Help - I can't remove the diff input oil seal

[Mick Foster]

I have a leaking oil seal on the diff pinion shaft on my 1500 spitfire so I thought I would change it. It all went well untill I tried to remove the old seal. The new seal seems to be an all rubber item where the old one has a metal casing. I have pretty much destroyed the front face of the old seal and pulled out some of it's rubber inners but the rest of it is stuck fast in the diff casing. I have limited access as I am working on axel stands and I don't want to get too brutal as I don't want to damage the seal mating parts of the casing. I have attached a photo showing the pinion shaft and the half destroyed old seal. How the hell do I get it out???

Any suggestions would be gratefully received (and yes I have tried a bigger hammer).

[Badwolf]

Mick - I think that I had the same problem with mine but sorry, I can remember how I sorted it but I did get it sorted. I'm sure that I wrote about it on my restoration thread so will try to check back.

Edit... Yep, you will find my attempts here towards the bottom of the page. Think it was the same seal!!. Hope that it helps...

https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/2623-gearbox-tunnel-cover-finally-getting-somewhere-nose-to-tail-1972-spitfire-mkiv-restoration-upgrades/page/2/

 

[johny]

I levered with a screwdriver and something to lever on. The pinion and poor access doesnt help as it means lever positions are limited so the seal tends to tilts...

[68vitesse]

Have used this type of tool,

Regards

Paul.

 

 

[Mick Foster]

Thanks for the suggestions. IT'S OUT. Brute force, ignorance, big hammers, long screwdrivers and lots of leverage finally did it. I am exhausted so reassembly can wait until tomorrow.

I like te way that nice Mr haynes says just prise it out !!!!

[andybeau]

Haynes definitions 

Comes out easy = stuck fast need hot axe

Hard to remove = falls on top of you 

[Pete Lewis]

just think of the satisfaction of succeeding  

bit of grease on the shaft to lube the seal when the new is inserted 

and use two old bolts in the coupling flange  jammed with crowbar to hold the coupling still while re torquing the nut 

and  top the oil up  and clean the jiggle pin in the breather which sits above the level filler casting 

Pete

[Josef]

1 hour ago, Mick Foster said:

Thanks for the suggestions. IT'S OUT. Brute force, ignorance, big hammers, long screwdrivers and lots of leverage finally did it. I am exhausted so reassembly can wait until tomorrow.

I like te way that nice Mr haynes says just prise it out !!!!

Given “reassembly is the reverse of removal” you’ll have to rip apart the new seal and force it back together as it goes in

[Ian Foster]

Mike

If it's a leather seal, soak it overnight in oil before fitting.

Ian

[Mick Foster]

Thanks. It looks like a rubber seal but I will be oiling it up anyway before fitting.

[johny]

Yes not easy to find leather these days and even the original 1968 I took out was rubber....

[Gary Flinn]

Be sure to check the surface of the Drive flange that rubs on the seal, make sure its smooth with no major rust pitting or you will still get a leak!😞

Gary

[johny]

Yes sleeves are probably available but might be cheaper to get a replacement flange....

[Mick Foster]

Thanks for the advice. The flange was in excellent condition, no rust or marks at all. It all went back together easily. Only problem was I found a couple of failing exhaust hangers. They arrived today and I hope to have it back on the road tomorrow.