daverclasper
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Posts posted by daverclasper
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2 hours ago, NonMember said:
Sure, if you're a snowflake that's been brought up to believe you can never be wrong and anyone correcting you is being offensive and insulting,
NM. I had thought you, particularly, could see more, than using this ,"generally right wing terminology", I think?, in the standard way, that maybe isn't healthy for us all.
Hope I wasn't correcting too much, as I probably do, fall into the "general" snowflake category, I imagine🙂
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On 19/10/2021 at 18:09, dougbgt6 said:
no negative vibs man.
that should be "Viiiib,sssss,,,,Maaaannn", or something like that
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Thanks for "richness" reply Colin, sorry it caused you such a long answer😊
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Well done Colin, great work. I have a smile with a regular MOT pass, yours was prob massive.
While I'm here, was wondering about the running rich causing oil burning/smoke.
Was it so rich that it was diluting any oil in combustion chamber.
Interested as when mine has been too rich, It's just black, unburnt petrol smoke, I think?.
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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
side window rubbers no idea but a browse through all the extrusions C O Baines make might find one you can replicate
I wondered about Baines profiles for Vit saloon rear window, just need an offside. Seem pricy and only sold in pairs, and pos crap regarding fit and quality of rubber from main suppliers?.
Any ideas of best product/technique, to glue the joints if I bought a longer section from them?.
Cheers, Dave
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I have used a decorating heat gun on alloy, get it hot so it expands, and use penetrating fluid, may take a few goes but has worked well in the past.
Have been wary of hot gas flames on alloy myself?, though I think folk do use it?
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2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
It makes a lot of sense, and it's why you'll spot me in the local Autofactors
Thanks folks, that helps.
I wish we still had small local Autofactors (though we do have Europarts, etc, though maybe there stuff is in sealed packets, so can't try it?).
I live in Bristol and certainly not any small shops nearby anymore.
NM, the sizes were just a, off the top my head example, so no relevance to any particular applications.
Cheers, Dave
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They normally seem to self tighten in use?
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Hi. This is about me making sure the clip will go on a hose and also clamp it when buying.
So, if a jubilee clip has for example a stated sizing of, 9mm to 14mm, does that mean a hose with an E.D within that range will generally clamp up ok, or is the 9mm the max the clamping diameter, therefore a hose of E.D 9mm would not clamp up sufficiently?.
Phew, hope you understand what I mean?.
Cheers, Dave
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I think I remember?, something about using valve seals successfully (can't remember which car from) to address worn carb bodies/spindles.
Can remember how they did it, as it would alter the spacing for the spindle attachments I assume?.
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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
just needs a simple jig to support the two halves while the luverly jumbly sets
or a good description on here of How To ????
Maybe a good example of what could be included in a new " Tips and Tricks" heading/section, which there has maybe been resistance to implementing in the past I feel?, for some reason?.
Surely it could be as useful, as for example the "spotted" section, though I can't say how used it would be?.
What do you DIY folk, without a thick check book, who use the cars a fair bit and need some reliability think?.
Dave
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Hi. I replaced these a bit back, though are poor quality.
Some Poly replacements are on the shopping list, though in the meantime I was planning to use some better hose I have knocking about. This hose is straight and valve won't be fastened as is usual.
It is approx 10mm I.D and will sqeeze on the stubs, though the original hose looks approx 13mm I.D.
Will this affect how the engine runs?.
Thanks Dave
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Thanks. Also is the deck approx 1mm gauge, as I think the rest of body panels are?
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Thanks folks, good to know.
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Hi. Have done some welding of thicker stuff, though want to butt weld a small section/hole of in the corner of deck under the rear seat.
I know distortion not such an issue on this job, though interested any alternatives to using an compressor air line (haven't got one) to cool down the weld areas quickly when doing short individual welds, spaced out around the joint.
Thanks, Dave
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4 hours ago, Chris A said:
is the work required to do the swap over
I've got one that came as a spare with Vitesse. Restored it myself and looks good I reckon.
Car is very straight I reckon and was well restored to originality a while back with attention to detail (not even found a rogue fastening yet!), and all the gubbins and wiring look clean and tidy behind dash, looking underneath so hopefully straight forward!.
Anything to bear in mind or tips, when doing swap please?, I imagine it's a bit of a faff, at least?.
Cheers, Dave
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11 hours ago, Peter Truman said:
How do you stop the rubber outer sleeve internal sprung tube
Hi. Wasn't aware of this!, what the hell, is it?.
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Maybe have a look at the plugs after running with the issue. Can tell a fair bit. Wished I had done that after problems, as I replaced most of ignition.
A look at the plugs would have showed cylinders 1,2,3 (6 cylinder) engine running massively rich, which would pretty much be a fuel issue.
As it was I had replaced air filter upside down and blocked air into carb
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6 hours ago, 68vitesse said:
but original has reinforcing rings on end and middle holes
Yes I noticed those on my old one, which I replaced as leaking a bit on the 2 outer exhaust seals.
Did wonder about replacement not having them?, and only 3, which were, 2 outer exh, and central inlet, as your photo Paul.
Interested what the purpose of the copper rings/seals?.
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
also the filler neck any dents or distortion will not seat the seal
That was my main issue (also the overflow hose maybe leaking air at filler neck), the top of filler neck not quite flat, used some fine ish wet and dry on a sanding block.
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Thanks for that. Very useful
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Hi. Not a question about the virtues (or not) of these.
May have to disconnect and reconnect a few.
I understand they are pushed in tightly and correspondingly take a bit of getting out?
Do I need a special tool, or alternative/adapted tool etc.
Cheers, Dave
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Just seen Colins post. Prob worth using
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See my last post before your last, though yours apparently posted before mine!
1st 'breakdown!
in General
Posted · Edited by daverclasper
Very Interested, especially for the crucial setting.
Do you mean it will keep on tightening after the first click?, as even if it reset it's self, would it not click again straightaway at the original torque setting?.
Dave