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Fume galore


Iain T

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2 hours ago, Dave the tram said:

do I trust the Rimmers new one will fit ok

Possibly not.

It is hard to say that any particular seal would the a 'correct' one for a GT6 tailgate because of the variability with which the 'gate can sit in the aperture.

It took me four goes to get mine right using bubble type seal with upstands ranging from 8mm to 14mm; but in conjuction with adjustment of the latch/striker and more or fewer shims on the hinges. 

So it's a bit bespoke - perhaps worth buying some short samples and trying for fit in the first instance.

 

 

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I agree with Chris, my GT6 got caught in the rain at a show and water poured in through the hatch. The supposed replacement “i” section seal just wouldn’t fit. To make it work the locking catch would have to be repositioned and the hatch would stick out like a mushroom. In the end  I got a “p” section seal from Woolies, perfect fit and hatch flush. Still see a lot of GT6’s with mushroom hatches.

Doug

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Half hour run and it's much better. Did the same run earlier in the week and the fumes were awful. I purposely didn't tape the gb cover so the main culprit must be the bonnet seal. I'll seal the gb cover, gearstick gaiter (I'm sure there must be a widget to slide over the shaft) and see if there is a further improvement. 

Iain 

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3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

used a neat gaitor from an MGB  but needs a plywood ring to support the chrome ring as you cant bend it to fit the tunnel 

My gaiter looks like this. I think I've found a ring that might work on the 12mm diameter shaft and retain the gaiter. Amazon here I come! 

IMG_20230219_144402.jpg

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Another  area for bulkhead seal failure is the fuse box

1.- the grommet perishes,  as elsewhere.

2. also the box itself  is a plastic clip- fit to compress a sponge gasket.

These clips seem to break off easily..

The result is a big gap.

Replacement of the box is currently £61 ( Rimmers)

A cheaper solution is to fit M4 Riv nuts and  then use M4 pan head set screws and washers :

 

E696ADEA-F16A-4123-B556-349639E75485.thumb.jpeg.158bdc0761c7bb1593df6a02b7140dfd.jpeg

D54E368A-2676-46E3-93EC-DB68E205B8B8.thumb.jpeg.1864d66c3740f0b7ba565ae874eee957.jpeg

 

 

 

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Sealed up then another run and although not smelling of roses it doesn't of exhaust/engine fumes. I did notice a dribble of oil down the rocker cover by each retaining nut. I have rubber then steel washers in an attempt to seal the shafts but they need more attention. 

Bad news is the speedo cable end broke🤬. I won't use the Tripmaster adapter next time but go straight into the counter. B****r! 

Iain 

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On the gasket front and fumes being drawn in at the rear, what is supposed to seal the fuel pipe from the tank? My GT6 has a hole about 2” diameter in the floor that I’ve always stuffed foam or a scrunched up carrier bag into around the pipe! Can’t find a proper part for this so might need a better improvisation.

Dave

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1 hour ago, Dave the tram said:

what is supposed to seal the fuel pipe from the tank? My GT6

Hope I'm not getting the context wrong here, but ......

I'm assuming you have the fuel tank with the bottom exit for the petrol rather than a siphon-type top mounted fuel pick up.

The filling cap assembly  has two breathers. One runs from the underisde of the cap and exits through the floor pan behind the left (rear) wheel arch, sealed by a diaphragm grommet (or similar subsitute). This is really a drain for fuel spillage at the cap. Then there is a breather proper which runs upward from the cap, behind the trim board, before looping down again into the left front side of the boot floor, under the tank, where it is connected to a right angled piece which exits the boot floor and sealed by a diaphragm grommet.

Then there is the fuel exit point from the tank (downward neck). Originally this was supported and sealed by a chunky foam ring compressed between the tank and the floor: Part number 144510 (unavailable) but any softish foam will do. But can only be fitted with tank removed. So improvisation, as per Pete's suggestion above is more practicable for this.

 

 

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Thanks. I was angling towards improvising now the tank is out with a piece of rubber and a hole punched and glued down, but the notes about the breathers are useful. Something I’ve never looked at so I’ll check they were previously in place tomorrow (the bodyshop took the tank out) and that they go back correctly when I’ve done.

cheers

Dave

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  • 3 months later...
On 17/02/2023 at 10:24, Pete Lewis said:

check the tail pipe if its too short you get exhaust flow back into the car via the boot seals etc.

Back from Enfield yesterday and the fumes were awful. I opened the boot this morning and it stunk of exhaust fumes. It could be the boot seal? This afternoon's job to check. I did put talc powder on the bulkhead seal and it showed a witness on the black foam I stuck on the bonnet so there appears to be a reasonable seal. 

Where ever the pong is coming from it's making the car uncomfortable to drive and I must sort it out. 

Iain 

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  • 1 month later...

Just to revive the post I put some foam around the boot lid in an attempt to get a better seal. I thought the exhaust fumes could circulate around the rear and enter into the boot and cabin. It seems to have worked as after a trip out and 2 hour drive yesterday the wife said I didn't ponk! 

Iain 

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3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

had visions of you fitting a vertical tailpipe  with a flap on the top to keep the rain out  ......rubber duck   copy  thats a big 10.4

Big rig language. Hopefully that's a 10-98 for me! 

Although I did have another tweek around the back end today. I bent the fuel sender arm to now read slightly pessimistic rather than overly optimistic. 

Iain 

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18 hours ago, Iain T said:

Big rig language. Hopefully that's a 10-98 for me! 

Although I did have another tweek around the back end today. I bent the fuel sender arm to now read slightly pessimistic rather than overly optimistic. 

Iain 

Just treat 1/4 as the new empty... :)

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