rogerguzzi

Hello Mark I think you have done the right thing I would not have run a lip seal on that sort of surface and expect it to last unless it was a static seal Roger

Hello All I decided to change my front engine mountings as they looked a bit saggy and I am getting some clutch judder(I know I need to take the gearbox out and change the the clutch plate) but I thought perhaps new engine mountings would help for now. The problem is I bought some of Fleabay and they seemed a lot stiffer if a bit rough looking but after fitting them I now seem to have extra vibration being transmitted to the chassis/car. So the question is who do we think is the best supplier of engine mountings?(Spitfire 1500) Roger

Hello Darren Just get one of these. http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/1400-fuel-pumps/ I have been running mine for 5+years and just come back from Classic Spa at 70+ no problems Roger

Hello The best thing to do is fit a pair of relays and heavier gauge cable. Then you get brighter light an less strain on the light switch and dip switch There are lots of circuit drawings on hear and esle where. Roger ps and a pair of Osram night breakers improve things even more

Hello All Surely servo's don't improve braking just make it lighter? I can lock the wheels on my Spitfire so unless we all fit anti lock etc it won't make them better just lighter? Different pads yes and or ventilated discs and callipers etc. I personally think slightly heavier brakes make you look farther down the road and not just at the car in front? roger

Hello Richard and Pete You have both confirmed what I thought any way Spitty has the split system so I would have some braking? Front if I was lucky? Roger

Hello All What do we think the life of stainless/steel hoses is then? I have had my Spitfire nearly 6 years and the hoses were fitted when I bought it , they still look ok but now you have got me thinking as we are off to Spa in 2 weeks and then off to Italy and back to Le Mans later Roger

Hello All We had a run out with the local pre war and classic car club(our local TSSC were off on 5 point tour) Roger

Hello they are in the kit of bearings(perhaps Garth should make that clear?) Roger

Hello All The bearings and seal I purchased from the CLUB SHOP fitted perfectly so there you have it? and the price was good as well(for quality bearings NTN I think) Roger

Hello All An update on this been out on the first longish drive (100 miles)since fitting this kit. I seem to have lost my pad rattle? and the brake pedal is a lot more positive all the time. I forgot to check to see that nothing is getting to hot in the hub area. So overall I am pleased with the result and I like the idea of the nut being done up tight not rattling on the split pin. I will check for play when more miles covered(after Spa) I am lying I will have to have a quick look before! Roger

Hello Mike Were the correct bolts fitted? as I find it hard to believe 2 x 5/16" bolts would shear off unless the the cam has seize in the block? Roger

Hello All Some of you may be interested in this? It all started when I converted my brother in laws TR6 to Megajolt ignition and we wanted to convert the tachometer to electronic and remove the distributor etc. I picked up a 6 cylinder Smiths RVC type tachometer with a view to converting the existing one, but I could not get it to work on the Megajolt (the one on my Spitfire works perfectly?) so I just assumed I had picked up a duff one(but it was in a leyland box and looked new?) Now we move on 9 months and I was thinking of this problem(I will be fitting a differential I have rebuilt soon and wanted to do the tachometer as well) So I was browsing the Tinter web and came across this site. https://urevco.com/ So emailed Marco to ask if it would work on the Megajolt system and he said it should ok. He also offered to send me one free of charge to try and if it did not work I could just return it (what a pleasant change) So he sent me one with a cadboard dial and pointer and wired and set up for 4 cylinders and 7000rpm as per Spitfire. When it arrived I found I could run it along side the one in the car and also I connected the laptop so I could see the RPM on the Megajolt software. Result it looks good and accurate and well made(it may be very slighly slower at returning but not enough to bothered by) So here are a few you thingy clips so you can see for yourselves(I have just got to build it into the original one but should not have to drill more holes in the dial as it has slots to take the screws)

Hello Taffius Get one of these they dont need a regulator and come 5 year warranty! One has been on my Spitfire for 5 years and 15000 miles PLUS they are quiet. http://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=29 I would fit an inertia switch as well (cheap on Ebay just make sure you get the connector as well) Something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FUEL-PUMP-INERTIA-CUT-OFF-SWITCH-KITCAR-WESTFIELD-RALLY-RACE-/361533136930?hash=item542d0de022:g:5doAAOSwsFpWSj0B Roger ps more info http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/HUCO.html

Hello All How about an electric water pump with variable speeds to suit the engine tempeature? Only thinking out loud and to get all the brains going!!!!! Roger ps 2 thermostats of course 1 for the fans and 1 for the pump?

