daverclasper

Just the pinking. Assumed it was timing related. Dizzy clamp is not loose by the way. About 1 and 3/4" depth of 20/50 engine oil in each dashpot. Correct disc thingies that secure the carb diaphrams (the lighter ones for Vit Mk1 2 litre). Don't know if the springs are doing their job (if I can find out what the correct length should be and measure mine, would this be useful). Mixture looks ok, going off plug colour (apart from one plug that looks as if it running a bit weaker, as mentioned in a previous thread, though that was no 6 cylinder, which is now looking ok and No 1 cylinder now looking a bit weak !). I do have a quite a chunky generic vacuum/pressure gauge. though not sure if this would be suitable. I have the original breather valve plumbed between the rocker cover and top of inlet manifold arrangement. Thanks, Dave

Hi and thanks for all your input. Hope all this lot may be relevant and not too boring Went for another run out yesterday for about 10 miles on A roads. Pinking again on higher revs and under load on gradients. Retarded on the vernier for return journey (5 clicks and then another 5 as was still pinking a bit) only done about 50 miles, since I last knocked it back. Car starts ok from cold and when warm just a quick flick of the starter. I use tesco 99 RON all the time. Vacuum advance moving point plates when pipe is sucked and holding vacuum. Outer shaft has what feels like about 4 thou side movement (did have electronic ignition on car ages ago and couldn't notice any difference in how it ran compared to points). Checked points. contacts good and gap still correct (last adjusted a few thou miles ago). Outer shaft moves anti clock wise and returns, though not quite all the way (about 1mm short of rotational movement when looking down at the cams, if this makes sense). Have always kept it lubed with a few drops of oil down the top. Maybe centrifugal springs a bit weak?. The rotor arm key is a bit worn, so the arm will turn a bit on the shaft, though is not loose as such, and arm appears to stay in the same position (has been a reliable arm, so reluctant to change it). No strobe gun to see whats happening at different revs, though will get one if useful?. I could strip dizzy down and see if any wear anywhere else, if that's useful?. Cheers, Dave

Hi. I do about 2/3 hundred miles of slow city driving, then go on trip every 8 weeks, or so, Often motorway, The car will then pink on harder acceleration and climbing gradients. I retard the timing 5/10 clicks on the vernier and ok. Then the same thing will thing will happen after a couple of hundred miles. Pinking, then retarding. Why might this be please.?. Dave

Hi. Was the push up visor an extra and how useful is it please. Thanks Dave

Yes, a whoopee cushion, Then I can blame it on that and the farm we just passed.

Thanks chaps. will use the curtains idea for the time being, and the ply idea sounds good. around 6mm thick do you think?. Dave

Hi. Cash a bit tight at the mo. Anyone made their own from anything else?. Thanks, Dave

Seen those in Aldi in the past and wondered if were any good. Thought I'd bite the bullet, but none in Local store.?

Hi. I have just bought a couple of front seats, very cheap, off a 67 Herald 12/50. Have looked at parts diagrams from Canley and Rimmer. though can't find frame part no's, for the frames. My Vitesse (Mk1 2 Litre) is a 67. Does anyone if the seat frames are the same as 12/50, or any other, more structural differences , apart from foam etc, as would like to have a go at restoring these 12/50 seats in my own time, so my car is still on the road. Any advice, great, Thanks. Dave

Yes Doug. Blocked that air inlet off myself, by fitting a filter upside down. Would run ok from cold then terrible when warm. Thought it likely to be ignition related until I noticed a lot of flooding and rook the air box off and it stared me in the face. First thing I will do in the future when having running problems, is look at the plugs to see which may be soaked it petrol. If I had done this, then would have tracked the problem much quicker (at least I now have spares for all the ignition system!). Dave

Thanks guys. It is a rubber seal, so hopefully of that vintage, engine oil won't muller it? Dave

Hi. After getting fed up with modern ones falling to bits, I bought a 70s/80s one from a car boot for a couple of quid. Wondering if it's worth lubing the internal rubber seal/bore, with a bit of brake fluid, to keep things smooth?. Thanks, Dave

I had a part tin supplied with car, of what I assumed was celly (as the brush cleaned well with celly thinners). only thing I noticed when using a brush, was that it starts to dry very quickly (especially in warm weather), so if doing bit more area, than a small touch up it has to go on quick. Dave

I have always found them fine (if cleaned and electrical greased) and I prefer their older world charm. Dave

Thanks a lot everyone. Wow. Hidden code access. Bit different from our old car handbooks, that are pretty informative and geared for DIY. I wonder why most folk don't do work on their cars anymore (even if it is more complex/simpler if a computer tells you any faults)?. Cheers, Dave

Thanks a lot guys. Dave

Hi. My girlfriends daughters Mini Cooper had an engine fault light come on, that apparently means the engines only running at half power !. She thought it felt like it wasn't running right, though the light disappeared and is now running ok. Any idea what what all this gobodygook could mean please. Thanks, Dave

Hi. I need to remove a manifold bolt, that has rusted into the head. The thread of bolt is accessible, where it goes into head. I was thinking of using mapp gas torch to heat, then quashing with water/pen fluid, to shock it free. Any problems doing this with it being cast iron, please. Thanks, Dave

I voted remain. Get that bottle cracked.

Goodness!. I hope it doesn't take longer when uk is out then. Dave

Not sure about (jokey comment from Colin) the " Remain " thing. I thought it was us, who wanted to get away from, them?. Also, because of more (currently at least), ease of access to markets between countries, maybe a kit like that is not so important, as was years ago (access the supplier, via the net) and get a spare part in a few days)?. Dave

My original rubbers looked dodgy as they looked perished at the ends, so I replaced. Apparently (I found out later), if they are old originals, they can be ok for years looking like this. Maybe a waste of time and money, that I replaced them. Dave

Thanks Only used "professionals"three times in my life when I had less experience and all were unbelievably bad through lack of skill/knowledge. In all cases I ended up sorting it myself after doing research. I must have been unlucky as there will be good mechanics out there. That is hopeful Gully, cheers. Dave

I used Canley, for Vitesse. They were Polybush and had a good reputation from previous users. They were also the cheapest at the time. This was a couple of years ago Dave.

Thanks Pete. Fingers crossed. I meant to write 300 miles, not 3000. Dave