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Nigel Clark

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Everything posted by Nigel Clark

  1. Nigel Clark
    Welcome back! It's also helps avoid airlocks if you raise the front of the car when filling the cooling system. Then start the engine, let it idle and top up if the level drops. Nigel
  2. Nigel Clark
    Yes, at least it is on Triumph sixes, where I've used a sump drain plug to blank off this tapping in the cylinder head. Nigel
  3. Nigel Clark
    I also think it's an exhaust problem, most likely fouling on the chassis or diff carrier. It's worth checking under the car for broken exhaust mountings and its alignment. While under there, have a good look for any witness marks indicating contact between exhaust and underside of the car. Nigel
  4. Nigel Clark
    Mikalor stainless hose clamps/clips are the best, in my opinion. They're available in many sizes on eBay, suitable for coolant hoses and exhaust systems. Nigel
  5. Nigel Clark
    I've had flywheels on and off 6 cylinder Triumphs quite a few times. I've always torqued the 3/8 UNF bolts to 42-46 lb ft, as per the workshop manual and used thread locking compound. I've never had a problem with these bolts loosening. Nigel
  6. Nigel Clark
    Hi Keith, That's an interesting account. I have the Classic Driving Development uprated drop links on my GT6 and TR6. They are both also fitted with poly bushes. Can't explain why but the drop links seem to sharpen up turn in to bends, plus they won't wear out like modern rubber drop links. . Nigel
  7. Nigel Clark
    I used 9mm MDF to make new boot boards for my GT6 Mk3, detailed recently in my staff car saga in Practical Classics magazine. Nigel
  8. Nigel Clark
    Moulded carpets would be original for most Triumphs. Newton Commercial produce accurate moulded carpets sets for many Triumphs. I believe Newton supply some of the usual Triumph parts retailers, in addition to selling direct. Nigel
  9. Nigel Clark
    Correct! I bought a reconditioned diff from TD Fitchett, and am a satisfied customer, though can't comment on their price vs Rimmer Bros. Nigel
  10. Nigel Clark
    I started reading your post and thought 'that's likely to be a failing UJ'. Great job of correct diagnosis and cure on your part! Nigel
  11. Nigel Clark
    Thank you, that's a great idea, I'm going to try that. Nigel
  12. Nigel Clark
    Thank you gents. I hate removing the tunnel cover, especially the two screws at the top going through the bulkhead, so I'm going to try from underneath. Nigel
  13. Nigel Clark
    I have a Yuasa 063 on my Scimitar GTE. For some reason Reliant never thought it necessary to fit anything larger to start a 3 litre V6! The Yuasa has worked fine for 6 years now and still starts the big Ford engine easily in winter, even after standing unused for weeks. Nigel
  14. Nigel Clark
    I need to get the prop out of my Rotoflex GT6 Mk3 to replace the universal joints. Simple question... Is it necessary to take the tunnel cover out to release the bolts connecting prop to overdrive flange, or can this be done from under the car? It's so long since I've done this job I can't remember, and taking out the tunnel cover is one of my least favourite jobs! Thanks in advance, Nigel
  15. Nigel Clark
    I've had a Bell manifold on my GT6 for about 20 years. It's never been lagged but I have fitted alloy carb heat shields. The car has never had a problem with carbs overheating, either in 2 litre format with Stromberg CDSE 150s, or more recently 2.5 litre with twin SU HS6s. Nigel
  16. Nigel Clark
    Cat litter trays are cheap and make excellent receptacles for draining coolant, oil etc. They're also useful for parts storage or stripping down small legend e.g. carbs. Nigel
  17. Nigel Clark
    +1 I fitted a 14" leather Motolita to my GT6 Mk3 many years ago. It's the perfect balance between a quick but heavy 13" wheel and the original 15", which is light but needs a bit of arm twirling and catches the thighs of taller drivers. Nigel
  18. Nigel Clark
    I use a thin smear of silicone on both sides of the thermostat gasket, preferably Reinzosil. Belt and braces perhaps but it works! Nigel
  19. Nigel Clark
    That makes sense! Nigel
  20. Nigel Clark
    IIRC the ignition warning light was glowing faintly, not fully illuminated. Nigel
  21. Nigel Clark
    Yes, the standard design was marginal with no reserve.... The original dynamo is rated at 22 amps. Four sealed beam headlights draw 16 amps on their own. Add side lights, panel lights and ignition, and the total will be around 20 amps, maybe a bit more. With a little inefficiency in the dynamo, the battery will drain flat over a few hours. It happened to me on the CT Round Britain Reliability Run. Nigel
  22. Nigel Clark
    The above advice is good but there's one more factor to consider. On main beam, with all four headlights illuminated (whether tungsten sealed beam or halogen), the total current draw exceeds the dynamo output, so the battery will gradually discharge. I found this out in a Vitesse during an all night drive many years ago. The answer is either an alternator, or led bulbs which need less current. Nigel
  23. Nigel Clark
    You should have a pair of Stromberg !50 CDSE carbs on a Mk3 GT6. Nigel
  24. Nigel Clark
    That is neat! Think I will make one for the TR6. Nigel
  25. Nigel Clark
    Three questions to consider: - has all the air been bled from the injector lines? - is the choke cable adjusted so that the enrichment lever operates fully with the choke knob pulled out? - is the new MU correctly timed? Nigel
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