alan.gilbert_6384

Hi Pete, sorry I have to disagree with two important points ( I used to be a coded welder back in the day). Number one, eye lids will absolutely not prevent ark eye or retina burn by the weld radiation Welding arcs give off radiation over a broad range of wavelengths - from 200 nm (nanometres) to 1,400 nm (or 0.2 to 1.4 µm, micrometres). These ranges include ultraviolet (UV) radiation (200 to 400 nm), visible light (400 to 700 nm), and infrared (IR) radiation (700 to 1,400 nm). UV-radiation is divided into three ranges - UV-A (315 to 400 nm), UV-B (280 to 315 nm) and UV-C (100 to 280 nm). UV-C and almost all UV-B are absorbed in the cornea of the eye. UV-A passes through cornea and is absorbed in the lens of the eye. Secondly low carbon steel (or mild steel as it some times called) as used in pressed panels or more commonly used from the mill as rolled steel, has between 0.16 and 0.29% carbon, with rolled sheet steel for panel making being at the lower end for ductility during the pressing process. Welding steels at either end of this spectrum will present no problem at all and only full metallurgical analysis will be able to tell the difference within the fusion material (I am guessing that you may have had something else going on when you had this issue) ? I only point this out as I really don't think people understand the long tern effects of weld radiation both on the skin and the eyes. Please be very careful, the damage is permanent. Best wishes. Some UV radiation, visible light, and IR radiation can reach the retina.

I too have used Hammerite rust beater number 1, with Kurust first for a number of years, really especially in marine environments, never seen it fail yet.

great work

Cheers Pete, will have a play with the timing. It’s currently at 10 BTDC, will try both ways to see what effect it will have. The jets are non wax stats. And no poppet valves installed. @Jonny will recheck compression this was 118 cold and 120 hot on all 4 cylinders, will also check the valve clearances, cheers.

Hi Pete, Thanks have tried this but it made no difference plugged off both ends as well. It runs well in acceleration, the mixtures are set correctly, carbs balanced, all ignition checked out. I have a spare dissy that I might try if the weather permits. Just thinking of the timing chain, what would the effect of that be, she has done 88K I think its the original chain ???? IMG_2131.MOV

Hi All, Just after a base line check here about what is and what is not normal for the 1500 sc engine. So the carbs have been balanced, set to the correct mixture using colour tune and checking plugs etc after a good run. I have checked all plugs they are new and good as are the HT leads etc. I have every changed the dissy cap and rotor arm to an original english made one (no difference). Timing set to bang on 10 BTC. When accelerating it is good and no problems, however when cruising ie throttle pedal set to maintain constant speed, it seems not be smooth, the same can be seen in the video attached. So is this normal ?? Can I do anything to improve it ? I have checked compression hot and cold all good (118 all cylinders cold and 120 hot). It's the same with points or electronic ignition (currently running electronic). Any Ideas ????? thanks very much. IMG_2131.MOV

IMG_0431.pdfHi, I got mine from the guy in Ireland, went for the one piece as I think it looks much better than 3 with scores showing.

Adding a two penny worth, have you got a colour tune spark plug ? Worth checking Mixture as a sooty plug is a rich mixture and best way to set it is with a colour tune in my experience ( the other ways are not as reliable ) and you can see what happens as you rev the engine and at all speeds as you gradually increase the range. You can also see if your burning oil in the mixture. Failing that just change the plugs first and see what happens, good luck.

Hi All, Update on the rough running when cold. Having looked at all the above and tested everything etc, I decided I push the boat out and buy some new plugs. I did not do what I did before and buy some fancy plugs (see pictures, I could never workout how to set the blooming gaps anyway, these blighters did about 700 miles ). Did a bit of research ref iridium, platinum, copper etc As it turns out the fancy (iridium, platinum) is only good for plug coil types (these are the individual coils attached to each plug on modern engines) due to the much higher power throughput, so not only was copper the cheapest but the best for single coil distributor type ignition types. Bit more looking around and it was concluded that a hot type pug was needed. So invested 10 quid in some NGK BP5ES and 10 quid in Champion N12Y (the champion pugs are slightly hotter than the NGKs). Fitted the NGK's so far all is good and running very well now. Just goes to show the work shop manual is usually right and modern stuff is not always better than the 70's engineering. I can only think that the fancy ones or one of them, only produced a decent spark when very hot, difficult to get to when its not firing. So it relied on the residual heat from the the rest of the engine to get it hot and then started to work. Interestingly the bloody lawn mower decided it was going to play up as well. It would start and run very well for about 5 minutes, then stop, and not restart. If left for a while it would start and run again but for a short period. After looking at the manual fault finding guide it was decided this was fuel related and the bowl not filling up quick enough, sounds plausible ? Stripped it all down, found no problems, blew it all out with the compressor, all the way from the tank and through the carburettor. Put it all back together, no flipping change same as before. So as I was ordering plugs for the Spit, decided to splash out 4 quid on a new plug for it as well, with the full expectation that this won't fix it, but hey oh. Fitted the new plug before I did anything else (change one thing, at one time, a hard lesson learnt many years ago) and gave it a try, it works perfectly now. The reason I wrote this last bit is that it seems to have the opposite route cause to the spitfire's ie the plug works when cold but not when hot, go figure, as our cousins across the water say. Hope this helps. Cheers to Pete for the plug stuff above.

