daverclasper
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Posts posted by daverclasper
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4 hours ago, Unkel Kunkel said:
They aren't that expensive weighed against how long they are supposed to last and the fact that starters do have a tendency to give trouble on cold wet windy nights when you need to be somewhere else very quickly.
I think I have heard that "new ones" aren't always great?. Maybe more expensive to have it rebuilt by someone reputable, though worth it in the long run?
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2 hours ago, johny said:
You might want to consider going to a higher ratio diff (3.63) at a later date but even this has its down sides...
Interested in the downsides?. I understand it may be the strongest diff?
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Maybe?, if you really want it, could it not be kept under a cover until garage ready?. Just thinking, he may change his mind about selling it, get a better offer?.
Just what I'd do
Mr Cautious
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Looks the biz. Well done that man. Glad it worked out
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On 04/07/2022 at 16:46, Paul H said:
Just finished a sliding roof for my son’s MGB GT . Just got to cut the roof now 😱This roof will also fit the Hera
Looks the the one you bought off me Paul?. Hope it worked out well
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On 03/07/2022 at 17:41, daverclasper said:
Ta. I thought you had used that adjustable tie rod thingy, from the first photo.
Sorry Paul. Me getting confused. The tie rod thingy photo was Rogerguzzi's Spit
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Ta. I thought you had used that adjustable tie rod thingy, from the first photo.
Genuinely interested, as will go for that particular alternator and set up, if I go to the bright side
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6 minutes ago, Paul H said:
Yes the adjustable thingy is the original one from the Dynamo .
I've seen folk use those, though I think original is flat, though with a curved footprint, and corresponding cut out groove, to slide the dynamo for tensioning fan belt?
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Thanks Paul. so just two fastenings, that and the adjustable tension thingy you have?
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6 hours ago, Paul H said:
I found I didn’t need any brackets and the pulley is included . Not sure how your 13/60 compares to the Vitesse and pics are of the setup
Was that using the original C40 L dynamo mounting brackets on for the block, do you know Paul?. It looks like the tensioning one is a generic adjustable cable thingy?
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21 hours ago, paul fosh said:
had a look will order, do you know which type i need for the boot mark cheers paul
I think Baines sell boot seals for the Spitfire, wondered if these same profile for Herald/Vitesse?. If so, need to make sure its the right length, as they probably will cut to size.
If you find out any info would be grateful for sharing, as could do with one myself, (my Ebay one started to perish after about 2 years).
I did ask on here if anyone with both cars was able to compare profiles, though no response.
PS, Bill Davis (Rarebits for Classics) still has quality/correct door seals at reasonable price I understand, though I think maybe only advertises through a Face Book page. I bought some off him about 8 years ago and still ok.
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On 24/06/2022 at 21:03, Pete Lewis said:
there is also the possibility of over stroking the clutch
What is over stroking and why is it bad Pete, if easy to answer?
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I've just squirted some oil through the hole now and again. Not as good as grease I guess?.
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3 hours ago, Chris A said:
The only racing I do is to the toilet when I have a stomach bug!
Your doing well. I do find myself getting caught on the hop. Especially near a loo or home when it comes on massive for some phycological reason. Key fumbling in the front door, undoing my pants going up the stairs, still don't always quite make it.
Apologies for too much information (though maybe better than being anal?)
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I do use ramps with sections of scaff board for "non wheel off work". Bit less faff for me, and gives a good height for doing chassis maintenance, etc
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On 21/06/2022 at 13:43, Iain T said:
I had creaky polybush suspension, I oiled all the bushes took it for a spin and oiled 'em again and so far no creaks. By oil I mean liberally squirt oil on them!
So oil penetrated into the "bearing surfaces" of the fitted bushes?
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To seal under holes, Iv'e used a rolled up bit of thin card, with the finger of a rubber/ surgical glove over it.
Yes, I reckon Waxoyl, does hold water when it dries out, bit like a sponge.
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On 07/06/2022 at 20:39, johny said:
To help the box last when driving try to get into 4th gear as soon possible and then accelerate. Unfortunately this doesnt make for fast get aways and overtakes but in 4th no gears or needle roller bearings are loaded so wear is greatly reduced....
I wondered about this driving style/concept regarding reducing G/B wear, though my 2 litre Vitesse has more torque than Herald and also had/has a 3.27 diff fitted when I bought it.
So not sure if going through the gears, a bit of mauling after an early 4th, or low cruising speed in 4th is a good idea?.
Also, as well as the 3.27 diff, it had a J Type Overdrive fitted at the same time. Can the O/D suffer, if used at low speeds, say for eg, cruising at 40 mph?
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I can't see this has been mentioned?. A washer is needed, I think, inside the angle drive ferrule at the O/D end. Pete can advise on this I think?, though not a special washer. Without it, wrecks the A/D, I understand
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25 minutes ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said:
I know there are advocates (sensible people) of assessing the effect of a single change but I’m planning to simultaneously change condenser, plugs and coil. No real reason to doubt any of these but I’m otherwise running out of ideas.
Maybe worth taking the spares out and when car is hot changing one at a time at the roadside, if you can be bothered?. You should then have spares for the future that you know should be working
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My original one on Vitesse started smoking about 5 years ago. Bought a replacement from Moss (about £22, I think?), as only a bit dearer than other suppliers and local, so I thought any problems easier to sort out. There was a note in the box that said the wiring colour coding not correct, so connect it this way. Not inspiring, though switch has been fine.
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Probably needs a bit of re commissioning to make it reliable, though piece of mind regarding the usual bodgery you often get and a great place to start.
Good panel gaps. I've seen a few of these low mileage, original cars with good fitting panels. Annoys me when the casual media and public with no knowledge, often say they were made with poor fitting panels.
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49 minutes ago, Iain T said:
off and pull the arms along the shaft to see any wear or strip it down completely.
I had wear on my shaft, I think it showed in the lower area, where the shaft is under the pressure of the springs?. I think this is also the area of the shaft, that has the grooves/scrolls that feeds the oil to this area and were non existent. The worn areas were not feeding oil , as showed visually when idling with cover off. Replaced shaft (rocker bores don't tend to wear as much, I understand?) and was ok.
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3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
support the brg hsg in a vice and belt seven bells out on the shaft to remove it
Always wondered about this if I understand it correctly?. If it's a tight bearing on the shaft, then does it not stress the race a lot, as the load is taken up by the inner bearing area/part?.
Starter Motor
in Engine
Posted
Cheers Wagger, that's interesting