alan.gilbert_6384

Looks like just a bit of surface rust, the rest should polish out 💩

Hi All, Found this really interesting article on the oils, goes someway to exapliaing why oil companies say GL5 is safe for yellow metals, but it also explains why its no good for synchros, worth a read. https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf @ Clive like your suggestion of Commas SX 75-90 GL4 gear oil, just found this on fleabay and its on its way https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf

Hi Colin, I work for a certain OEM (based at Gaydon) technical specialist, and your absolutely right. The lengths we have to go to with electrical systems are unbelievable. We have to effectively firewall separate systems to ensure that they function even when the rest of car systems shut down (try getting a PC to do that). We have to buy life time stocks of certain chips sets even before the cars JOB1 date, as the chips set industry is all about the next greatest thing rather than sustainable manufacturing ( typical chipset run is just 18 months) longest I’ve known was 36 months and that was because a certain Chinese government body ordered it). Now we have OTA in the back ground which is a god send for us and our customers.

Hi Pete, if you liked Linux then you will get on well with a Mac, as it’s the basis for the Mac OS.

Hi All, Thanks very much for all the suggestions. I really value your empirical knowledge. Still trying to get the bottom of the GL4 or GL5 for the gear box. Here's what I've got so far. 1. Triumph spitfire 1500 hand book, GL5 (overseas, ?) 2. Haynes manual; Hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE 90 EP. 3. Spitfire 1500 work shop manual; Hypoid 90, with GL4 for overseas, this is opposite to the hand book above?(maybe brexit was a thing then as well ;). 4. Herald 1200 12/50 vitesse 6 chart; Hypoy gear oil (what's the heck is hypoy). Aghhhhhhhh P.S. I'm doing this because the weather is rubbish and I can't go outside.

Hi Ian, The wire was standard factory fit, not sure about the tape though, think some has added this. BTW don't use cable ties there rubbish and can dislodge, use jubilee type or the double wire type which look a bit like jubilee clips but are made from wire instead of a steel band. A coke can with the ends cut off and split down the middle provides a very good guide for the new gator over the IBJ and on to the housing. Good luck.

Ah, what's the difference with this one Ive been using apart from the E at the end, the data sheet says it should be fine but I would appreciate some advice, thanks.

Hi All, re GL4 or GL5, please see pictures of original BL handbook, any comments, inserted to know why they state what they do ?

I always use the wife's nail varnish remover (i say the wife's ) acetone works wonders on most glues including that horrible expanding stuff, that says it can only be mechanically removed, this ant true.

You might like this one by Elin, Please let me know how you get on, cheers good luck.

Sorry the windscreen frame, cheers

I replaced mine, what a pig of a job with all that bloody grease, then saw a video of someone using a cut up coke can (ends off, then split down the middle) which goes around the steering gear and guides the boot on to the larger diameter you then just pull it out. Really wished I has known that before I fitted mine, would of saved the knuckles a battering and some expletives to go with them.

I've got loads of the correct rubber seals (five of them per solenoid), after refurbishing mine and had to buy minimum quantity. Will send anyone a set, SAE and a first class stamp, all that's needed, send me a PM.

Hi, I don't suppose you have any pictures of the other side in the area where you have the rust hole. I am curious about the inner construction in this area, thanks.

Hi All, Saw this today and was wondering if also applies if your head has been adapted to unleaded ? I think it might be as the rest of the system is old style ie copper lines, fuel pump and steel tank etc. Any thoughts anyone ? E10 fuel to be sold at forecourts from 2021 can damage older carshttps://mol.im/a/8431219

Hi Brooky, I too trained in the 1980's with MMA and Gas on pipelines coded, I seem to remember a hell of a lot of heat distortion on anything below 2mm sheet with gas. How are you controlling it on yours ? Looks good by the way.