Hi, the cracking looks like was propagated by the failed spot welds on the support gusset. Personally I would drill a small hole at each ends of the cracking, re-weld fully the gusset using Mig (Tig won't make that much difference on low grade carbon steel, its very hard to work harden 0.25% carbon steel) then weld up the cracks. The original design was good but it can be overstressed or over used.

Hi All, Update on the overdrive. I had a brain wave (not usual), I decided rather than strip all the car apart to find out if was mechanical or electrical, I thought what's the easiest thing to do first. Check the blooming switch of course, (thought I had done this with putting it in third gear ignition on and switching the solenoid, but wanted to make sure) so I removed it and tested it with the old multi meter. It was intermittent no contact, then contact when switching ermmm. So went for a test drive with the contacts just sticking out of the gear leaver and putting them together by hand, and hey presto all worked fine (bloody intermittently switching switch). Then a search of tinternet for a new one, what £12 quid plus postage for a cheap Chinese copy, no chance, so I took it apart. Turns out it was pitted because the design is rubbish, it does not make or break the contact fast enough to stop arcing (it was working as per design intent, the little spring was in very good shape. Cleaned it all up and now all is well with the world again (for this issue at least). Some pictures attached incase anyone wondered what was inside one of these switches.

HI All, Update; I have now done the compression test cold and hot, good news is that all cylinders are the same 118 psi cold, 120 hot. I thought there might be some variation but not as it seems. Does anyone know the correct set up for the coke system (I have looked in the Hayes and the workshop manual, but unless I am going mad, a possibility, all they mention is tuning and not basic set up to start with of the coke)? Hopefully you can see the attached video. It seems to have 3 phases of operation. The first is large amount of movement which does not seem to do much at all. The second then lowers the jets. The third rotates the butterfly's, very marginal as can be seen in the video. Does anyone have any ideas if this this is good ?????? Thanks for all your suggestions and help so far. IMG_2067.MOV

Hi, welding is not stronger, it is different process by which parent metal and filler material are fused together in a very localised joint. Brazing will create a much bigger joint at a much lower temperature as needed by the body flex. The heat affected zone is also greatly reduced, this is where you have had your joint failure with welding. Triumph used this technique in certain areas only requiring it (the tunnel which connects to the rear wheel arches etc) as the filler and flux are more expensive than just mild steel filler rod. It works by creating a metallurgical bond between the filler metal and the surfaces of the two metals being joined. The principle by which the filler metal is drawn through the joint to create this bond is capillary action. In a brazing operation, you apply heat broadly to the base metals. The filler metal is then brought into contact with the heated parts. It is melted instantly by the heat in the base metals and drawn by capillary action completely through the joint. This is how a brazed joint is made.

Hi, the sill seam was not welded at the factory because of the amount of body flex, it was brazed. Here is an original example, hope it helps.

Hi all, Help, Looking for some ideas as what might be wrong. So whilst driving my 1977 1500 spitfire, the other day on the motorway (bloody stupid idea, 1500 spitfire made before most of them where built or even thought of) my over drive decided it no longer wanted to play, and had a sulk. It just switch to direct drive with no noise or vibration, and would not re engage, no matter how many times I flicked the switch. So so far I have checked the oil level, all good, checked the electrical circuit (put it in third and checked that the solenoid was making a clicking noise) all good. What now ????

Hi thanks for the suggestions I will check them all out. already checked the carbs and all levers all Woking ok and returning ok, the coolant tube is good and no losses anywhere, dissy is new and oiled, jets are non wax and operating correctly will check the small springs etc. Timing remains the same warm or cold. Just ordered a compression tester gauges and will check these when it arrives. The head was fully refurbished approx 5000 miles ago. I will check all the valves again, thanks all, will let you know how it goes. I usually start to gradually push the choke in as it get warm, will try other things next.

Hi All, Hope you're all well. So here is my problem, spitfire 1500 1976, when its warm, its great runs really well, but from cold its rough, won't accelerate properly etc. As it warms up it stays the same rough running until a few minutes after maximum temperature is reached ie the thermostat opens, then a few minutes after further running all is well. It starts OK on choke with small amount of accelerator pedal etc. The timing is 10 BTD, dwell is good (yep still on points but will replace later with a spark rite unit). The carbs are balanced and the mixture set as per book and colour tune checked (plugs a little black after a good run, not too much, I think this maybe old piston rings leaking a little oil, but no smoke out of the exhaust). Is it me just not remembering how things were in the past ??

Hi just to make sure, I take it this is a tubular exhaust ? it that this is what is referred to a tubular exhaust ?

Brilliant both, I will investigate and let you know what i find, cheers thanks a lot.

Hi Pete, it’s a 1500 1976. SU 4 carbs

Hi Pete, no idea about the needles, the filter was changed by the PO. Is there any way of telling ?

Hi Pete, yep with the filters on, k and n, not the original box, that’s in a box in the garage. Changed by the PO

Hi Pete, oh, maybe I need a longer run after its warmed up, this was only about 5 miles. I have done the carb lift pin check 1 to 2 mm (approx) and no change in RPM, then all the way up and it stalls (i believe this is correct). Checked with the colour tune, and balance air meter all looks good. Will try again, if it stops raining before Christmas

Hi All. hope your all well. Been playing with the spitfire again, its been a really rough running until up to temperature, then it's really good. These are the plugs, any ideas anyone?

Hi Just out of interest, why are you taking the windscreen out ?