Chris A

I will try adjusting the striker first, slacken it and a tap with a hammer, to see if this works and only if not think about the hinges. I might even live with it rubbing rather then risk the hinges. I'll also have a closer look at the how the trim on the door lines up with the body work, I know it isn't 100% but is pretty good and wouldn't want to make it worse by raising the door. Thanks Pete, no wonder you are a 10th Dan.

That's good as they are easy to get at, not sure they will be easy to undo as it looks as if when the car was resprayed in the past the hinges were in place and are painted. Thanks Colin

Right, so far it seems I need to balance a chicken & egg, tap with a hammer . . 😁 I get the idea, thanks for the help. Should I want/need to adjust door hinge(s) is it simply a case of slacken the nuts/bolts and Allen bolt on the frame and lift the door a little. I haven't got immediate access to the car. Well I have but I'm watching the Tour de France, my other favorite activity, ok, along with smoking a good cigar (done earlier this pm) and drinking whisk(e)y (that comes later this evening). 🙄

Hi all, The door or plates need a little adjustment because the plate on the door is rubbing on the top of the plate on the car. Sorry don't know the correct names for these items. Neither part seem to be adjustable for height. It looks as if the 2 options I have are:- 1. Somehow adjust the door hinges to angle them higher, but how, Please. 2. Get the mole grips out and bend the flange on the plate on the door. I prefer option 1 if possible. I can see the door is held in place by 2 hinges each with 2 nuts/bolts and what looks like an Allen bolt. The wear looks worse in the phot then it really is, it isn't a hollow just rubbing it slightly flat. The part that might need the mole grip method is the flange at the top. Thank for any/all thoughts on this.

On my 13/60 the fan stopped working some months ago. First step was to connect fan direct to battery, the fan ran so not the fan. Then confirmed the ignition switch was passing current to fan switch. So fan switch was the problem. I had noticed the fan switch had more then one set of connectors. Swapped from one set to the other and all was fine. Ok so the two cars might have completely different switches but the method of tracking would still work.

Ok, so same front and back then? Thanks guys

Hi everyone, I want to get the alignment checked on my 13/60 but in the manual I have there are only figures for the front wheels. I admit to not being a 'real' mechanic, so dare I ask? Has anyone figures for the rear? I think I have read somewhere there are shims for the rear. Thanks

Hi all, I've been watching this thread as I have the same symptoms. There is an article in the Oct. 2019 Courier mag, p.16, on this subject and I had been thinking of following it - the advice it to remove the pads and put something a little thinner in place and pump the brakes, well that is a sort of summary. I have been away for 3 weeks and left the brake pedal wedged on to see if this had any effect, i.e. the seals giving a little. Well I have been out in the car and it seems better, not perfect but less travel. I want to get the rear brakes adjusted to see if this also reduces the travel.

GT6 cooling: Maybe Triumph thought buyers would just be posers and only drive to the local pub and park up so us poor Herald owners would feel like second class citizens so the cooling system didn't need to be that powerful. Time to duck and hide 🙊

Buy that man a drink, any spirit he likes other than white! My filter also has very little petrol visible but I just shrug. The car starts so I don't worry, interesting effect though. 👏

Oh dear, it's a rhd model. I already have a rhd Herald so will have to pass on this. 👺🔨

When I bought my Herald in 2015 the engine had been rebuilt/restored in 2012 ish. There is a label for the garage that did it on the heater so I phoned them. They confirmed they had done work on it as it smoked like a chimney, but the owner didn't have hardened seats fitted, so I do use an additive as I assume the valves had at least been reground if not replaced. Hence no lead memory, I have no signs of problems so will continue to use it for piece of mind. I just regard the cost as part of the running costs. Each to there own, the important thing is to keep them on the road. 🛣️

Did you buy them from GnomeBase?

That's ok then, my village bistro is run by a Belgian woman, I think she is also Flemish, so I understand the humour. Mind you her husband is Danish - they are 'different'. I assume you will be applying for French nationality for the car as I did with mine?

🤷‍♂️ That's the closest to a Gallic shrug I can find.

Bienvenue ! So are you a 'ch'ti' or is that further north? Striking colour for the car. I'm a 'percherone' in 61. I had better warn you most, well all, on this forum are 'fou' to a greater or lesser extent. 😁

Or why not a hidden push-pull switch that cuts the electricity,that you forget have actioned and have a 30 second panic attack when car won't start .

When I bought my 13/60 it came with one hidden ******* l was lucky as the PO not only supplied the receipt with the paperwork but it said where it was and what for. It cuts the electricity to the coil, an anti theft device. When actioned the car turns over but won't start. Good bet yours is one as well. Only one way to find out ....

Ah, but have you allowed for VAT and postage?

I have given you replies some thought hence the delay in saying thanks. I'm a slow thinker. So, if toe in/out is the problem it must be the same on all 4 wheels as the wear is the same. No work has been done to suspension or steering etc since I got the car in 2015. I replaced the tyres the car came with in 2016 as I didn't like the profiles (155/70). The paperwork I have from th PO shows them being fitted not long before the MOT, not much annual mileage being done in 2013. I have no recollection of there being any odd wear pattern, these tyres would have covered 5000 ish miles, like my current set. I'm inclined to go with 'reduce the full lock' turning for the present and keep an eye on them. Finding anyone here in rural France who would even be willing to look at it won't be easy, although I do know of a couple of local garages who are into old cars - one is even a collector (if old French and MGs count). Thanks again guys. Here's to the next time. Unfortunately I won't be putting many miles on it for the next 3 weeks as I'm off for my annual cure. No not alcohol (thankfully) but thermal.

Not having the forum for a few hours will makes us all appreciate it more.

Thanks for this. I am now wondering about the tyre wear, maybe I should just slow down a bit on the bendy sections, of which there are LOTS around here.

Yes, that I could accept they supposed to be nippy enough to compete with similar cars at the time not sporty, but it is fun to drive 'spiritedly' - gives drivers of moderns a shock too 😁

Thanks guys. Hum, two different views - well I went and looked at the treads on the tyres. After 5500 miles all 4 look to be wearing slightly faster on the outside. does this help the diagnostics. Looked up tyre wear on the inter thingy and one of the causes, the one I prefer as easiest (maybe) to do something about, ' enthusiastic cornering'. Guilty(ish)!

Hi all, When I very rarely, 😌, drive my 13/60 at around 80 mph the steering feels very light almost as if the front is lifting. This might be normal for the model I don't know, I would just like the views of the collected knowledge on the forum. For info the tyres are 155/80 at 25 psi front & 26 psi rear. Something else but I doubt it has an effect (famous last words) at some point in the past the front valance has been replaced by one in fibre glass ant the "letterbox" slot above the number plate hasn't been cut out. Thanks for the replies when you have the time