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daverclasper

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Posts posted by daverclasper

  1. Just bought a what appears a decent PCV hose for Vitesse.

    in Engine

    Posted

    It's the S shaped one. Not fitted yet, though is reinforced and appears very sturdy, The last replacement was collapsing under vacuum and was kinking as not correct size. Listed on a big saloon Ebay site, though I think same PN for other cars.

    Was £8 delivered, so a lot cheaper than the more upgraded/specialized material hose, offered by another supplier.

    Had what appeared genuine good reviews.

    If interested will give details of supplier (no connection to them)

  2. How often should ignition parts be replaced as a matter of course?

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Well I noticed that that the points had a very weak spark, when cranking. On inspection the fixed sparking contact bit was black, the movable contact not. I gave the surfaces a quick file and points sparking better while cranking (though yellow colour?).

    Also now had a (yellow with a bit of blue) spark at plugs. Engine fired reasonably quickly without the recent small cough and starter pinion releasing straightaway, though was still lumpy and not firing on all cylinders for 20 secs or so (has never done this until recently).

    Wondering if points past there best?, or maybe condenser causing the blackness/possible burning?.

    If parts need substituting, then would prefer to do one at a time and see  if it improves, rather than replace a few things at a time, that are maybe ok anyway? A few clues may be good as what to start on. I have most in my breakdown box anyway, so don't have to buy and no big hurry at the moment.

    Could a failing coil be contributing to these symptoms?.

    Mixture (good plug colour) and timing are pretty good (no pinking and plenty of power) once car warmed up.

    Waiting for new plugs and will fit these, as current ones maybe past their best anyway.

    Any thoughts much appreciated.

    Thanks

     

     

  3. Spitfire 1500, Diff drain.

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    5 hours ago, Badwolf said:

    s that the same size as the sump and gearbox drains? Making all the drains the same size means that you should always have a spare plug...... somewhere

    That's ideal. With my ltd experience of thread cutting, I would go small, so more chance of rectifying. Even so can't bring myself to have a go.

    Car only does low/laid back mileage anyway, so have just syringed out, most of old oil on occasion  

  4. Coping with storms.

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    On 11/12/2021 at 07:51, PeteH said:

    AND they know their countries history, albeit not as far back as the UK goes.

    I don't know loads about history of USA, though I assume the land/country had one before then?.

    I feel, how history is taught anyway, is generally, is very one sided?

    Just a few thoughts.

  6. How often should ignition parts be replaced as a matter of course?

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Thanks. I did change the dizzy cap and leads for ones that came off of a spare dizzy. They looked ok?, though unknown.

    Did'nt make any difference at all that I could tell, I thought there may have been some difference. The rotor arm checked out ok, though replaced this also with NOS one.

    Thinking maybe the plugs are the main culprits, though is it likely, most/all have gone dodgy at the same time?.

  7. How often should ignition parts be replaced as a matter of course?

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Hi. Is there a guide line for the different consumables regarding mileage/years? (Maybe sooner for modern remanufactured parts).

    For example, I gather plugs every 10,000 miles?, though do they deteriorate with age as well?.

    Condenser, I was told years ago, don't replace, unless it's failed?.

    My coil is probably original, that potentially ok?

    I've heard that one individual has never known HT leads to fail?.

    What about points, as long as no pip?.

    Interested, as had to get home start out (requested an older person). I did some basic testing before and checked out ok until the dizzy cap to plugs (no spark). It eventually started with his booster pack and spraying carb cleaner, after much cranking. Ran really rough for ages and no 1 cylinder not firing at all (cold manifold branch confirming this). All cylinders smoothed out eventually.

    Mechanic thought it was odd, it was so very difficult to start, as once warmed up was running really well, so he thought it was set up ok and no obvious complete failure of particular parts, though recommended I at least change plugs and HT leads.

    Wondered if anyone had views on this please, as will replace whatever it needs, in the name of reliability if this is appropriate?.

    Cheers, Dave

     

     

     

  9. Damp weather affecting ignition system?.

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Thanks for info. Pete, you mentioned the balance pipe plugs, which would cause a big intake of air. I was wondering if a smaller leak from maybe the PCV hose/s could weaken mixture enough to upset starting to this extent and also cause the hunting?, or even a manifold gasket leak?. I thought probably not, as car runs and starts fine when warm, though just checking.

    Anything wrong with squirting petrol into carbs to aid starting?, I know some folk do.

  10. Damp weather affecting ignition system?.

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    3 hours ago, NonMember said:

    Have you tried thumping the float chambers incase the valves have stuck shut? It does sound like no fuel getting through. It's also (just) possible the splitter pipe is blocked. Also, try filling the air cleaner with EasyStart (or WD40) and see whether it starts on that (even if it only runs for a second, that would confirm a fuel problem).

