daverclasper

Hi. Recently developed. Tried rolling the car backwards with some left hand lock, though couldn't hear anything (though was some traffic around) and nothing that was visually obvious Any pointers, as only have a short window to examine car. Cheers

Well, I've had 3 quality car covers over the past 9 years (3rd is still newish), as car is parked on the street. I think I would have had some rot issues with body if not (old seals/poor fit). I think my car had some sort of tough paint/clear coat, which has helped with any moisture (which will happen in winter) and with paint wear, due to cover moving (does have some very fine swirl marks, which are not very noticeable, unless you look hard with the sun on it). So for me, a cover appears to be really positive.

Wow, if it's good, which it could well be (rather than someone just wanting to get rid of a scrap engine easily}

Thanks. I'm dead chuffed car appears to be getting such good mpg (wish I'd leaned if off a lot years ago) Was just concerned about the almost white colour on the one plug (maybe even paler if I did a Motorway plug chop?) and possible damage to that cylinder. I've no idea of the threshold/parameters for possible damage? Cheers

Hi Jon. Keep up the the good work. I'm interested, as I understand the underside only has quite weathered, though definitely non terminal/serious, surface rust. Surprised rot hasn't got into the nooks and crannies, where damp/wet mud can sit for ages, if underside isn't regular scraped/cleaned?

I have seen valves DIY style, connected with a hose from rocker cover and directly from outlet of valve to manifold (with maybe a short coupling length of hose). As long as the hoses/fittings, are sealed and not letting air in, then should work as original fitment. The blanked off hole, would be for a vacuum accessory, e.g. vacuum gauge/brake servo.

Thanks. Sold Colourtune a bit back Johnny, as thought I probably wouldn't use it! Thinking about this, I'm wondering if this cylinder has been running weaker than the others, for a while, though has been masked previously and for a long time by the car running much richer than currently. I'll explain. Car has for the past 9 years of ownership always returned about 33 mpg when cruising at my usual speed of 60mph. Due to the hunting at idle issue (now resolved) I leaned the mixture quite a bit from usual. Car still ran well, so have kept it at that. 300 mile run recently and got 40.2 mpg!. I thought the gauge had started to read optimistic, as it's a journey I do often. Double checked the maths after filling up and Yes, 40.2 mpg. Car has 3/27 diff and overdrive so pretty long legged. I always cruise at 60mph/2500 rpm.

Only just remembered, I think I had this issue (though milder) a few years ago and was advised, it may be around the manifold balance of the carbs, via a connecting tube. Was advised to richen the carb that fed the paler plug, so will give that a go

Are the wheels fitted, is it rolling?. I had a problem to line it up after removing radius arm to replace bushes and coming back to fit a week later. Suspension etc had relaxed backwards. Pete Lewis advised to chock front wheels and very slowly drive car forward to line up. Managed to do it by pulling rear wheel forward then with a chock to lock it and stop it returning rearwards while lining up bolts to brackets. Worked easily for me!

Just thought it could be useful for gearbox as well

Yes Johny, stopped completely

Also Pete, I have been monitoring no 1 plug (and no 2, to compare) three times in the last 200 miles and the difference has been consistent

Yes, though that was sorted before the 300 miles I've just done

That's better Wimpus

Does diesel dry out quickly, as is so oily?. I'm more wondering, if it would help to rejuvenate, old dry underseal (that can cause moisture traps). If it does stay oily, is that a safety issue regarding car fires?

Could "Stag, Wellseal" or "Blue Hylamar" be useful in this application?

I rubbed down the badly painted, gloss paint on my rad and it exposed a couple of close together pin holes in the brass top chamber. Roughed up the area around it and used Araldite. Lasted a year or so. Then used JB Weld. That was 8 years ago and still ok

Hi. No one a very pale grey, all the rest a biscuit colour. I think I read that Nick Jones once had this and it was the inlet manifold leaking a bit of water into the cylinder and cleaning the combustion chamber. Have just done 300 miles of mainly Motorway driving and no noticable loss of coolant with my car. Wondering if anyone had any ideas, seems a bit odd to me?. So, wondering if it is running weaker, will it cause harm?. Could it be too tight valve clearance on that cylinder (no idea myself) Worth trying a cooler plug (by quite a bit, if they are obtainable?.) Any ideas would be great. Thanks

Thanks folks. The DIY diaphragm appears to be working fine. Thought it might be usefull info if others ever have this issue.

Cheers Pete. Just managed it easily on my old dodgy PC (rather than my smart? phone)

I would like to contribute, though the minimum amount appears to be £20, unless I don't understand it, which is likely. I can't stretch to that

Just hoping Pete H, that's it's the PCV valve. Mine are the simplest Strom CD's. Not much to go out out of kilter generally, as far as I know?, especially as car is used regularly so parts are moving, also lowi'sh miles, so less longer term wear on components., Been dead reliable for years after a bit of simple, low cost work initially and getting to learn the in and outs (thanks to this club mainly) PS, I'm actually not by nature an, optimist!.

Brill Pete, thanks

So some excessive end float (without the thrust washers actually dropping out and then damage to block/crank), where the crank is moving more than spec, is not harming the engine in any way?. Genuinely interested.

The original diaphragm has a recess in the moulding that corresponds to the space between the valve body and the plate atop of the spring. I guess this aids diaphragm up and down movement without stressing/stretching the rubber too much and maybe works more effectively?. Anyone tried a flat 0.5mm thickness, flat piece of oil resistant rubber?. Wondering, as the current one only lasted a few years (usual crap rubber). Cheers