daverclasper

Seems to be a bit a luck in it. I changed the front bearing and both cups, about 8 years and 20 K miles ago on Vit. It was the basic from Canley, about a tenner I think. Holding up so far!

That's what I've wondered about the lifting pin technique at idle being accurate, across rev range?

I won't let the neighbors see me

Probably a mad idea, though some of my windows seals are very old a a bit perished. In summer, car is often on coastal campsites etc, and I assume the UV sunlight is not helping their aging process. So, what about it?

I've often wondered, that the shafts on these independent suspension cars can't be that straight, after all these years?

Would you?, Seems unfair?, if they accept it's not up to standard I guess even with a quality water pump, never used and dry stored for X amount of time, then not good for seals. I think, even quality pumps, if vehicle is parked up for a few years, then pumps often suffer damage?

Used some Hammerite on lower bulkhead a few years ago. Still holding up. It did get a bad rep, some time ago. Maybe improved now?. That looks a very tidy car. Did you restore it?

Life not always as black and white, maybe?

Been using aerosol grease on every connection I can access for past 9 years, now and again. No issues with any connections so far. They were in good nick to start with. Car has lived outside during this time, under a cover

It's very personal, thought the painted inners fat spokes? in varying shades of grey on the replicas, look good to me. also had some on car for 11 years with no probs

Well done. Flipping heck, the problems at times with a supposedly straightforward job of removing a head, and then after, at times the gasket not always sealing, for various reasons!. I don't know much about this, though will that scuff around the edge effect it? Is there a way to address it, aside from a skim?

Which coil is that Pete?

I had above symptoms on J Type, 9 years ago + not disengaging (always ok for first few miles or so). Solenoid, not clacking on a shake. Cleaned out and small o' rings replaced. I did use a bit of oil in the piston, rear area, thinking it would help for the future. A couple of years ago, it started playing up. Went straight for solonoid, sure enough was not clacking, Did same again, though o'rings appeared fine. Didn't use any lube this time (I know it's a moving part!), my thinking that over time, oil may get sticky/dry due to the heat and stop it moving. Who knows?.

Thanks Guys. It was only the rubber flap, from inner wheel arch/bulkhead that had disintegrated and was hanging down, rubbing tyre, in reverse and on lock. Phew!

Thanks Pete. I did wonder about doing that, though thought that maybe when the dizzy shaft is turning when running, the gaps could be different from when static

Thanks, it's put my mind at rest (until the next time!). Will do a strobe test out of interest, if I get the time, as is running points. I do have a Simon BBC? cheap E.I unit, that I took off when tracing a fault years ago, that wasn't due to it. So I could put that back on, as would that eliminate any dizzy shaft play ? (as has always had a few thou's play).

Thanks Pete. I have sprayed the manifold to head joint with brake cleaner around the top area and as much as I could to lower area, though wondered if I had to spray directly at the lower area as well, hence removing the gubbins for access. I did check valve clearances, about a 1000 miles ago, though will check again

Thanks Johny. I had thought about the extra air, I think I need to take the filter box off and also the splash guard of to get proper spray access?. I think, I did mention above, if I should check valve clearance? (I couldn't work out in my head if it would affect it?) ,though don't think I had a response, though I can check them. I have thought about compression, if low then not enough fuel/air drawn in?, so could run weak?. I can check compression.

Hi. I'm aware this is not a counselling forum, though any thoughts to put my mind at ease would be great and I won't hold any individual, or the club responsible for advice, if the piston melted, etc. Cheers, Dave

Thanks Guys

Out of general interest. What are any possible problems on basic/earlier CD 150 Stroms, please Pete

Thanks guys. Will check it out, though I think my blades have a sort of lug at each end that is part of the rubber molding and securers them to the the carriers? (don't know correct name)

I seem to remember that some folk reckon handling improved without them!. Cant remember any details or which model of car though

Mine are old and have never been brill. Had to use wipers today and seemed much worse (maybe skating over the rain drops). Car lives out side under a cover, though will have been baking in the heat a lot this year, so maybe the rubber has hardened even more. Will look at replacing, though don't want to avoid repro, crap rubber if poss. Any non greasy household applications, or non expensive stuff that could soften the rubber for a bit. Cheers

Thanks Colin. It's nowhere near full lock, when it does it. I did alter the bonnet height a wee bit on that side, so will check wheel arch clearance (maybe why I couldn't hear anything, rolling car with bonnet up). Good call, cheers