daverclasper

Thanks Guys. Will give it a test when I have some free time Dave

Thanks for the response folks. I think I read the figures correctly for Mk1 2 Litre in FWM at deceleration, at the crank 4,600 RPM = Min 15/Max 19 advance 6,400 RPM = Min 16/Max 20 advance So around 19.5 max advance at 6000 RPM possibly give or take. This appears way different from above graph which I'm reading as about 32 advance at 6000 RPM?. Yours, confused

Hi. Thought I would give the mapping a go as suggested and bought a second hand (though unused) Gunsons Neontune strobe. The FWM gives figures at 500, 600, 1500, 2300, 4600, 6400 RPM. What's safe to go up to please?, bearing in mind my engine is well used. Thanks, Dave

Thanks. Did wonder if it may be that. If I jack up one side of rear so wheel off ground. Run the car in gear with clutch in, and if the wheel is turning, then is clutch dragging?. Cheers, Dave

Cheers for the link Pete. Have O/D box, quite heavy on Vit. Did manage to remove/fit on my own last time, though wondered if that kit would help with alignment?. Dave

I did try some heat. Maybe just a very tight interference shaft to bearing?. I guess a slide hammer could have worked as the bearing to case wasn't too tight.

Hi. Had very occasional issue for yonks, with balking a bit, taking out of reverse. Yesterday it was completely stuck. Turned engine off and came out easily. Ok for rest of day. Also, always had issue of balking going into 1st (even after Mike Papworth rebuild, for other issues). About maybe, 1 out of 30 times. Any thoughts please. Cheers, Dave

Hi. With regard to removing the output shaft from the case. Some folks have said the shaft will tap through the bearing quite easily. Mine required a lot of heavy whacks with a dead blow hammer. I was concerned about how much this may have stressed the bearing race, so replaced the bearing and on refit, tapped it along the shaft with a longish, strong tube with a diameter not bigger than the inner bearing face I seem to remember. There may be other/better way of removing?. Dave

Cheers Pete Dave

Hi Pete. Does that attach to any trolley Jack (mines Halfords). Also what's it called, so I can search, please. Thanks, Dave

Is that a bit of a brown tinge mixed with the soot in the plug colour?. No 2 and 5 plugs also can also run a bit richer. My plugs are a bit browner than that plus some soot, when I slow move/idle around the city I live, though go a grey colour (apparently modern fuels give this colour?), with no soot on a run. Dave

I've always fancied a pit, as handy for quite a few jobs (apart from oil changes which I find easy with the car at rest anyway). Dave

Nick. NOS. Is that particularly relevant to the earlier manifold gaskets, with maybe a marginal clamping setup?. Also, some suggestions on using 2 gaskets if they are the repro's. Any thoughts on this anyone?. Dave

Hi Colin. Your probably aware anyway, but there's a person on Ebay ("numpty9", sorry don't know how to do links) selling some NOS (I think) items for TR7's, thought it might be useful?. Dave

I normally use petrol/brake cleaner etc and an old toothbrush (not wire brush) to clean soot/oil off plugs

Iv'e always found the top rad hose to be pretty hot when running at normal temp. Is your heater return hose at least warm when the valve is open (apparently even when there is some flow through the matrix, it can still be partially blocked and not generating enough heat though).

Thanks for that chaps. Have just bought it. Cheers, Dave

Hi. This book appears to be the bible. Not looking to highly tune my engine, more looking at an understanding of basic carb/dizzy issues/improvements, that may affect/improve healthy engine running. Any folk read this one please. I'm quite used to working with the basic settings, explained in the manuals etc. wondering if this book goes into more specific detail about how worn engines/dizzy's/carb's affect running Thanks, Dave

Great Brian. What was the cost of the engine work, if you don't mind me asking. Dave

I have been tinkering with the timing using this, across a range of maybe about 40 clicks. Whilst browsing one of my old car maintenance books in the small room, it stated, not to go more than 6 clicks either way, using the vernier. Is this correct please?. Thanks, Dave

Hi. Guessing these don't dampen the rising of the piston much, like the dashpot does?. Or can they lose tension and weaken acceleration mixture please?. Thanks, Dave

You beat me to the punch angel

Myself, I wouldn't change sensors, unless you thought there was a problem. Also repro/secondhand parts can be suspect. Also, then do you then replace the gauges in case they are suspect. Dave

Thanks folks. My multi-meter has a resistance range of 200 ,2k, 20k, 200k, 2m. What setting please. Also, will + and - probe be ok on either of the threaded main contact stubs. Cheers, Dave

Hi. just took a punt on an old Lucas one (square type) as a spare for £1.00, that was apparently working when removed !. (copies are crap I understand?). Could I test if this is switching by 12v to the smaller connection prong that's on it's own (rather than the 2 that are part of the starter cable bridge) and earth to solenoid body?, please. I'm just listening for a click I guess?. Thanks, Dave