daverclasper
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Posts posted by daverclasper
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On 14/12/2021 at 16:22, Jon J 1250 said:
Would only really advise putting stands under main chassis rails front and back,
Would that include front/rear crossmembers as ok?, if jacking centrally.
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Really nice job Paul. Hope the GT6 one goes well (especially, as I sold it to you!).
I think folk have used 1mm angle grinder discs, I don't know if the generated heat would cause distortion, wouldn't have thought so?, maybe do a bit at a time, different sides?. Drill four corner holes first, though you probably know that.
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"When I were a lad", used to push a lolly stick into the coin slot in phone boxes
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It is as you say, at the water pump end.
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On 21/03/2022 at 16:52, Gary Flinn said:
Summers on the way and it's about time Vitesse values went up.
I'd prefer them to stay low, keeps the car less nick'able, maybe cheaper to insure, though I understand, if some folk do see it as more personnel financial security in the longer run.
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Brill, glad you got there
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Thanks. Pretty sure it was a rubber seal
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It does sound too good to be true and wary myself (though those S Wales club members do seem to be knowledgeable, and are trustworthy about Rocket Dog, who maybe do a lot of work for them). Who knows?
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Hi. It is GB oil, rather than engine oil that is leakinf. Am I right in thinking it can only be the imput shaft seal in the bell housing, or the lower BH to GB screw, that has a copper washer?.
It's started leaking in the past year. It's a 3 rail bitza, with J Type overdrive, rebuilt by Mike Papworth, that I refitted about 7 years ago.
I understand there's a breather on these boxes, though not clear where it is. I guess it's worth checking if it's blocked before removing GB.
WARNING. Mines been leaking for past year and only shows as a patch on the floor of about one and a half inches after driving, and doesn't appear to spread after driving, once the oil has cooled down. THOUGH IT TOOK AT LEAST HALF A LITRE TO TOP UP, and was full before the leak. I was surprised it was this low, so maybe a good idea to check pretty regularly, if you have a leaky one.
Dave
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I can see maybe how grease might escape from hubs or shaft UJ's, though not the steering rack?, and oil from front trunnions would stay put? and also not let water in if the top seals are good?
In the olden days, I understand grease would harden faster and needed replenishing, though not so nowadays.
I still do my trunnions and grease points, though around, every couple of years, as car only does around 1500/2000 miles per year. Dare I say this is adequate, or even overkill?.
Genuinely interested
Ta, Dave
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Been using the oil can method for a few years, seem very effective, though I understand folk like tinkering and tools.
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Thanks for info, I think they were originally fixed with steel/chromed headed rivets?.
Did you fit with standard rivets?.
PS, also heard of folk using plastic take away containers?
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Few things I understand can affect the expansion bottle working.
Cap must be sealing top and bottom (Also bottom seal must seating on the lower filler neck flange, as there are different lengths of cap, mine was too short and I spaced it out with a thick washer, with an extra seal underneath it).
The hose must have no leaks.
The top of filler neck must be flat, or the cap top seal, won't.
I had all these issues, though now fine
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On 22/03/2022 at 15:28, johny said:
or maybe the new bushes were bolted up tight in the air rather than when the car is back on the ground so effectively locking them in the wrong positions?
I'm pretty sure the Poly Bushes swivel on the the crush tube, unlike originals, so not an issue?
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12 hours ago, ahebron said:
Easiest way to get to the sidelamp at present is through a headlight hole.
Brill, will remember that, as need to remove mine and de-rust and maybe, chrome paint?, the insides.
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On 18/03/2022 at 17:32, Colin Lindsay said:
although those two bolts on the overdrive mount were a nightmare to tighten up
I did manage on mine, with longer nosed locking pliers (that stopped against the O/D casing, when tightening the nut) on the bolt head. Not sure if yours is this problem scenario?.
Those longer nosed locking pliers have been really useful, for loads of things
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On 16/03/2022 at 12:31, Pete Lewis said:
one old trick is fit the wheel only fit the nuts half on and sit on the floor and whack the wheel up the studs
but this only works on hubs that wont to come off , the swing axle triumpg hub on a taper has a very strong conection to the shaft
Is this a feasible alternative to not having a proper hub puller Pete, without causing any damage to anything?, as I gather they are on massively tight.
Never had to do one, yet!
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I may have just had a new (lucky) one I bought about 9 years ago (couldn't find a rubber diaphragm to rebuild original), the supplier (who manufactures them), recommended leaving in open position when not in use. I also open it, at least for a few miles every time I use car to keep it flowing and clean through valve and matrix.
No problems so far (there, I've said it now!).
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21 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
cant see a problem with splitting the halves when clean and new 0 rings after all they were put together by humans on the assy line
Often wondered that, when you can do cylinder rebuilds, without it appearing to be a "no no"?.
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On 12/03/2022 at 17:26, Chris A said:
Currently E85 is 0.90€ per litre when the proper stuff is at 2.00€ locally.
I'm Intrigued?, do folk buy the expensive stuff and if so, why?
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1 hour ago, Bfg said:
^ That looks OK ..I think ! ?
Really good, I would prefer it to vinyl personally, though I have an aversion to it, when it is for aesthetics only, eg roofs
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21 hours ago, daverclasper said:
There's a good U tube (Trev's Blog) where he works on a pretty bad respray and the result appears really good.
PS, Oh, by the way, I was in no way implying your work was like this, more a bad scenario, that can maybe, be pulled back, so not necessarily the end of the world if things don't go to plan 😃
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Well done with painting. There's a good U tube (Trev's Blog) where he works on a pretty bad respray and the result appears really good. just flatting down and the polishing done in stages. Also he has 2 vids on flatting down runs using body filler1, which is good, I thought.
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5 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
I accept an alternator does not look like a dynamo but they are cheap reliable
Yes, though maybe not. If buying off the shelf, cheap, yes, though a lot of recent info on here that they maybe don't last long at all?
Idle issues
in Fuel System
Posted
Would appreciate more explaining please Pete, if all needles for a particular carb are the same diameter at idle and mixture set at idle , then, how does this allow for the different needle profiles through out the rev range?. Some basics, I'm not understanding.
cheers