Cheers all, think I will lave as is then @colin, I too was very worried about the lack of oil pressure, did a few hours fault finding then realised the ignition was off when I took the picture

Hi All, I have replaced the standard temperature heat gauge with a combined oil and heat as per picture. The original gauge needle only got to exactly the same place as you can see in the picture on the new gauge (the original being the electrical one and the new one being capillary). I assume that as both are reading the same they are both OK and correct (it would seem to be a bizarre coinsdence if both read wrong). I have checked and it seems to be fitted with the standard 82c thermostat, question is, should I change to an 88c thermostat to see if I can get the needle to mid position where it should be ? The 1500 has been fitted with a wide radiator so cools better, but I don't think that's why it won't get hotter as the stat controls release temp from the head to the rad. The engine runs fine, I just want to see what would happen if I can get the needle to the mid position, I presume it will better running at nominal temp rather than a tad lower as at present. Any thoughts ?

Sorry forgot to say, its still the original Brit part fitted, the new unit is in the boot just incase 🙏

Hi All, Latest update, I had the same thoughts as some of you and thought low tension side might be the issue, so brought a new power spark ignition module (which is exactly the same as the Brit part as currently fitted, probably made in the same Chinese factory ;). Also read this article http://classicmechanic.blogspot.com/2011/05/testing-and-ignition-coil.html Now what got me thinking was this web site also says that you should replace the heat grease under the module every 1000 miles or so, which was my thinking also. I also read the instructions (a novel idea according to wifey) which came with the new power spark unit and manufactured the additional you can see in the picture below. It all now works fine, pulls well and no pinking, but here the thing, i checked the BTDC again and it is 13 degrees ????? Any body got any ideas ?? P.S. filled her with Sainsbury's super unleaded.

So here’s the thing, went for a run today and at 6 degrees she was sputtering and missfireing, then that stopped. I adjustered back to 10 BTDC. And all was now fine. Then when running longer the ignition intermittently stopped twice and the tach went to zero each time and then straight back up again. Then it stalled when pulling off but started ok and ran ok. I have now taken the switch in the dizzy off ( red part in the pictures, it’s a Brit part not an accu spark one) and cleaned all the heat grease off and replaced it with some I had left over from building a computer CPU cooling system. I will play again tomorrow, I have not tried the mixture thing yet. any ideas anyone ? P.S. could it be coil ? I have a spare Bosch one made in brazil

Cheers Pete, Its got a 12v coil (sorry forgot to mention that bit) so the units connected to the + side of the coil. Will try the richen her up a bit see what happens, thanks.

Hi All, Hope everyone is well. Lots of time to play with my spitfire 1500 but nowhere to go Im after a bit of advice. I bought as timing lamp and checked the timing on my car, but before this I set both the needles correctly and adjusted the mixture (checked again with my very old colour tune), and balanced the carbs. The ignition leads are accu sparks and new the points have been replaced by PO with the contactless type as in Accu spark ones, the plugs are NGKs and also relatively new. The engine was running OK, I checked the timing and it was about 6 BTDC, so I adjusted this to 10 BTDC as per book etc. The engine idle speed increased as i did this, so then compensated it back to 800 rpm. So now here's my issue, the engine starts well, revs well, and at a constant speed nothing untoward is apparent. But if I accelerate under load it starts to get very hesitant and accelerates slowly. Ive taken it back to 6 BTDC and appears to be better, but not had much chance to test it again. Has anyone any ideas why it might be like this ? Thanks very much.

Hi All, Can you please advise (I know you lot know everything so came here first). I want to refurbish by hub cap, please see picture so I really need to know three things, 1, How best to remove the old paint ? 2. How best to prepare the plastic for paint ? 3. Which paint to use ? As a side issue does anyone know what those annoying springs on the back, which keep distorting the plastic, are for ? Thanks very much

Cheers Derek, thanks for looking for me. Yes I think mine is the weelbarrow type as well, may be some ear defenders are required , on the plus side maybe they can keep my ears warm as well😂