KevinR

It's also available by direct link from the "downloads" section of the forum

If the bulb on the dash has blown, then it is highly likely that the alternator will no longer be charging the battery.

I've just added a new set of forum categories where you can post stories of your restoration projects and the history of your car. For those forum members that have non triumph projects that may be of interest to forum members, I've even added a non-triumph project category. Over the next few days, I'll start moving appropriate threads into the new categories to make them easier to find.

It all depends on the oil, how dirty the internals of the engine are, and how much sludge there is in the sump. If the engine has been well maintained and is internally clean, then the oil should remain fairly clean for a decent mileage.

http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/224-upload-pictures-for-dummies/

I see no reason why you cant fit TWO servos with a twin master cylinder - and then drive one circuit from one servo and the other from the second servo. Jonathan Binnington fitted two servos to his car, with each driven from a single master cylinder with a balance bar between them.

On the GT6, clearances are very tight and will require the removal of the crankshaft driven fan. Even then, it is likely that the crankshaft fan boss will still stick out too far. Many years ago I bought a replacement boss and shorter bolt, which gives much more clearance.

With the car standing still, I doubt you could actually feel the temperature difference between top and bottom. You need to measure the temperature. Normal temperatures can be in excess of 90 degrees, which feels very hot. If it hits 100 degrees, then that is too hot. The gauge reading 3/4 is absolutely meaningless unless you have calibrated it by measuring the actual temperature. If you take four gauges, four temperature sensors and four voltage regulators then you will probably find one combination that reads less than 1/3rd and one that reads almost top scale for 'normal'

Just because the temperature gauge reads high does not mean the car is overheating. The reading could be perfectly normal for your specific combination of gauge, regulator and sensor. You need to actually measure the temperature to tell if it's over heating. A normal temperature hose will still be too hot to hold

First question is why ? If you can lock the wheels with the brakes as they are - and you can with standard brakes - then no amount of uprating will improve them. A servo will only make the pedal lighter to push for a given amount of braking. It won't make them any more efficient. Bigger disc rotors and more pad surface area will just mean you lock up the wheels more easily, so back to the question, why ?

Have you had the accuracy of your torque wrench checked - if the valve clearances changed by a measureable amount then the gasket was never properly compressed, which would indicate that your torque wrench is reading much higher than the actual torque being applied.

Before you go any further you need to do a combustion gas in coolant test to check if it is combustion gas in the water or not. Most garages have the test kit, and you can buy it on Ebay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leaking-Cylinder-Head-Gasket-Block-Test-Kit-Detects-Exhaust-Gas-in-Radiator-/331718244537?hash=item4d3bf2b8b9:g:y3UAAMXQatBSamF0 Unless there is an undetected crack in the block somewhere, I don't think your problem is combustion gas related - and using the test equipment linked to above will prove it. The most likely cause is trapped air somewhere in the system. A very minor leak in the water pump can also cause the same problem - it lets air in !

It's the night dimming relay, which is best removed. It was included to avoid dazzling anyone behind you at night when you stepped on the brakes. The logic being that if the lights are bright enough for daylight use then it made sense to dim the light at night. Check the wiring diagram to work out which wires to connect together, and which to leave disconnected. There will be an earth wire, a wire from the side lights, and the wires to/from the brake lights / indicators.

Cambridge is up to date too

The GL4 versus GL5 argument is long and complicated. As to whether GL5 is OK or not depends on the manufacturers blending chemistry - and they are all different. GL5 oils where the chemistry includes a significant quantity of sulphur (not all of them do) makes the oil "yellow metal" corrosive under certain conditions. The Yellow metal corrosion properties of sulphur rich GL5 is ONLY activated when the oil is VERY hot and been subjected to significant SHEAR activity. These conditions are ONLY achieved when using the oil in a Differential, not a gearbox.

Not withstanding any over heating problems etc, have you uprated the braking system to use GT6 front and rear brakes ?

Manvers Triumph is still open for business and will continue to run in his memory If anyone would like to leave any further words or details on charitable donations please do so via our website using the link below http://www.manverstriumph.com/clive-manvers-1962-2016/ Manvers Triumph

Over on the Club Triumph forum, Pete Sargent has just posted sad news concerning Clive Manvers. Hi all just been told by my neighbour who is a very good friend of his son that yesterday Clive Manvers of Manvers Triumph near Bury St Edmunds suddenly passed away at work with a heart attack and collasped at the age of 50 not good news will keep you updated as I find out more cheers Pete Pete Sargent Fordham Ely Cambs

I've had one of these for more than 30 years - http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/garage-essentials/bell-6-litre-oil-drainer-can Never ever had a problem with it spilling over - but you do need to position it so that the spurt of oil you get when you first remove the plug sump plug, and the last residual drips all hit the collection surface. Also, it's best used indoors in the garage with no breeze blowing through. If used out doors, then use it on a still wind free day - the last residual drips etc get blown about in the wind. Before I got it, I used to use an old 5L container with one side cut out - great for capturing the oil, but not so easy to decant for disposal.

Any shock that fits a Spitfire or Herald should do the job.

It's all to do with compliance with various EEC/EU car construction directives - you can Google them to find out which ones they are.

If you think that's complicated, have a look and see how heated things get on another Triumph forum - http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1456552876/ http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1456552876/

Starting a discussion about the pros and cons of silicone based fluid is like opening a hornets nest. For me, the biggest problem is that it doesn't absorb water. Any water that gets into the reservoir, such as condensation inside the lid, will fall to the bottom of the reservoir as liquid water - silicone fluid floats on water. With the passage of time, it will get pumped down the pipes an will always pool at a low point, just as air pools at a high point. Once it gets to the brake calipers and rear cylinders it will boil at 100C to make steam, and cause massive brake failure under heavy sustained braking, just as wet glycol based fluid does, but at a much lower temperature. And as it pools at the bottom of the calipers you can't bleed it out unless you remove the calipers and turn them upside down so that the bleed nipple is at the bottom. Consider the hornets nest open

Glycol based Brake fluid should be changed every two years as it absorbs water, which reduces its boiling point. Water saturated brake fluid can cause sudden brake failure when braking hard and often. Silicone based brake fluid has other issues, but that is another story.

Hi Conor, Welcome to the forum. Keep an eye on Ebay for restoration projects - they come up quite regularly. Your trouble will be the budget - at £600 you will only manage to get a basket case that will require ££££lots of panels replacing. If you can go up a bit, you will get a structurally sound car that needs much less (cheaper) work.