daverclasper
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Posts posted by daverclasper
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Bit of Wellseal/Blue hylamar for looser, non close fitting threads?
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On 10/05/2022 at 10:03, NonMember said:
What you can do, and is worthwhile, is to put a tub under the carb, take the chamber off (five or six long screws), then operate the fuel pump and check that fuel flows all the way past the valve.
That's a good idea, never heard it before. Some repair books (not W.S manuals), give some tips and tricks, though would love a book with all that non official insider Knowledge.
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1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:
a hex plug can have a better life but being a parallel thread does need a sealing washer and the flat face to seal properly
Good point Pete
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4 minutes ago, PeteH said:
Look for one that uses an "Allen" type fitting.?
I have the 1" hex magnetics on engine sump, GB, Diff. Always been easy to undo.
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Well Alan, I never knew if it was either the solonoid or PRV, or could have been both I guess?. I think Dave Twigger thought the PRV may have caused the self engagement?
I thought I may as well do both and also check both filters while OD sump plate off for PRV, though filters not bad at all.
If you do use Buckeye info, I think they have the PRV and the pump access plugs position mixed up (from memory). Also I used a hammer and punch to unscrew them, rather than the home made tool.
Also when solonoid is off, it is maybe worth checking the small narrow oil passageway in that area is clear, a poke with a bit of wire I understand
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When I bought car 9 years ago, J type fine on test run and again for first few miles of driving, after which it would often not engage, not disengage and even engage of own accord. I disconnected solonoid and would still engage.
Spoke to Dave Twigger, OD spares of rugby, who was very helpful. Suggested in may be just the solonoid (dirty piston thing sticky/hard O rings) though also the pressure relief valve, hard O rings (very fiddley job to replace, info on buckeye Triumph web site). Did both jobs, held my breath, and it was fine for about 7 years. Two years ago started to not disengage at times. Just removed solonoid this time, it was not clacking when shaking it (no good for Bez), cleaned it and replaced all the O rings again as a matter of course. I didn't lube the piston thing this time, as wondered if the lube had got hot and made it it prone to sticking?.
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On 08/05/2022 at 11:55, Iain T said:
A photo of my rockers, you can see the tappet screws are nearly fully up and without the pedestal shims it runs out of adjustment. As I said the rockers arc from say 9 o'clock to 7 when they should theoretically be 10 to 8 ie equally from the horizontal. At valve open, say 7 o'clock, the screws are so high they sometimes even touch the pressed steel cover. Correcting the rocker geometry would solve the cover problem.
Iain's rocker assembly etc looks far cleaner that mine (which are kind of blackened, maybe by lack of oil changes in the past?, or are Iain's above averagely, super clean?).
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Ahh, thanks
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On 03/05/2022 at 20:11, PeteH said:
I am thinking, it may have to be hardened up BEFORE hardening up the Exhaust and Inlet manifold Bolts?.
Never heard of this hardening before on manifolds/bolts etc. What is it please?
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22 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Have you considered poly trunnion bushes? No need for all the tin plates and rubber rings, just two polyurethane bushes that slide in with a tube in the middle. I've fitted them to two Heralds recently and while it's too soon to tell how they perform long term it saves a lot of faffing about when fitting.
Yes, less faf. Also the standard replacements I used at first didn't last at all. The Polys, about twice the price of standard a few years ago.
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A bit of an funny one. Rare parts can have have value, though if the vehicle is rare and it's not something that hardly ever needs replacing. Then what value?
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42 minutes ago, NonMember said:
There's a tool you can buy which holds a razor blade flat with the surface you push it over. The idea is that it slices off the bumps of paint, leaving a very-nearly-flat surface that can be polished.
Seems a daft question, but would a general razor not approach that?
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How strange to fill the "what probably are the wiper/screen wash holes" without some communication first?
