daverclasper

After I took into account pad face wear (doing the worn ones, by feel, comparing it to known good gaps), I eliminated tappet noise. Some time after I noticed the first 6 or 7 rockers (front half on engine, furthest away from oil feed into shaft at rear) weren't dribbling oil from top holes at idle. stripped down rockers and the oil holes were clear, though shaft very worn at front of shaft, progressing along it to rear. New shaft sorted the oil feed. Didn't appear to make any difference to noise (where the area of wear is on shaft, corresponds to where the load/pressure is on shaft/rockers due to the valve springs I think?, so maybe this also doesn't make it noisy/rattly with wear?. . I used my old rockers, as apparently the shaft wears more and new rockers may not be good quality, as isn't, probably the new shaft (£25.00), Better ones may be available for around £75.00, Chris witter I think supplies them, though maybe others?. Dave

Hi Paul. The fixing that is drilled near the diff, I decided I would drill 2 drain holes (a couple of months later) at the lowest point at each end of that chassis section in case a bit of water had now got in via the fixing. A fair bit of water drained out. Maybe worth doing while your under there with your drill. Dave

Iv'e got a WASO on Vit. It is quality and looks it (though bulky looking would rather have a slim one). A while back someone forced it off a nicked petrol. It is nacked for locking now though still on and glad they they didn't muller the tank filler lugs. Nicking petrol not common now, maybe because the modern car fillers have that syphon stop thingy. I guess a locking cap would stop a bit random vandalism.

Yes Colin. Any tips on searching please

Hi Paul. That's the same one off Mark that I have, shows the parts.

Hi. Not aware of any (apart from black plastic) that are available new. They do come up on ebay. I think any model Vit/Herald is the same (not sure if a Spit/GT6 one is the same). It has to have the 3 locating/locking tabs. Dave

Goodness. Not thought of that. I suppose unless crunched the shafts stay true, if your suspensions up to scratch, or can age cause metal fatigue that causes untrueness? Dave

Thanks Nick. Did a routine check of wheel bearings about a month ago. Had the usual amount of play. The stub axle is more worn a bit on the underside, so about 2mm of play at the rims on the vertical plane, and about 1mm on the horizontal planes. I could check them again to see if play has suddenly increased, if locking the pedal down technique hasen't worked in the longer term. Not had chance to use the car yet. Just wondering. Could locking the pedal down have expelled any air in the system by forcing it out up river at the M/C. Also can air get in the system, if systems not dismantled eg, via leaks, though I'm assuming mine isn't leaking, as would have lost pressure when locked down?. Cheers, Dave

Hi Paul. That is made by Watling and is the best one, as far as I know. They still make them for Vit/Herald and for lots of other cars, and supply spare parts. They emailed me the parts list and fitting instructions for me (I can forward the email to you if you want) or contact they yourself. When I bought mine secondhand, it was complete except for the 2 crush tubes that fit inside the ends of each boot outrigger. You have to drill the holes for this. Watling supplied me with 2, though they are simple to make if you have a suitable bit of steel tubing. I found I wasn't using mine and took it off, as I thought, even though it would protect the car in a slow bump, a heavier rear end crunch may bend the chassis?. Also they are quite a bit of extra weight if it's not been used. Dave

Hi, and thanks a lot everyone for brill advice. Did Rogers tip of locking the pedal down, as simple first. I did it for 48 hours. Released it 7 hours ago and had firmed up. Still good now, though not used car, looking hopeful (thanks Roger). Calipers are original as far as I know, and seals are at least 5 years old (since I got the car), so maybe getting hard?. Let you know how it goes. PS. Maybe a good idea to do this now and again anyway, to help avoid rear brake cylinder/caliper pistons etc sticking?, and also may help, detect any seals that may be ready to fail?. Cheers, Dave

Hi. This has gradually developed in the past couple of weeks. If I release pedal and press down again immediately, it has firmed up, though a couple of seconds later if pressed again, it will be back to longer travel. I have adjusted the shoes, no difference. If I press down on pedal hard and hold it, it doesn't sink further and I don't appear to have lost any fluid. Rear cylinders replaced a couple of years ago. Only thing done on brakes recently was new front pads a few months ago. Air in system?/Master cylinder issue?, or any other ideas please, to work on. Thanks, Dave

Hi. I thought that sealant maybe not a good idea (unless pretty flaxable) as the joint will move about a bit?. Cheers, Dave

Stayed in Porlock over the weekend. The hill was closed anyway due to snow etc. Some good driving roads around there though. Only spoiled by the person who walked on my roof in the night. 4 areas dented a bit. Surprised as a very quite village and slightly well to do. I live in an area of Bristol that has a bit of a rep and no problems in 5 years of it parked in the street. Dave

I know your joking/chocking!, Pete, but could it may be the case, slightly different tolerances on carbs/cables etc, making slight difference, as well as ambient temp?.

Hi. That is a good article. I wasn't aware that the suck bores (tank to pump) were larger than pump to carb bores. He sited GT6, though wondering if that is same for Vitesse?. Just wondering the reason for this (larger bore needed to deliver enough fuel as a longer run from tank to pump)?. I just bought a metre of the smaller 1/4", thinking this would do the whole run!. Cheers, Dave

Ahh. Thank you both Dave

Hi and good luck with the car. It looks good. What exactly are these window channel inserts, any part no?, please. Thanks, Dave

Hi Pete. No CV on com plate or log book. It was picked up as a CV by one insurer (ins done online), though I spoke to them and they altered details to saloon. Since then I have arranged ins direct with brokers over the phone with car details and not been a problem. Shall I try to contact Bern myself and see if anything can be done, if he doesn't mind, to prevent any further confusion. Thanks, Dave

It does, though unless someone had forged the above paper work (unlikely?), I think it says more than a possible fake bulkhead tag (easy?) and maybe a log book off another vehicle (just switch the no plates, back in the day, and no, I haven't ever done this myself). Cheers, Dave

Thanks a lot. Mines a Mk1, so may look at changing the radius arm to Poly Bush (I already have them) at the same time, when weathers warmer, as car lives/is fixed on the street. Dave

Mine is Vit saloon, though comes up as convertible on insurance data base's for some reason. I have the original bill of sale/dealer stamp book, which specifies it's a saloon. Dave

Hi. I don't think mine are seized as such, though this seems to be a common problem (Vitesse, etc) and difficult to take apart, due to corrosion?. Worth looking at next time I the rear up (no jokes), for preventative maintenance, as in, seeing if bolts can be freed and then copper lube. Or anything else to look for please?. Thanks, Dave

Hi. Replaced mine on Vitesse about 3 years and 9,000 ago. There is now play in both, pretty bad on nearside. Bit the bullet and ordered some Superflex ones, (about £12 more for both sides from Paddocks) as it's a bit of a faf to replace as often as this. I think I read that Canley, don't stock Super/Poly ones for trunnions as not necessary. Maybe I was unlucky?, though thought it might be useful info for others. Dave

What a muppet. Like the exiteer, I overheard saying, We were once a great empire, no reason why we can't be again. It beggars belief, worse than that, It's frightening.

Referring to, that the all potential voters, may have been misinformed, not given enough info on the implications, to make an informed choice to remain or leave. Cheers, Dave