Peter Truman

Did that, there was no debris in float valve or float chamber in some instances the needle was stuck open had to use carby clean to get it free there’s no issue if I start it regularly I have filters at the tank outlet and fuel pump inlet, the hoses are not a push or tight fit on the stubs I rely on the hose clips to seal the joints I haven’t seen any rubber slithers I’m sure it’s lack of use and modern fuels gumming up the float valve also the higher front carb evaporating out the fuel in the float chamber

If I haven't started the Mk2 with Stromberg Carbs for a couple of months the front carb always leaks it literally pours fuel out, the rear carb is OK. I have to drop the float chamber off (a pita) remove and clean the float valve with carb/throttle clean reassemble and all is OK then, no leak I've changed the standard Stromberg float valve front to rear carb, even put new float valves in, even tried USA Grosse valves (useless!) but still the front valve leaks after a car lay up. The rear carb is always OK. Yes I've reset the floats to the 18mm offset The engine in the Vitesse sits front up a little so the front carb is slightly higher, so is the issue modern ULP petrol (I use BP 98 I think it's 5% ethanol), does the front carb being higher dry out and the valve gums up or what? I know the solution is start the car more regularily but life gets in the way & time accelerates when you get older, anyone have a solution?

Have not got an electronic Workshop Manual but here are the Spare Parts Book and New Car Handbook for a Mk3 Spitfire. Spitfire Mk3 Handbook.pdf Spitfire Mk III Parts Catalogue.pdf

Kevin Interesting comment re copper grease, like most other classic car nuts I've used it for years to stop bolt thread & bush seizure it seems to work the grease does go black and gets thick but the parts do come undone! The Galvanic table & statement that to avoid corrosion the potential difference less than 0.1v is food for thought esp when you see where mild steel is relative to other metals s/s and brass, copper etc it doesn't give us much chance? your comment re Molycote Longterm grease is noted & I'll get some. For our large steel water mains a heat applied thick sprayed on (8mm ) epoxy coating with impressed current and sacrificial anodes is the answer then we affect other authorities assets and it becomes a horse trading which asset is to be sacrificed exercise.

In navel terms what do these crossed flags signal, I thought from what I've read previously it was less than flattering to the Triumph marque

When I did mine with no measuring only brute force, I found the outer metal washer covers titled to enter the wishbone then as I pushed it in the internal rubber seal lackey band gave enough and the trunnion slid into the wishbone with a very tight fitting

I have Accuspark in both the Spit and Vitesse and have had for over 15 years and very happy. At the time their costs were very reasonable under 30 quid delivered to Aus. BUT I do carry a spare unit in each car as they have different mountings to suit the Lucas and Delco Units.

It looks like a roll pin ie not a complete circle of spring steel with a hole thro it, maybe some penetrating oil and the right sized drift. I have successfully drilled roll pins out when its been a blind hole, but from memory you can see both ends of that pin.

I fitted a set of the older style Goodridge SS braided hoses to the Spit 20 plus years ago, by older I mean the steel connection ends are crimped direct to the SS braiding I was subsequently advised by my brake repairer guru they wer illegal here in Aus (Aus Design Rules, ie ADR) the theory being that SS work hardens and will fail/fray at the swaged/ crimp outer face joint. The Aussie SS braiding is insulated at this interface with a plastic/nylon sleeve also crimped into the joint the plastic sleeve is quite long day 30mm meaning the pipe has to longer than std to facilitate any flexing of the pipe one I had made for the Sprint balance adjuster to rear axle reall y looked contorted as it was S shaped and I had the SS flexible pipe made the original length, not really happy but it passed its RWC that way! I subsequently replaced the Spits Goodridge SS hoses but with a locally made set, Heli where the SS braiding is sleeved on the outside with thin poly plastic I chose a carbon fibre effect cover but could of had anything from clear to yellow it appears these plastic sleeved SSFlexi pipes are cosher legal. I believe the UK Goodridge SS braided hoses have been modified to include this outer plastic covering. Aus ADR also doesn’t allow fixed copper brake pipes for the same reason ie work hardening they have to be steel don’t know about SS fixed pipes? I had to remove the copper Aotomec set I brought and use bundy piping my brake Guru made me a set free as he kept the Automec set saying they could be used on boat trailers and caravans GO figure that one out!

