad. The top right corner of the cooler is visible in the photo of my rad shroud, at about the 7 o'clock position. And from experience with two different engines in my GT6, it does help maintain oil pressure when pressing on in hot weather. There's an oil thermostat fitted so the oil warms up reasonable quickly and isn't too cool in winter weather. Nigel

Other minor cooling improvements as follows... - Fitting the factory shape spoiler used on late Mk3s and late Spitfires directs more air through the rad at high speeds. Impact on cooling is marginal but it helps. - An oil cooler will keep oil pressure up at high speed in hot weather. Nigel

Any debris has to pass through the rad core before it can get into the shroud on the back of my GT6 rad. In my experience, very little debris is able to get through. I've tried electric fans blowing and sucking (which is a very tight fit). The original cooling system works fairly well when in good condition. The only way I've been able to improve it is with the shroud on the back of the rad. After 15 years, I've no doubt that it works. Nigel

Building the shroud was an experiment, but an experiment that worked! The engine keeps cooler with the shroud than without. With an electric fan, it was much worse.

I started by making a cardboard mock up of the shroud, held together with masking tape to allow for adjustment. When the cardboard version fitted properly, I took it apart so each part became a template for cutting 1.6mm alloy sheet. The necessary bends were formed by hand. The various pieces of the shroud were then pop riveted together. It attached to the mounting lugs on each side of the radiator. There's a cutout at the top to clear the water pump boss. I fitted self adhesive foam insulation strip to help seal the shroud to the back of the rad. Hope this is some help. Nigel

Here's a photo of the shroud on the back of my GT6 radiator. Nigel

I spent a long time one hot summer about 15 years ago trying to work out how to keep the engine cool. Briefly as I can... - Airflow through the radiator core is the most important factor. - An electric fan shrouds the radiator and this can make overheating worse. - The plastic engine driven fan is pretty good. - Building a shroud from alloy sheet around the back of the radiator too enclose the engine driven fan helps a lot. All the suction from the fan then draws air correctly through the radiator core. With the original engine driven fan and my home-built alloy shroud, my GT6 keeps it's cool in any UK summer. Even the heat wave last year didn't cause overheating, and that was with a recently fitted a 2.5 litre engine which was still tight and running in. I will try to post a photo of the shroud. Nigel

If you paint the bumpers black now, it won't prevent you having them re-chromed later as/when funds allow. Painting will also protect the base steel, making future re-chroming easier. So go ahead, paint them black now. See if you like the look, there's nothing to lose but a bit of time and the cost of the paint. Nigel

Thank you Chris. That clears up the present questions. At last in my mind... Nigel

I see what you mean. The PDF table on the website states 'Revised as of 02/2020'. I've just pulled out a copy 'Revised as of 1/9/18' and it looks the same. Suggest you take it up with CoM. Nigel

The insurance values are updated annually, or used to be. You can download the latest value chart as a PDF here: https://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/uploaded_files/20 Insurance Panel Values Web .pdf Nigel

I have an earlier version of that glass filter. Bought it from the Club Shop and fitted to my GT6 many years ago. Still works fine, and so far it's unaffected by unleaded/ethanol. I'm going to watch it carefully when we switch from E5 to E10. Nigel

I've got a glass filter on my GT6, though it doesn't seem to collect much debris. As has been said, the mesh of these glass filters is not as fine as the disposable plastic type with paper filter inside. I've never found SU or Stromberg carbs to be terribly sensitive to fine sediment. The glass filters can remove small rust flakes etc coming through from the tank and in my experience, that's good enough. Usually any really fine sediment collects in the bottoms of the float chambers and has no discernible effect on how the engine runs. The Weber 38DGAS fitted to my Scimitar is a different story. Any fine sediment sediment getting into the carb soon blocks the idle passages, causing lumpy tickover and hesitant progression. It's necessary to strip the carb and blow through the idle circuits with compressed air to clear the muck. I've fitted two plastic/paper element filters to the Scimitar and that keeps it running well. I change them every year. Based on this experience, I surmise that SU and Stromberg carbs don't need fine filtration, as there are no fine fuel passages in their design. Webers and presumably Solexes as fitted to some Heralds and early Vitesse 6s benefit from fine filtration of the fuel. Nigel

Wow! And it's in Rugby, dangerously nearby for me. But I have too many Triumphs already. Nigel

I've used the latest version of POR15 (it's the ethanol resistant version). It works well and can seal pinholes. Anything more than a pinhole will probably need expert brazing or welding. Nigel

To feed hot water through the inlet manifold then onwards to the heater. Looks much smarter than the old one on my GT6! Or does it flow in the other direction? Stainless bling always good. Nigel

I've had the same on my GT6. It was definitely the steering joint at the rack, cured by tightening the clamp bolt. Nigel

I had the same problem with the pinion nut on my Scimitar GTE a few years ago, so I feel your pain. Have you already dosed it repeatedly with penetrating oil, Plus Gas or the like (WD40 isn't much help with stubborn nuts)? Here are three suggestions that helped me: - Trying to tighten a fraction before undoing can sometimes help. - Use the socket with a shorter extension (say about 12 inches) and hit the end of extension bar hard with a big hammer to start the nut by shocking it. - Last resort, try a bit of heat by playing a blowlamp carefully over the nut. Good luck. Nigel

If you have a problem with something bought from the TSSC, suggest you call Martin in the club shop on Monday. But fitting the front seal will push the cover back a bit, as Dave says. Nigel

My experience at a local post office when my Scimitar GTE qualified for historic status two years ago was exactly as Richard describes, except I didn't have to pay and claim a refund.. Try again at another post office perhaps. Nigel

Hi Richard, I can't comment on that feedback. When a car is advertised for restoration on eBay, it's best not to expect too much... However, I do feel sympathy for Mark, he has done a lot for Triumph enthusiasts with his recreation of the Le Mans Spitfire team. Having to step back from Jigsaw due to ill health must have been hard to take. I simply wish well for Mark and Jo. Nigel

I don't how many forum members are aware that Mark and Jo Field, formerly of Jigsaw Triumph, now have an eBay shop. I stumbled across it while browsing eBay and trying not to buy stuff I don't really need! There are a lot of interesting parts and a bit of Jigsaw Le Mans Spitfire memorabilia on offer. Here's a link to their shop: https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/lemans-r Now that Jigsaw Triumph is sadly no more, it's good to see Mark and Jo are active offering Triumph parts. I've no idea if this is simply a clear out of old stock after the Jigsaw business had to fold, or a new venture - in which case I wish them the best of luck . Nigel

Try contacting Don Hoods: www.donhoods.com They make all Triumph hoods and tonneaux and will probably make a custom tonneau to order. Nigel