    Thanks folks. I did wonder about the float valves (though both sticking)?., they aren't that old (well about 6 years). Car is used all year round, with some regular good runs. Never see any dirt in filter, I feel the whole systems pretty clean?.

    Will check spark, though it seems odd the plugs so dry, after a lot of cranking on choke, is that normal?.

    Will try carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Is it worth/better taking the the filter box off and spraying directly into carbs?.

    Have a trip booked on Fri, so if I can get it running just for that, would be good. Only car, so won't be able to go, otherwise.

    Cheers, Dave

  11. Damp weather affecting ignition system?.

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Thank for your replies.

    Well. Not sure I understand this. 

    Did a few things I thought might have helped with better starting.

    Car didn't even attempt to start.

    Before checking if plugs sparking (bit awkward as was on my own and no solonoid start button), I had a look at all the plugs, about 5 mins after lots of cranking and bone dry. I assumed they should be wet?.

    Grapped a passer bye and he cranked while I checked for fuel just where the pipe seperates for both carbs. Healthly looking spurts, the same as I've seen in the past.

    I can check for sparking, when my glamourous assistant is around tom, though does this seem like fuelling?.

    As viewed from the carb bodies the Choke lifter bar spindles are moving and fast idle cam is moving the throttles.

    Just recently the car has been hunting for a minute or two after starting until warmed/off choke. Could this be related?

    After warming the car has been running really well, the (dry) plugs were also a nice biscuit colour.

    Cheers, Dave

  12. Damp weather affecting ignition system?.

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Hi. I used to use the car at least once a week until this winter, when it may be 2 weeks plus. Car is under a cover on the road.

    Has been a bit more difficult to start lately and this week, only just managed to start it. It cranks over for a while, then tries to start, though as soon as it coughs, the bendix withdraws, so wont keep on cranking. When is does eventually manage to get running, it sounds like only running on 1/2 cylinders, until you nurse for a a good few seconds until the other cylinders begin to kick in.

    Been very damp weather lately the car has been sitting in, so is a spray of WD/40 inside dizzy, plug leads inside caps and  along leads, around coil, etc, worth a try?, before further adjustment/investigation/replacement of consumables.

    Thanks, Dave 

      

  13. General advice on expected engine life before rebuild required

    in Engine

    Posted

    On 29/12/2021 at 19:26, Pete Lewis said:

    many modern spec filters  are for much higher premium pumps   theres plenty of discussion  on here about  this but the filter does need to be matched to pump performance  volume/ pressure  for a known  pressure drop etc 

    cheap solution is fit a std filter and check any change

    I've just been using the ones recommended on this site Pete, Mann etc. Are these sort of, standard?

  14. Do I need a new distributor

    in Engine

    Posted

    4 hours ago, cliff.b said:

    This is a "carefully chosen" set of 3 X primary springs & 2 X secondary from which they claim a "wide variety of curves are possible".

    The bob weight springs are the same size I understand?, are these the primary and the vacuum spring the secondary?.

    Thanks Dave  

  15. Car stopped dead

    in Engine

    Posted

    1 hour ago, sulzerman said:

    Took out ignition switch while test lamp was on coil+ and battery-, all good not even a flicker on the lamp.

    You could maybe bypass switch with a wire from battery +  to coil + (remove switch + from coil), if you still have problems, to see if it behaves?.

    I think it's ok to do this, stop car by stalling and remove wire, or disconnect battery, to stop coil burning out when finished driving?.

    Not sure if this a good idea, just something I thought off?

    • Like 1

  18. Spitfire Locking Fuel Cap

    in Fuel System

    Posted

    22 hours ago, Mathew said:

    Nice idea, it might be the same as locking the doors though? More damage done to the car to get what they want. I'm bound to be set upon for that comment but please don't take it in a bad way. It would stop the opportunity thief just not the one with a long screwdriver or crowbar, poping the whole unit out. With the resulting damage to the deck.

    I had a WASO locking cap wrenched off. luckily, only damage to cap and not the filler neck.

    Also I don't lock doors, as easy to lever front quarter lights anyway, or damage locks?

  19. Spitfire Locking Fuel Cap

    in Fuel System

    Posted

    10 hours ago, Mathew said:

    Agreed, only lock the doors when the hardtop is on! It took the aa man 2 hours to get into the spitfire when i accidentally locked the keys in the car when visiting my dad in the nineties.

    That's a long time?, though doing it carefully, so no damage?

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