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daverclasper

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Posts posted by daverclasper

  1. Thanks Guys, still not working after your info, my phones a Samsung J4, about 14 months old, no idea why not?.

    The "choose files" button on my PC  gives me load of options, though would have been handy to use phone for photos and use them straight away, on forum. 

    Can try my girlfriends I phone, if need be, so maybe not the end of the world 

     

  2. Thanks. I think its charging ok, though haven't been using it with lights etc much, as only fitted it a few weeks ago.

    I think I read on here that a larger than usual battery can struggle to get fully charged, that's why I asked. I do keep it charged when not in use.

    Cheers, that's put my mind at rest, though not for wars and global warming, etc🙂

  3. On 01/03/2022 at 12:25, Pete Lewis said:

    its good parcatice to disconnect the battery and ground both terminals to the body/chassis when welding  on a car ( or anything similar ) 

    Hi Pete. Not clear on this, I always disconnect battery terminals, when welding anyway, so the the battery is isolated out of the equation. Which cables?, are we grounding here?. Cant get my head around it?.

    Cheers, Dave  

  4. Also I read (old Courier article I think?) of gluing a length of extra seal on the front section of door where the shape sort of twists. Also where water can run down the small channel/groove of the seal area inside the car then run along the bottom of seal, until it over flow in the car (I did have what looked like this issue?). Member suggested to drill small drain holes along the bottom groove.

    I haven't used these methods, as it's a lot better since I tweaked the flange/seals as above. I did a bit more tweaking yesterday and see how it goes, next time in heavy rain?

  5. Hi Iain. I did replace the bubble seals (incorrect, though sold by most suppliers) with ones from Bill Davies (Rare Bits For classics). I think he maybe still trades via EBay?,  Baines I think may have simular profiles?. This was more to to with the doors closing more easily and not bieng out of line when closed, as tend to stick out more. From what I can gather, the P seal is correct and helps. Runs from top of screen piller to around the top hinge.  Glued to screen piller and below on the A postand, sort of tucked under the front of main seal, if that makes sense?.

    • Thanks 1
  6. 3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

    there should be a welded "brace" across the gap just rear of the NDV   has this split open/parted   ??

    Hi. Where is this visible from please?. Does this only affect only water going into, inside of door? 

    I have fitted the internal curtains (I used building bags) which has cured the the rain that will always get into the door? from running down inside the door cards and then into car.

    Also I removed the carpets about 7 years ago, as loads of water getting in when in heavy rain, have been improving it since (a thin bit of sturdy cellophane between the door and seals to check gaps) and tapping out the seal flange to make seal closer to door and moving the seals forward from the flange a bit at that front door section).

    Last time in heavy rain, I just had a bit of water in rear O.S side footwell and just today I tapped out at flange at top of rear glass area, as was a small gap at top 3 inches. Will see how it goes?.

    They probably leaked from new?

    Maybe very difficult to make totally watertight?.

    Cheers, Dave

     

      

  7. On 20/02/2022 at 22:21, Andrew said:

    Would it just be easier and more reliable to just buy a new tank?

    Could be, though some haven't got the budget, and part of the enjoyment can be in actually restoring, rather than throwing money/always replacing.

    Also the materials and actual build quality can often be suspect on new parts 

    • Like 1
  8. I've had great results with Acetic acid powder in wall paper paste as a much cheaper and more effective alt to Jenonite, etc, gells (be aware the powder, when added seems to make the paste more runny). Can also be mixed with water for a more dipping (also in the tank?) type process, though not tried myself (see Trevs blog on U tube for info).

    If a tank is de-rusted, then, assume the bare steel is the same as when it left the factory, Ie, no other coating applied?.

     

     

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