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New noise 😒


cliff.b

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3 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

so to fibbed aout no more noises    !!!!!!!!!!!!    

 

looking at the way the fan is wobbling about i would plump for the water pump has afailed bearing  

get hold of it and give it a jiggle  if it moves   ...its stuffed 

Pete

Still does it with the fan belt off.

I can't here it at higher revs, only at tickover and the slower the tickover the louder it is 

Here is a clip with it slowed right down almost to stalling 

 

 

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17 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

check the crank puley nut is tight 

I will check that tomorrow. Tried to work out where the sound is coming from, listening with a long screwdriver, and it does seem to be from the bottom end of the engine. I was wondering if it could be a big end going, but would the noise dissspear when the revs rise?

Or what about timing chain/tensioner? 

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2 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

It's metal on metal; possibly the exhaust?

I did think that but can't see where, at the moment. It's definitely in the engine area though so I think it would only be the downpipe against the chassis, which doesn't seem to be the case.

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I posted this on the club Facebook page as well and someone said they had the same noise and the nut holding the crank pulley had come off. I just went out with a torch to check and sure enough, mine has gone. No idea how and why I didn't hear it leaving.

Hopefully, this is the cause but won't find out for certain until I manage to get a replacement.

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Happened to a friends 1500 Spit fortunately we found it on the front lawn needed a 46mm socket to tighten it but also had to cut the socket down by around 20 mm to clear the radiator with .75 to .5 in reducing drive for 1/2 in breaker Bar tighten

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4 hours ago, Peter Truman said:

Happened to a friends 1500 Spit fortunately we found it on the front lawn needed a 46mm socket to tighten it but also had to cut the socket down by around 20 mm to clear the radiator with .75 to .5 in reducing drive for 1/2 in breaker Bar tighten

Hmm, perhaps more common than I imagined then. Was his one noisy?

I will have a look around on my drive later. The only thing that is more surprising than it falling off is how much s new one is 😒

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There was a noise/heavy rattle which made us look under the bonnet, pure luck we found it! I've got the 46mm modified socket in my tool kit but unfortunately your too far away!

My Dolly Sprint felt terrible on Weds when I started it. the car idled well but felt like an engine or gearbox mount had failed with heavy vibration through the car after a short run it was no better so after checking all mounts and engine tie bars I noticed the engine rear exhaust manifold bolt had come loose and jammed between the suspension turrant and also jammed in the manifold it was slightly bent, its around 3.75in long and the gap space between the manifold and inner wing/turrant joint only 2.75in so there's no way of removing it or replacing it with the engine in place, so I recirp saw cut it out now how to replace it? I think a 3/8 plus hole thro the inner wing from the wheel arch so a long 3/8in threaded bar around 4.5in long can be fitted thro and into the manifold threaded into the head and a nut in place of bolt, being Triumph there has to be a BUT. a steel brake pipe is in the way when drilling the hole, hopefully I can protect it and pull it out of the way! Gawd Sprints are hard work compared to Spits and Vitesse's

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18 minutes ago, Peter Truman said:

There was a noise/heavy rattle which made us look under the bonnet, pure luck we found it! I've got the 46mm modified socket in my tool kit but unfortunately your too far away!

My Dolly Sprint felt terrible on Weds when I started it. the car idled well but felt like an engine or gearbox mount had failed with heavy vibration through the car after a short run it was no better so after checking all mounts and engine tie bars I noticed the engine rear exhaust manifold bolt had come loose and jammed between the suspension turrant and also jammed in the manifold it was slightly bent, its around 3.75in long and the gap space between the manifold and inner wing/turrant joint only 2.75in so there's no way of removing it or replacing it with the engine in place, so I recirp saw cut it out now how to replace it? I think a 3/8 plus hole thro the inner wing from the wheel arch so a long 3/8in threaded bar around 4.5in long can be fitted thro and into the manifold threaded into the head and a nut in place of bolt, being Triumph there has to be a BUT. a steel brake pipe is in the way when drilling the hole, hopefully I can protect it and pull it out of the way! Gawd Sprints are hard work compared to Spits and Vitesse's

On the bright side, at least you will have a sense of achievement when it's done 🙄

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Quote

 

ha  so right forst time    its not uncommon   do check or replace the keyway  most are a pig to undo  but yes they go missing 

if you can get hold of a impact gun you dont need to lock the flywheel up 

dont rely on putting in gear you can over torque the clutch hub  damper springs 

 

1500 pulley nut is 150lbft   the engine max torque is 81lbft     you can see where this might lead  you must lock the flywheel or impact the nut  

so its starter off or any other idea 

Pete

 

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

ha  so right forst time    its not uncommon   do check or replace the keyway  most are a pig to undo  but yes they go missing 

if you can get hold of a impact gun you dont need to lock the flywheel up 

dont rely on putting in gear you can over torque the clutch hub  damper springs 

 

1500 pulley nut is 150lbft   the engine max torque is 81lbft     you can see where this might lead  you must lock the flywheel or impact the nut  

so its starter off or any other idea 

Pete

 

Thanks for the "heads up" regarding the clutch 👍

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