Apologizes DanMi found a reference in the Mk2 Handbook " the horn and headlamp flasher circuits are protected by the "inline" fuse 3 located near the fuse box, so if I got the correct column switch voila I should have flashers?? We've had the Mk2 Spit 24 years after it was a total bare metal, chassis off rebuild and still learning

Interesting my Mk2 Handbook pg44 wiring diagram doesn't have a separate purple wire for a flasher from the battery fuse in the fuse box (2 fuses only). attached is my Mk2 Handbook and there's no mention I can find re a headlamp flasher! Our Mk2 is an Australian CKD Spit & there may be differences it could depend on what part was grabbed during assembly!! Spitfire Mk2 Handbook.pdf

attached is the Spit Mk3 Handbook which on pg 35 advises there is a headlamp flash function is sourced and protected by the bottom of 3 fuses in the fuse box ie a Battery supply always live. Pg 42 the wiring diagram shows the flash function being supplied from the LH battery fuse via a purple (P) wire to the brown (N) wire on the column light stalk to top rh terminal ie a direct battery supply for the flasher to the headlights only illuminating the dip and main beams simultaneously. Sorry about the quality of the print Spitfire Mk3 Handbook.pdf

Our 66 Spit Mk2 doesn’t have flash by pulling the column light stalk forward but the 68 Vitesse Mk2 does?

Sean Connery drove a Stag from Dover to Amsterdam whilst impersonating smuggler Franks in Diamonds are Forever.

Maybe the Stag ( was it diamonds are forever) could be the cheapest nowadays!

A bodge I have used several times is to solder the olive onto the pipe it’s fixed any fuel leaks I’ve had as said by others watch for the pipe being too long into the fuel pump body

Not all the 2000/2500 had the separate earth spade terminal on the individual bayonet fittings nor did the Dolly Sprints I got some from a friend who had the early 70's big saloons. Replacing all the Sprints rear lamps to the earthed spades & a DIY earth loom between all the 6 bayonet fittings sorted my Sprints dubious operating rear lights.

I replaced my Vitesse Mk2 saloon sun visors when I converted it to a convertible with similar to 1960's aftermarket tinted perspex but made locally here in Melbourne using the original Triumph brackets the visor back hinge is actually the original soft/foam that was stapled to the thin hardboard the foam was attached to, the trim screws are from stationary file front/back covers. The original vinyl sun visors foam had totally disintegrated, the covers were ok but had to be cut off. See Pics

I brought my Superflex from a UK supplier and even with UK to Aus postage it was cheaper than buying direct from Superflex here in Aus GO FIGURE! Make sure you get the bolts that tighten the splines tight there located into a groove halfway along the spline and a bug$$r to tighten with access limited by the front suspension turrent the Spitfire took a couple of attempts to tighten up hard you could feel some slack but it was safe it wouldn’t slip round on the splines or pull out just felt like the steering wheel was loose ie pulled up/down a little. I would use the Superflex insulators again a lot more professional than my DIY rubber grommet originals

Me too after living in Canada twice, it's a Trash Can & Trunk, but there again I might be just plain awkward!

My mate and I used to do a moisture test on brake fluid with a similar electronic pen when a club member required their club permit renewal. Club permit allows a 25 year old classic car cheap registration for club and social use only it’s actually not a registration but a permit permitted by the State Govt here to use the car on the road.

I had a balancer in the 60's that had two needles that you replaced the screw in cap and damper with a push in rod/wire into each carb which looked like a paperclip at the top you then pointed these towards each other and could see the respective rise and balance of the twin carbs. I wonder what happened to them?

If I remember correctly some cars in the 60's had an air filter inlet trumpet which was and recommended to be rotated to different positions for summer and winter to optimise the combustion air temperature. I remember cold foggy nights driving home across the York moors and the car ran beautifully with the dense air.

After gapping the doors Don't forget to look at how the body aligns with the rear wheels I did all that and found the body was pulled to one side ie the outside of the tyres was slightly inboard on the drivers side and directly vertical with the wheel arch on the N/S or passengers ie 1/2in skew so I had to slide the body over 1/4in to centralise it! I also used screws on the outside of the front to rear body tubs to initially align the two tubs and door gaps.