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daverclasper

TSSC Member
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Everything posted by daverclasper

  1. I like the look of the red one. Maybe unbutchered/not bodged?, unlike a lot over years. I would just T cut and polish and spruce up a bit to keep original and show/reflect it's previous life. Of course, it does need a proper look at.
  2. Hi. Just fitted a new one. Used Blue hylomar as a sealant. Do you just tighten cover until the cork compresses a couple of mm, as it's quite chunky please?. Thanks, Dave
  3. Also bought mine from Canley. Cheapest I could find by quite a bit, also the bolts and nuts kit. (normally have to cut through the bolts if been on for a while). Paul did you mean the trunnion leaks, rather than the VL?. I used Araldite on the outer edge of outside face of the bottom cap of trunnion to seal. Been fine. Dave
  4. Were the nipples very corroded Doug. Seems a bit ham fisted to break them maybe. Usually a little bit of time and technique gets them out.
  5. I know. Hate crimes on Muslims in UK reportedly up by 40% in last 12 months. There must be much more stuff, for eg, abuse in the street, that's not reported. Awful. Dave
  6. Thanks. A lot of my miles are around Bristol and the surfaces have been terrible for the past few years. Also do a lot of kerb parking (as does everyone in the street as fire engines/bin trucks etc wouldn't be able to pass). Maybe contributing?.
  7. Wasn't an article about this. Just a sentence or two included in something else. Sorry, can't remember.
  8. Hi and thanks. Doing this job tom. Last time I did it, I I also to removed the trunnions to check condition of vertical links, which involved removing the hub. Just wondering how much disassembly I need to do, to just change the bushes?, if anyone knows please. Have manuals, but they tend to go into complete disassembly. Cheers, Dave
  9. I reckon you could take out the gouges as mentioned and just flat down to a very fine grade wet and dry and then polish up with Autosol. From my experience this then, doesn't oxidize for ages. Haven't bothered on my car, as not that noticeable and shows the cars has/had a life. Dave
  10. Hi, Does fitting one of these liberate much BHP. Just read my new courier and some one fitted one to a Spit and had 10 more BHP!, compared with the metal fan. Even if this result was at the crank it seems surprising I thought. Thanks, Dave
  11. Thanks. The Super/Poly ones I bought, I questioned with Paddocks, as they don't have the end caps/seal ring. they said they just have washers as not needed on these ones. Could this be, because they they are softer (like wishbone bushes) and compress some if the crush tubes allow this and therefore don't ingress water between the trunnion/crush tube?. Or do I need to refit the old caps/seals. Dave
  12. Oh dear. they are red ones, which I hope are firmer. Well, I don't push the car at all, so maybe not the end of the world, or hopefully even a few people!. What where the originals made from?. Dave
  13. Hi. Replaced mine on Vitesse about 3 years and 9,000 ago. There is now play in both, pretty bad on nearside. Bit the bullet and ordered some Superflex ones, (about £12 more for both sides from Paddocks) as it's a bit of a faf to replace as often as this. I think I read that Canley, don't stock Super/Poly ones for trunnions as not necessary. Maybe I was unlucky?, though thought it might be useful info for others. Dave
  14. Hi. Related question I think. If the supply to the starter/earth is dodgy, can jump leads be clipped direct to starter from battery to crank?. Thanks, Dave
  15. Hi Roger. Thanks. There are 2 gunmetal Vitesses on Ebay at the mo. The 1 for £11000 looks to me to be the correct colour. Gunmetal is more of a blue than a grey, though mine looks more greyish in sunlight!. I do have some photo's from when I bought the car that I can email you if you don't giving me your email address (don't know if you can PM on this site). Dave
  16. Hi. This is my current car. Has anyone here owned it in the past?, there is some history which implied a TSSC member had it at some time. Any info on it's history would be great please. Thanks, Dave
  17. As well as tyres, I think brake hydraulics (certainly the master cylinder) can be an accident waiting to happen if the cars been standing for a while. An MOT would not show this up necessarily, unless they went pop during the heavy pressure on the the system during the brake test. Dave
  18. Thanks everyone. Used the ply and cable ties for now (quite fiddly). Seat not back in car, though feels noticeably harder on the old deri, in the living room. Foam on it's way out, so that's maybe not helping. Dave
  19. "Who are those Guys", who make it. There's a racing rad for a ford Galaxie 500, which is an early 60's Merican car, though most stuff is post millennium.
  20. Any answers to last post please?. Thanks, Dave
  21. Do you think Araldite/JB Weld may be ok for a more temp fix. (I tend to use handbrake lightly, and leave in gear most of the time). I'm attending a City/Guilds level 1 MIG course at the moment using top welders, though when I practice at home on my gasless Liddle cheap welder it just ain't that great. Cheers, Dave
  22. Thanks. Will sort them out. Not sure how to do the seal on the filler cap, as it's not obvious how it comes apart. Iv'e seem a cap available for Vitesse, but these don't have the top cap that is a breather I think. Would it matter. Dave
  23. Thanks Pete. Do you think those issues I mentioned in my last post could be causing the pinking please?. Dave
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