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daverclasper

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Posts posted by daverclasper

  1. 3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    People always talk of matching number cars where all components are the originals, so where a Triumph with its' original rebuilt engine is always going to be considered worth more than a replacement unit

    It is completely irrational, though I do like that my Vit has org engine (maybe due the engine, considered the heart of the car?), (and to a much lesser extent, things like wiper motor, dynamo, dizzy, as well, A good chance org, as same date stamp on them as car year?). Though as GB is a J Type O.D bitza, I'm just glad it has an O.D.

    It's definitely, not a value issue, more, I'm just probably a bit higher on the Spectrum, than average, which is ok.   

  2. Those the shiny metalic ones?

    On Stroms wonder if you could use these? remove the old, dirty, factory impregnated paper from the filter/s and use a cable tie on the outer area to hold in place. Not sure about the inner area?

    Also would it upset the standard required air flow for the mixture?.

  3. These are used for different aspects/reasons of Triumph/Classic car involvement and maybe serve that purpose.

    However, I have noticed that technical/mechanical etc, advice can often be sometimes sketchy/wrong, though this is thankfully, sometimes picked up, by more knowledgeable users.

    I sometimes reply, if it's an area I have some knowledge about.

    Was thinking it could be a better idea to reply, that it may be better, to direct individuals to go to non social media forums, eg TSSC/CT for better/more thorough (and also alternative, general advice in some other areas) advice.

    I thought this may promote clubs membership and also help some folk, to not at times be despairing about fixing their cars, and would therefore, help promote classic car use in general?.

    Cheers, Dave   

      

  4. 4 hours ago, Ian Smith said:

    One of the problems with Webers & Dellortos was foaming, caused by people  overdoing the manifold securing nuts.

    Is that specific to those carbs, as such, as not heard of this as a general issue on carbs before and ,maybe, therefore not relevant with more common, run of the mill carbs/applications?

    Ta Dave

  5. 48 minutes ago, Iain T said:

    That's a FIAT with Russian steel! 

    Was the Russian steel as bad on the Lada's though?, maybe they were getting a cheeky one, over on the West, with the crap exported stuff?.

    Also Fiat at that time had crap steel anyway, Russian?, or was that the joke, that Ladas/Fiat, had the same crap steel😃

  6. On 31/10/2021 at 11:48, Colin Lindsay said:

    (idling just soots up the plugs)

    Is that the same for Stroms, especially old, worn a bit, carbs (though needles and jets not old and just a bit of spindle play, though would have assumed play would have made, if anything, a bit more weak at idle). just wondering, as on Pete's previous advice I have been gradually leaning off mixture, to help with stumbley running/more difficult starting, in slow moving/city/traffic jams on hot days.

    Has helped a good bit so far and ongoing (though cold weather now so will leave it until next year).

    Don't want to lean off too much though for faster driving (can it cause damage to these engines), or would be obvious, missing/hesitant/or when accelerating, pinking maybe?.

    No big deal as such, just like learning and improving hopefully, on the finer details of the basics 

    Cheers  

  7. On 30/10/2021 at 21:56, iana said:

    the radiator has a small seeping leak on the top connection - can this be fixed with JB Weld or am i best getting it properly fixed?

    Hi Iana. Good your enjoying the car.

    I had a small leak on the top surface of rad top section. Cleaned it up with coarse paper (keys better). Still ok 6 years later.

    One thing I have noticed with my JB weld (still got my original tube, don't now if it it has a shelf life?), is it's a bit runny, so say, on a side/bottom repair it tends to run off. So maybe remove rad to re orientate, if needed. 

    • Thanks 1
  8. Thanks

    Had recently bought a cheaper (as prop only to use on one pipe) horse shoe one wondering if is fit for purpose (aside from bieng cheap).

    On the description it had various metric sizes and their imperial equivalents. The size stamped 5mm, which is its actual size, is implied to be ok for 3/16", whereas 3/16" is 4.76mm.  So 0.24 mm too large using the tool on my pipe.

    I since noticed simular priced tools that are actual imperial sizes.

    If this did seal, would it hold up under heavy braking?.

    What do you think, return it, stating the above reasons?.

    Thanks

  9. Hi. What size are the pipes on Vit (cant find info in W.S manuals) and does this correspond to the size of the dies, eg a quarter" pipe (if thats the outer diameter and that's how the size of pipe is specified), would need a die stamped as quarter", even though the male die area would be a smaller size?.

    The pipe locking part of the tool would be the same, eg, hole stamped a quarter" takes a pipe of quarter" outer diameter pipe?, I imagine.

    Hope this makes sense.

    Thanks

  10. Thanks a lot for all info.

    Thanks for looking Pete, I have noticed another no in the casting, same place, at other end. Bit unclear, though looks like V2735.

    Are there any oneline sites I could look at, do you know please?. I have Googled, but not found anything specific 

    Thanks Dave 

     

  11. Hi. Bought C.H very cheap. Its the 1st generation, with the external push rod tubes, though want to make certain it's compatable with the original engine in my Vit Mk1 2Litre. Its has the no, 306475, cast ,in relief on the front end/ top of head, in the rocker area. Does this give a clue?.

    Thanks, Dave

  12. Thanks for the replies, very useful.

    Have been looking at any very cheap and rough looking gauges for sale on Ebay, as a sort of challenge and I enjoy restoring stuff, if it can/may be done cheaply (also may want to fit a volt meter, at some point).

    Aside from the risk of it not working, which I would take a punt on, I didn't know of the face being so vulnerable.   

    So food for thought.

    Cheers, Dave 

     

  13. Hi. Smiths Volt meter and temp gauges. If these are looking past it by the state of the bodies, being quite, to pretty rusty, may they possibly be salvaged, by time rather than parts/specialist knowledge/ equipment? 

  14. 2 hours ago, PeteH said:

    Pretty much.

    The first C-B`s to hit the UK, illegal imports form the USA, caused a couple of near miss accidents, as the frequency used was the same as that used by Radio control models (27mghz).

    https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=cw+mccall+convoy

    Spawned the Film with Kris Kristofferson. Ali McGraw was quite tasty.

    Pete

    Thanks, but what has that to do with the the price of "big end washers"?😊

    • Haha 1
  15. 21 minutes ago, PeteH said:

    In effect? Yes. If it`s like my venerable Britool torque wrench, then yes after the "click" the tool is then just a bar!

    Thanks. So were ok, gradually going around different torque fastenings (eg CH) until one clicks, then back off the spring to carry on, until another fastening clicks, and then back off again, and continue like this?.

    To maybe sum up, after a click, always back off, to loosen spring to continue with any remaining fastenings?. 

  16. 1 hour ago, Mathew said:

    The other mistake is not stopping when it clicks

    Very Interested, especially for the crucial setting. 

    Do you mean it will keep on tightening after the first click?, as even if it reset it's self, would it not click again straightaway at the original torque  setting?.

    Dave

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