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Well done, hope it's good now
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Just something that I noticed on my 6. A couple of plugs (same 2 plugs, though at different times), often looked a bit oily if I took plugs out. I think this was after some slow/traffic running. I did notice a petrol smell from the plugs and put it down to petrol soaked soot?, so assumed that the cylinders for those plugs were sealed in the combustion chamber on ignition cut off and the fuel that was spurted in did not evaporate quickly?. just an off the wall theory?
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On 19/04/2022 at 16:58, NonMember said:
I'm not sure topping the gearbox really needs to be that regular a service thing.
Mine developed a leak about a year ago, mainly after a run, when the oil gets hot. Just a little puddle, about 1 inch diameter, on a plate I put under car.
Car used fairly regularly, though only about 1500 miles a year.
Never had to top up before this leak, and was surprised when it took about 2 and a half cups of oil to fill.
Maybe losing more when driving and oil hot and maybe some pressure?
Just a warning to maybe check more often, if you do have leak.
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6 hours ago, Tom said:
Am I right about tightening the Suspension bolts in the loaded postion?
I understand that with standard bushes, yes. With Poly bushes, the bush is free moving around the crush tube, so not necessary.
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8 hours ago, NonMember said:
If a car for sale is good and sound but needs a full respray, then a potential buyer may even value it higher than one with a fresh coat of the wrong colour that could be hiding all manner of bodges
That buyer would be me. Unless I was satisfied about the reason it was painted/how good the work (prep, regarding rust etc) was done, I would be very cautious. Sooner buy a car that hadn't been touched for years, and was honest, if it appeared basically sound.
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Thanks Colin. It's more the scenario, when draining to replace a hose, etc and need to re-use the coolant and keep it clean, so even a slow drain from bottom hose, generally runs onto the valance first on Vitesse (from memory?), which is a bit waxoyl/dirt, grubby.
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6 minutes ago, Josef said:
Partly an improvement as I’ve been worried about accidentally opening the radiator drain every time I’ve turned the engine while checking the valve clearances!
I wish mine opened easily, it doesn't look in a bad state?, though daren't try a bit of force.
It's just messy to drain from bottom hose, unless I figure out some type of large funnel, Heath Robinson arrangement?
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On Stroms (at least), I have read that, the Choke operates the throttle to begin with and then raises the piston for more fuel.
Never checked this with the air filter off myself.
If true, then can be used to increase the idle if need be, in hot, slow moving conditions I assume?.
Sorry, I'm not able to highlight and quote the relevant sections above on this phone?, that my reply, relates to.
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On 14/04/2022 at 16:21, Bfg said:
I'm really impressed with how Lucas produced such good quality OE equipment, that cost so little and yet has lasted so well, despite it having been fitted and forgotten, with little or no maintenance in all that time.
Same here. lucas appear to have a bad name.
My first three cars were 10+year old Heralds, very badly neglected bangers.
First one failed first MOT on terminal corrosion (my uncle, car dealer sold it me very cheap, with an MOT?).
Second got nicked.
Third, scrapped it (before I learnt some mechanics), as trunnion collapsed, at low speed.
I don't remember any failed electrics during that time.
Current car for past 9 years is a Vitesse. I do grease the loom connections and I think it may have been re-wired at some time, as is in great nick and all how it should be.
Only problem in that time, has been a failed indicator switch, and rear light bulb, even Lucas fuse box has been fine.
There, I've done it know, be breaking down every week.
So hats off to Lucas, from my experience.
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Hi. Will be moving the arm/arms soon. I gather there's a small clip which is part of the arm assembly. Is it a case of prising the clip open and at the same time levering the arm up, off the splines?.
Is this straight forward, any tips?, or potential problems, eg, arm fused to splines with corrosion/clip disintegrating through corrosion?.
Cheers, Dave
Bullet Connector Crimping
in Electrical System
Posted
Is that a health tip for the present, to go often (W.. or P..)?, or sorry you may not be able make it too the loo in the future?