daverclasper

Also bought mine from Canley. Cheapest I could find by quite a bit, also the bolts and nuts kit. (normally have to cut through the bolts if been on for a while). Paul did you mean the trunnion leaks, rather than the VL?. I used Araldite on the outer edge of outside face of the bottom cap of trunnion to seal. Been fine. Dave

Were the nipples very corroded Doug. Seems a bit ham fisted to break them maybe. Usually a little bit of time and technique gets them out.

I know. Hate crimes on Muslims in UK reportedly up by 40% in last 12 months. There must be much more stuff, for eg, abuse in the street, that's not reported. Awful. Dave

Thanks. A lot of my miles are around Bristol and the surfaces have been terrible for the past few years. Also do a lot of kerb parking (as does everyone in the street as fire engines/bin trucks etc wouldn't be able to pass). Maybe contributing?.

Wasn't an article about this. Just a sentence or two included in something else. Sorry, can't remember.

Hi and thanks. Doing this job tom. Last time I did it, I I also to removed the trunnions to check condition of vertical links, which involved removing the hub. Just wondering how much disassembly I need to do, to just change the bushes?, if anyone knows please. Have manuals, but they tend to go into complete disassembly. Cheers, Dave

Bloody hell !

I reckon you could take out the gouges as mentioned and just flat down to a very fine grade wet and dry and then polish up with Autosol. From my experience this then, doesn't oxidize for ages. Haven't bothered on my car, as not that noticeable and shows the cars has/had a life. Dave

Hi, Does fitting one of these liberate much BHP. Just read my new courier and some one fitted one to a Spit and had 10 more BHP!, compared with the metal fan. Even if this result was at the crank it seems surprising I thought. Thanks, Dave

Thanks. The Super/Poly ones I bought, I questioned with Paddocks, as they don't have the end caps/seal ring. they said they just have washers as not needed on these ones. Could this be, because they they are softer (like wishbone bushes) and compress some if the crush tubes allow this and therefore don't ingress water between the trunnion/crush tube?. Or do I need to refit the old caps/seals. Dave

Oh dear. they are red ones, which I hope are firmer. Well, I don't push the car at all, so maybe not the end of the world, or hopefully even a few people!. What where the originals made from?. Dave

Hi. Replaced mine on Vitesse about 3 years and 9,000 ago. There is now play in both, pretty bad on nearside. Bit the bullet and ordered some Superflex ones, (about £12 more for both sides from Paddocks) as it's a bit of a faf to replace as often as this. I think I read that Canley, don't stock Super/Poly ones for trunnions as not necessary. Maybe I was unlucky?, though thought it might be useful info for others. Dave

Hi. Related question I think. If the supply to the starter/earth is dodgy, can jump leads be clipped direct to starter from battery to crank?. Thanks, Dave

Hi Roger. Thanks. There are 2 gunmetal Vitesses on Ebay at the mo. The 1 for £11000 looks to me to be the correct colour. Gunmetal is more of a blue than a grey, though mine looks more greyish in sunlight!. I do have some photo's from when I bought the car that I can email you if you don't giving me your email address (don't know if you can PM on this site). Dave

Hi. This is my current car. Has anyone here owned it in the past?, there is some history which implied a TSSC member had it at some time. Any info on it's history would be great please. Thanks, Dave

What's a bodger please?. Dave

As well as tyres, I think brake hydraulics (certainly the master cylinder) can be an accident waiting to happen if the cars been standing for a while. An MOT would not show this up necessarily, unless they went pop during the heavy pressure on the the system during the brake test. Dave

Thanks everyone. Used the ply and cable ties for now (quite fiddly). Seat not back in car, though feels noticeably harder on the old deri, in the living room. Foam on it's way out, so that's maybe not helping. Dave

"Who are those Guys", who make it. There's a racing rad for a ford Galaxie 500, which is an early 60's Merican car, though most stuff is post millennium.

Any answers to last post please?. Thanks, Dave

Do you think Araldite/JB Weld may be ok for a more temp fix. (I tend to use handbrake lightly, and leave in gear most of the time). I'm attending a City/Guilds level 1 MIG course at the moment using top welders, though when I practice at home on my gasless Liddle cheap welder it just ain't that great. Cheers, Dave

Thanks. Will sort them out. Not sure how to do the seal on the filler cap, as it's not obvious how it comes apart. Iv'e seem a cap available for Vitesse, but these don't have the top cap that is a breather I think. Would it matter. Dave

Thanks Pete. Do you think those issues I mentioned in my last post could be causing the pinking please?. Dave

Thanks Pete. This has got me thinking. The rocker cover gasket is tired and broke in a couple of places (no oil leaks, as there is quite a bit of suction when you put your hand over the filler neck). Also the rubber seal on the filler cap has split (not sure if this can replaced easily as the cap looks like it doesn't come apart easily?). The hose's for the PCV valve are also tired and could well be leaking a bit. Could all these be upsetting things. I don't quite understand manifold vacuum and what it does, I don't think it's mentioned in my collection of car maintenance books. Cheers, Dave

One of my brake plates is like that. I think it sometimes sticks if the car not moved for a bit and there is a thump when I first brake as the cylinder suddenly moves. Dave