KevinR

Plenty of people have fitted 14" wheels to Triumphs - some have been even bolder and gone for 17" rims, but they just look stupid. 185/60/14 will give the same rolling radius as a 155/80/13, so there will be no change in the speedometer (in)accuracy. Offset and clearance wise, its usually a case of suck it and see - you can always use a set of spacers if necessary.

Given what the tyres must have been through to get them on 14" rims, and what they will have to go through again to get them off, I wouldn't want them anywhere near a road going car ever again. I would write them off to experience - they are effectively scrap, and no economic level of inspection is going to convince me that they are suitable to be reused. Tyres are not that expensive, and trying to save a £150 or so by reusing them would not really be much of a saving if one of them were to fail and cause you to loose control and crash the car. Safety always has a price, and in this case, scrapping the tyres is a price worth paying. I would be interested to know who fitted the tyres - because if they are a qualified tyre fitter working for a tyre fitting company, then they need to be properly taken to task and probably sacked - it was grossly negligent to fit 13" tyres to a set of 14" rims. Finally, I sincerely hope that you are no longer driving the car with these dangerous wheels/tyres fitted - your insurance is effectively null and void at the moment.

Spitfire MKIV/1500 and GT6MK3 door skins are the same part.

Try the TSSC Club Shop - but login first to get TSSC member pricing.

Carl emigrated to Canada about 12 years ago, taking his Spitfire with him.

Two conflicting sources of information - both of which are normally correct - but one obviously isn't in this instance. One says KE20000 and the other says KE20001. There doesn't appear to be an overtly documented connection between the change in engine number sequence and car commission number sequence, so it's possible that some of the early KE20xxx engines got into very late KE1xxxx cars and vice versa depending on what rework was going on at the end of the line. The swing spring was introduced at commission number KE20001, which went on sale in late Feb 1973, but I cant find any evidence that the engine numbers jumped at exactly the same time.

No, KE2(HE) would have been 1971, as all the leading zeros would have been dropped - it would be the 2nd production engine ever built for the GT6 MK3. KE20000HE would be a 1972 engine - its the leading zeros that are dropped, not the trailing zeros. I have an old MKIV Spitfire engine at home, and if I remember correctly, it is a single digit FH (HE) engine, and it dates from 1970 when the Spit MKIV was first built.

With a commission number of KE 20290, I would expect to find the engine number was fairly near in value. The Heritage Certificate gives the info for the car when it was built and left the factory, so the original engine number was KE20006HE as shown on the Heritage certificate - which is near in value to the commission number. The current engine, KE1444HE, is a very early MK3 GT6 engine, and is most certainly not the original engine for the car. Triumph usually omitted any LEADING zeros from the commission number and engine number (and any other number on the car), but it would be very unusual to be missing digits within the number itself. As built, the current engine would not have had domed pistons, but as the car is more than 43 years old, it is possible that the innards of the engine have been changed and an different head fitted. The only way to be sure is to have a look - probably easiest to pull out a spark plug and look in with a bore scope.

Please see the Forum Announcements section for the reminder. When you signed up to the Forum you agreed to abide by the terms and conditions. Maybe you should reacquaint yourselves with the Forum Rules. http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?app=forums&module=extras&section=boardrules

Just a polite reminder, this forum is not a place to directly name and shame traders, and that includes eBay sellers. If you have a problem with a trader, deal directly with them, and keep it private. If you really feel you need to "warn others", then keep it very generic and do not reveal the name of the trader. Be prepared for the moderators to step in and remove the topic.

And as Richard says, don't forget to put a towel over the engine when cranking with the plugs out. Redex goes everywhere if you don't.

John, Great to know that you've found the cause of the problem. It might be worth checking the passwords for the other message boards you use, they may have the same problem - even though the boards are not set to require a login to view, you may find that you are now viewing them as a guest.

John, It must be a setting on your computer. If you tick the "remember me" box when you log in, it should do just that - so long as you don't click the "sign out" link to leave the forum. The most likely cause is a setting that deletes your cookies - maybe even an add on program that controls cookies. The forum is set to require a login to view to reduce the number of spammers that try and sign up - and up until now it appears to have worked. When the forum first came back, it was open to view without a login, and it came under sustained attack from spammers who were creating accounts and posting spam. It would appear that the requirement to login to view the forum causes the scripts that the spammers use to fail to create an account, so is being successful. If you look at the "who's on the forum" page, you will notice that there is a steady stream of guests who get no further than the front page. As the admin, I can see the IP address that these guests are trying to access the forum from, and 99% of the time, the IP address traces back to one that has been used to launch a spam attack on other forums. So yes, the forum is under sustained attack, and at the moment out countermeasures are working - would you prefer a forum full of spam postings ?

As well as welding, it might be a little easier to braze it - still fairly specialist, but should be cheaper than throwing the head away and starting again.

You'll find lots more useful Triumph workshop documents here - http://www.vitessesteve.co.uk/

No need to guess, go to the main page - http://www.nctawebsite.com/ and then click on each model of car in the pictures at the bottom of the page and it takes you to a page with links to the manuals for that model of car. The Links to the GT6, Spitfire, TR3, TR4, TR5, TR6, TR7, & Stag have subsequent links to the relevant manuals

What you need is a Crypton B89 Syncro Check flow meter http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crypton-Synchro-Check-Model-B89-/221992440059?hash=item33afc7d0fb:g:BOQAAOSwwPhWlCZ~

I thought that a right click on a tablet was done by pressing and holding for several seconds - it's like than on my android tablet.

The image needs to be about 100 pixels by 100 pixels. The easiest way to insert the avatar is to view the thumbnail of the picture in your gallery, then right click on it to get the properties box, note the full file name that the thumbnail is stored as, and then insert this in the box for the location of your avatar.

It might have had the hand of admin involved

He can sometimes be contacted via www.jagclub.ru

The TI chips are 74xx series TTL devices. The "2121" reference is probably a batch number - the LMH2121 device is far too modern, and it's a surface mount device in a totally different package. The quality of the soldering that can be seen is rather poor, and the flux has not been cleaned off. The board part number I can read is E71 3181 Enhancement with photo shop is not helping much.

Looks like some form of kit built digital rev counter to me. Earth wire, power wire and a wire to the coil to count pulses ? Don't think its a clock as there is no crystal on the board to act as the time reference.

Not sure, it may be a trick of the light, but there appears to be a "tide mark" half way up the windscreen !

Spotted this in the Daily Mail today - A TR6 being recovered from the floods in York.