daverclasper

Hi. Before I replaced the very worn shaft, my valve gaps were stable over 1000's of miles. Car has now done about 3000 since new shaft and seems to be getting progressively more tappety. Sounds like more than just one cylinder. Could this down to old rockers bedding in to new shaft (hopefully new shaft isn't like cheese and wearing quickly). Cheers, Dave

Hi. Lost one of the coloured cap and spikey washer thingy that holds it and also the screw on Vitesse, though imagine used on other models. Can't see there sold anywhere. Has any one used an alternative. Been looking at cutting the top off pen caps etc to paint for trim colour, not found anything suitable. Any idea on the washer thing. Bit trivial, but would like to sort it. Cheers, Dave

Sorry about that Adrian. Dave

The carb big piston that alters the needle height should rest on the bridge (ie no gap) when engine not running. If is sticking, then the jet could need centralising to the needle (plenty info on the net about this and 150's in general, Buckeye is a good site). I have also had them sticking, when I have had the main top of carb off and had the diaphragm removed. To get This ok I have had to screw the top 4 screws a bit at a time alternatively, while checking with each turn of screw the piston is still dropping freely and backing of screw a bit and trying another. Bit of a faf. Of course if there is any crap in the bore, then this could make the piston stick. Like others have said, need to trawl through the basics, regarding set up, and no air leaks, etc. These are very simple carbs, and removing the internals, is straightforward (speaking about the early 150), not sure if the later's more involved Dave.

Hi, Just measured mine 122.4. Mine catches slightly on the right. It looks like there may be a slight bit of tub spread on the right. Is the theory, that as it spreads out at the B post, it draws the rear top of the wing in?. Cheers, Dave

Hi. It did cure mine with a pretty slack spring. I wonder if a bit stronger spring would work without starting the clutch to slip, as its easy to try. Dave

Funnily enough, this week a guy came over to chat about my Vit. He used to be a welder and said the first time he jacked one up, was oh s..., what have I done. Didn't feel any better when he lowered it. Dave

I don't understand why some folk, under seal the whole underneath of bonnet, not like it's a rust trap. Maybe sound deadening?. Dave

Hi. Just wondering, as I'm assuming those those comp reading are pointing to valves/cylinders being ok and therefore intake manifold small leak still possible, would it be worth nipping the manifold nuts up slightly for no 6 with a torque wrench. I did undo one side nut to fit bracket for the breather valve as car didn't have one a while back and tightened it by feel, on the cautious side (as it looks like those bracket things could bend), as couldn't find torque wrench at time. Even if it improved for a short time only, may tell me something?. Dave

Sorry Pete. thought you mean't fitting them back to front for possible closer fit. Dave

Thanks John. I was sort of chuffed with those tests across the bores, as not done this test ever before, and my car does use a bit off oil . So, maybe not compression/valve intake related. Will think about air induction related with the manifold and Nicks possible coolent issue into manifold. I have done the spraying around no 6 intake manifold and didn't notice a difference, though my idle is irregular at around 700 revs and maybe hard to show a difference, could raise to maybe around a 1000 when it smooths out and test, do you think?. The car isn't driven hard, so maybe if it is a bit more fuel weak on one cylinder, maybe not the end of the world (or even my Triumph) ?. Cheers, Dave

Never knew that dodge. Pete. Would it be worth, very slightly smoothing the now sharper edge of the plate shamper . Don't want to wear the carb body bore, as hard to get good ones I reckon. Dave

With the trunnions. The Vertical link threads can still be good, (though check for corrosion above the threads as this is where they usually snap, has been good info on the web about this))as the trunnions themselves wear faster. Depends on your budget maybe. Dave

Hi. Well finally found time to do a comp test. Found it bit difficult to get a seal (rubber bung/push in type, maybe rubber hard, as a vintage one) though managed it with the dry test. All 6 cylinders between 190 and 200. Second test with throttle closed showed a difference of 0, or + / - 1 difference from first readings (I guess they should all have been -, as less air)?. Wet test not accurate, as could't get the gauge to seal properly and my helper tan out of time. 1 and 2 cylinders/230 and 220 higher. Did try no 6 ( the one that's running weak, showed 5 higher, but this test was leaking worse and ran out of time at this point. So, not sure what to make of that, except looks like losing comp from the cylinders/pistons on at least some of them. Cheers, Dave

Clockwise looking from the top will richen as your screwing the jet away from the needle

Yeah, My Vitesse like that. Pretty hot this summer, at times, though toasty in winter (don't have to use the heater)

True Nick. I thought it may give me an idea on my mot exempt car, that I could then check out myself. Could there be a lack of skill/common sense with larger companies (not mentioning names) do you think?. Or could it be more unscrupulous reasons?. Maybe we're not allowed to comment?.

I think some folk use plastic rubble sack etc and cut it to size and staple together. That's what I did, with rock wool I had lying about to replace the ragged existing stuff. Also if your not a perfectionist, strong wide (black for ascetics) tape gives an ok/flexible repair. Mines been on 18 months and still ok with the tunnel removed a few (too many) times.

I was thinking of a crusty/fire blanket effect. I don't think Ig would be offended

Hi. Offer until the end of Sept. Phoned them, no catch apparently. Dave

To put out a small electrical fire, I assume.

A stick to dip in the tank meantime/Spare gallon in the boot?.

Thanks a lot for offer of loan of carb balancer Adrian. Not local to Brum though. Would be interested in trying that as I set mine by ear with a hose pipe to ear, though maybe not as accurate. Did have E.I on for a bit, but couldn't notice a difference. My dizzy shaft play does not seem too bad?. My block drain is very free flowing, maybe a sign that the rest is clean, though not proof I imagine. Cheers, Dave

I think it's just something he's done in the past. He's not not much of health and safety sort of guy, I imagine.

Waxoil. Mines covered in the stuff. mixed with a bit of engine oil to keep it from drying out. Oh dear. Well. its either a slow, certain death from rust, or the chance of a spectacular, quick, send off, to the scrapyard in the sky. Dave