Hello John The one I am using is an Intermotor 50101. 83/79 88/83 I did try a Motoquip VRF327 88/82 92/87 but the engine got to hot before it cut in. Would probably be ok if fitted to the top of the radiator. Have a look on lowcostbuilders.co.uk they have a list with all sizes and temperatures. http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=152082 I purchased my fans from here, there was no way I was paying £200+ for a kit and a micky mouse sensor pushed into the top hose(car manufactures dont fit things like that?) http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/9-universal-slimline-electric-cooling-fan-reversible-268/ Roger Ps my rebuilt full width radiator came with the sensor tapping at the bottom 22mm x 1.5 so I assumed it was standard

Hello While agree the fan and radiator are there to stop the engine getting to hot. But I still don't see why the fan has to operate before the radiator is getting to hot? after all the water going into the engine from the bottom of the radiator is colder than the engine(back to assuming the system is working correctly) I find with my Spitfire if I run the engine in the garage until it is hot and the bottom mounted thermostat operates the temperature gauge goes just over half way with an 82deg thermostat fitted and the fan cuts out after a few minutes(to get the second fan on I have to rev it a lot and get some soak heat in) Didn't MGF's suffer from thermal shock causing the head gaskets to fail due to the radiator being at the front and the water returning to the engine was to cold?(my daughters failed and I researched it) but they do not fail in kit cars with a normal set up. I think I will leave Spitty's were it is as it was ok in the heat of Spain

But surely the thermostat starts to open early and by the time it gets to 82deg(or 88deg) it is fully open so the flow would be ok? because before that it does not need the extra cool water? as it is still coming up to operating temperature. Assuming the system it up to scratch. Roger

Hello All You correct about relays I run both my fans through relays and seperate fuses(built into the relay's) Roger ps and headlights

Hello Richard I do not think it matters whether you switch the live or ground it is just a thermostatic switch. The switch I have has got 3 terminals so there is a common + or - and a high and low temperature. I have the model number written down some where? Photo shows the override switch which is centre off and left 1 fan right 2 fans with leds to show what is on Roger

Hello Richard If the switch operates early surly the fan is just trying to cool already cool water. We are all assuming the radiator and system are clean through out in which case I can not see why the top is better? I took Spitty to Spain last year and after early nervousness by me and switching the fans on early! when I left it to do its own controlling only one fan ever came on and we were in 30/35deg + down in Jerez Roger

Hello Richard Mine is fitted in the bottom of the rad and is a dual temperture switch as I have 2 fans. switching on at 82deg/78deg and 88deg/82deg To me it seems the correct place, why would you wan't to cool the water before the rad had done its job? Also is it not better for the engine to have water coming back into it at not much lower temperature than it runs at for maximum efficiency? Roger

Hello Both When all else fails read the instructions properly? James says adjust to zero to 0.002" So I will have another go and aim at zero to a nats. Roger

Hello all I have been playing? with the spacer kit today. The instructions say adjust shims to give no play? when nut tightened to 35ftlbs But when you look at Timken and SKF sites they all say to leave a few thou clearance? So now I am confused(easy to do) If I adjust them to no play what happens when the hub gets hot and expands? So should I try and adjust to say 0.001" to 0.002" clearance? It would still clamp the inner races to stop them spinning on the stub axle and possibly stop flexing?(Spitfire not TR6 with lorry engine up front) Thoughts? Roger

That is a drain hole for if the seal leaks Roger