daverclasper

Thanks. The rocker breather stub doesn't puff smoke. Just found time to look at valve. Has about a 2cm split in diaphragm. Maybe got bigger, as didn't see it when checked it when first started hunting a bit. Hopefully that's the simple issue

Hi Johnny, I thought I would just check both jet's height, anyway, as recommended by Ian, though had read it's not too critical and ok it is very close anyway. The hose was clamped at rocker cover end as mentioned

Well. Did some carb work, checked diaphragms, jet distance from bridge (0.1mm difference). needle bases flush with pistons. Ran it as had to use car anyway. Worse than ever, popping out of exhaust when the hunting/surging revs dropping and on over run. Still accelerating cleanly with good power. Clutching at straws, I wondered if it still could be the PCV valve arrangement (though had previously checked diaphram, and also replaced the hoses with better ones, as were flimsy and distorting under vacuum). Anyway, disconnected hose at rocker cover and clamped it. No hunting etc!. Had to increase idle slightly and idle slightly uneven (as was when I bought car and was breathing open into atmosphere. I never found any reference to PCV causing this issues, so has taking it out of the equation (though blanked off at rocker end it is still connected to manifold) the cause, or just taken away the symptoms of rich running (car has run way over rich before with out these particular symptoms). Does the orientation/position of the valve top plate (with the small breather hole make a difference, I cant see how?). Any checks to do on valve when off the car, eg, blowing, sucking, maybe while blocking inlet/outlet orifices etc?. Cheers and don't know where the red type came from?

Thanks guys. It is what is is then. Defiantly not something to mess with, unless problems, especially as there appears to sometimes be issues when folk replace.

Hi. Just a general interest thing for me (not an accident waiting to happen this time Pete! 😊) On our commonly, cast iron engines is this ever likely to happen?, E.G., if the gasket not been replaced ever/for a long time, not prone to overheating, antifreeze maintained, etc. Actually, I probably don't mind a bit of reassurance, if appropriate 🙂 Cheers ast

Cheers, Paul

Thanks for looking Paul. Just to confirm, the big differences your mentioning, are between the 60s 12/50 and the later recessed 70s one Cheers

Interesting. Would look posh if smooth and varnished I imagine. Or some appropriate painting to re create original?. Out of interest, as I would like to install a sunroof on 67 Vit (if I have the time and can find one at a good price?) though it needs to be age appropriate for me, which is I understand the wing nut style?. Is it possible to interchange the different 60's style handles/modify etc to accept the above does anyone know? The recessed handle, 70's sunroof, maybe a totally different arrangement to modify for earlier style?. Bit specialized this, but any advice great. Thanks, Dave

I bought a couple of circlips from Dave Twigger. If I still have the spare?, I can measure the thickness. If yours is too thick, could it be ground down?, though too fiddley Maybe?

My J type was engaging and disengaging randomly ,(even with solonoid disconnected), would be after a while when driven from cold. Dave Twigger, O.D stuff, in Rugby advised probable issues with solonoid and maybe pressure relief valve, O rings. (PRV valve O rings, very fiddly job) Replaced O rings in both and was fine for about 8 years, car in regular use, though not high mileage. About a year a go had OD not disengaging after a bit of M way running. Went straight for solonoid. Not clicking when shaken. Cleaned out and replaced O rings (though seemed ok), whilst I was there. A bit above my head about how they work, just my personal experience. Oh, one other thing I read recently (not mentioned in my previous, extensive research, I don't think), there is apparently, a narrow oil channel/drilling?, in the righthand side of the solonoid housing, that can get easily get blocked with small bit of crud. Oh, Oh. I lubed the solonoid bottom piston thingy first time, though left dry this time, as I think the lube maybe got hot and dryed, out making it stick?. Who knows?

Very sorry if my above comment caused any offence to you or Fergul, certainly not meant to.

Thanks guys. No problems as such. Just interested in any preventative things to know about. I do like a good worry!😊

I think he looks (as well as feeling) better now🙂

Have you changed the white walls (or sprayed them Triumph black?)

Thanks Colin. Will have a detailed look at the dash

And "quieter", = less wear I guess?

Hi, I have a spare one stashed to restore at sometime. It's stored away from where I live at the moment, though from memory. Some of the switch recesses at rear of board are quite thin material between the bottom and the dash face which has the smaller holes for the switch stalks, from memory about 2mm. Haven't looked at dash for a while, so this is from memory. if you understand what I mean, is this thinness normal?. Thanks, Dave

What's that stand for Pete?

Is there anything that can fail on a mech pump, that introduces petrol into the engine oil? Ta, Dave

That's what I do on Vit with J Type. As I'm a bit of " wrap these old timers in cotton wool ", sort of person (can't afford extra expense/hassle). It does take the romance out of those, "foot to the floor changes", though!. Probably being over cautious, with any small amount of wear, that my low annual mileage incurs anyway?.

Thanks Josef, much appreciated

I assume it will always be a "running weak situation", as that would be logical?

I thought the "lifetime guarantee" professional stuff from Halfords didn't require a receipt?, or that used to be the case?. I did take something back a few years back that had failed, they didn't want to see my receipt replaced it no problem ,

Mine on Vitesse is like that?

Do you have an eBay link for them please Josef?. I can't find them