alan.gilbert_6384

Hi everyone, hope you're all well. I was just wondering if anyone has used www.finneasyu.com ? I was searching for a new spoiler and found this at a very god price, but I am always cautious when something seems too god to be true, can anyone advise ?? https://www.finneasyu.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=256954

Hi, attached are picture from the mag, and having tired both wheels down and wheels up, definitely wheels up is best and easiest. fleabay is where you find the stuff mostly I think. Don't forget to put a catch try underneath or you could mess up your driveway.

👍

Looks good Have you checked the trunnion for wear, you seem to have replaced everything else

Brilliant work, those upper door seal clips are rather fun, are they not ? The pin that holds the winder handle is also a real laugh to put back in. Notice you have a central locking system

having tried both, a syringe is much easier, for this job, said the actress to the bishop

Antiques road show 😉

Aha, Cheers Pete. That was quick 🙂

Please could somebody explain the purpose of this plastic plug on the bottom of my SU HS4 carburettor piston? The lip of the plug protrudes very slightly from the bottom of the piston (shown bottom left) and prevents the piston from contacting the carb's bridge when in the fully down position, leaving a minute gap instead of a flush metal-metal connection. Is this intentional?

Cheers trigolf, and everyone else, I will try jacking it up and trying that, once the winter is over

Cheers Johny, I have removed the grease nipple and screwed in 6MM nylon tube (seem a good fit, it was recommend in the mag February edition

Cheers Pete, I will check again, maybe i'm going mad

Hi All, Does anyone know why one side of the car would require much more pressure (using a large syringe instead of the messy oil grease gun thing this time) to inject oil into the trunnion ? Also is the wishbone pivot bush oiled at the same time, ie is the cross bore connected to the main threaded part by an oil way ? Reason for asking is that oil seems to becoming out of the pivot bore shields. I cannot seem to find any cross sectional views of the internals anywhere

When they built it they wasted at least an egg cup of body colour paint on they chassis 😉

Also decided to oil the trunions as the sun was out.

As you can see the root cause is a bloody loose screw (they do say that dogs look like their owners temperament and all, wonder if its the same with triumphs ?) So set it back up again level with bottom of the piston. Now the manual says adjust the jet to the top of the bridge, but it does not say exactly which part of the bridge, as the jet bearing is also present and just slightly lower than the aluminium area around it. So I lifted the jet until I could just feel the piston to move and marked the flat of the nut. Then down two full turns, and then (when engine is nice and warm) back up each one one flat at a time until the engine just starts to lower rpm and then back one flat at a time until back to same rpm. I then checked with the colour tune (last used in 1981/2, never throw things away;) to make sure all was well as well as using two balance measures. The Malcometer and the more normal flow meter. All now good, checked after extensive run and the plugs look good as well, yippee

So then dismantled the carbs to find this,

Hi every one, Update on the issue, looking at the manual it has this,

Cheers Mjit, I am planning on more investigation tomorrow, and will look carefully at the hoses.

Hi Johny, Will begin the carb checks today, minus the coke HI Pete, I set them according to manual, guess there's more than one way to skin the cat

Hi Thanks Johny, I tried the old dizzy still with the electronic unit (the dizzy was marked on its rotation before I removed before this issue arose, so i knew were to set it) exactly the same issue, soon as it gets warm, try getting the coke in and it just dies, no matter what you do with the throttle.

Hi Pete, Thanks, I set the static according to the book, ie lamp on at 24' and then turn engine to 10' then turn dizzy until light goes out. thing is as soon as it starts to get warm if you start to push the choke in it just dies, no matter how much accelerator pedal you give it

Hi All, Been having some troubles with my spitfire 1500. Put it away a few weeks ago and all was fine except a timing issue. This keep changing for no reason (using a strobe to set it), so talked to power spark and after some advice on this forum concluded that my 45D4 was not as should be for electronic ignition module (the actuator ring could sit too low on the shaft leaving a significant gap between it, and the rotor arm). It used to run ok, but not anymore. Ordered a new dizzy from Powerspark (points type as I already have the electric unit). So came to fit it, only to find that the relatively new solenoid (4 months old) was now stuck in, aghaaaaa. Replaced this with the old solenoid (keep this as spare just in case) and all worked. Came to fit the new dizzy, checked the offset dissy drive was in the correct place and fitted the points dizzy. Set the timing static for now using a test lamp, and started her up, all well. As the car warms up putting the choke in, then it all stops, the darn thing will not run without choke when warm. Has any one got any ideas ????????? Have I now got a third fault with the carbs ????? feeling very unlucky at the moment

Hi All, Thanks very much for the info, and pointers, I have checked the cabling it seems ok. The cable tie just stops the cables being pulled out of the unit (came with the kit, not sure if it's really necessary). The actuator ring is tight on the shaft, but its not in the same horizontal plane as yours Colin, so this might also be an issue. Even just using the rotor to position the actuator ring as far up the shaft as possible, it's still lower than yours ? @Graham, good tip on the dizzy manufacturing thing, thanks. Power spark sells a 45D4 with points for £32.00, they recommend this option and fitting my unit to it, seems a good price for a brand new dizzy ??

Cheers Colin, Don't suppose you could take a picture with the rotor arm and actuator removed ? I will look at the springs as well, good point.