Phil C Posted February 20, 2023 Report Share Posted February 20, 2023 I am about to start fitting the body mouldings/trim to my Vitesse restoration which can provide instant gratification (if it goes well) or misery (if you scratch your shiny new paint!). It looks like a straightforward job but is there any specific issues I should be aware of? Particular concerns include; 1. Having fitted new door skins I have to drill holes for the trim rivets - I was thinking masking tape and a string line from front/rear wings but this could go horribly wrong. 2. The short trim to the rear of the filler cap - how does this attach as its is too narrow to use the same rivets? 3. The holes for the bonnet centre trim are much larger than the rest. Is there a reason? My new clips have much smaller holes and I may have to fix with a washer on the rear side? Any other experience to pass on would be most welcome. Thanks Car shown pre-scratched before trim fitting!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 20, 2023 Report Share Posted February 20, 2023 I seem to remember some are pop rivets and that the rivet gun always kicks as you operate it so jumping sideways onto the paintwork😭 Now I would try doing them through a hole cut in a piece of thick card! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 20, 2023 Report Share Posted February 20, 2023 The side trim rivets do make the gun jump; mask them off well, and use a short length of brake pipe, maybe only 1/2 inch or so, over the shank of the river before putting it in the gun - this gives a bit of a gap and the gun may jump but further off the paintwork. A long strip of masking tape along the door works; align the trim to the bonnet trim and rear wing trim, or just draw a line between the two across the door skin and mark. Use a small Punch on the hole first before trying to drill. The short rear trim might have its' own 'legs' or pins that go through the bodywork but I suspect if rivets are required they are a different shape to the other, larger side trim rivets. Bonnet centre trim may use washers, depending on the trim clip used - my own Vitesse bonnet had large spring clips fitted, never saw them before, but I'll revert to the usual 'metal plate' type of clip with washers. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Flinn Posted February 20, 2023 Report Share Posted February 20, 2023 2 hours ago, Phil C said: I am about to start fitting the body mouldings/trim to my Vitesse restoration which can provide instant gratification (if it goes well) or misery (if you scratch your shiny new paint!). It looks like a straightforward job but is there any specific issues I should be aware of? Particular concerns include; 1. Having fitted new door skins I have to drill holes for the trim rivets - I was thinking masking tape and a string line from front/rear wings but this could go horribly wrong. - A good idea, or possibly offer up the original Stainless Finisher for the door and draw a pencil line top/bottom then drill in the middle between each line, not sure if it's 6 or 7 clips for this piece though and don't put the ones at each end to far apart (i.e. near the ends). 2. The short trim to the rear of the filler cap - how does this attach as its is too narrow to use the same rivets? - 1 Normal and 1 x Special fixing clips for this if I remember correctly, the rearmost one is shaped to fit and is and interference fit I think (it's nearly 20 years since I fitted mine!) I can remember using superglue to hold the clip onto to the trim. 3. The holes for the bonnet centre trim are much larger than the rest. Is there a reason? My new clips have much smaller holes and I may have to fix with a washer on the rear side? - The special spring clips for the Centre bonnet trim are no longer available, are you sure the new clips will work? (Again, going on memory here but I'm sure they are fixed with an 1/8" Pop Rivet) Any other experience to pass on would be most welcome. - Take your time and be careful with the drilling, a steady trigger finger and small variable speed battery drill is best, also coat the Rivet part of each trim clip and the hole with a rust proofing fluid before fixing them (Dinitrol 3125 was my preferred rust proofer) Thanks Car shown pre-scratched before trim fitting!! My answers and advice adjacent each Query above Gary 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted February 20, 2023 Report Share Posted February 20, 2023 Just to add to all the good advice, I put a dab of waxoil on each trim clip head before clipping the trim on. It'll help keep the dreaded rust at bay over the next few years... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted February 20, 2023 Report Share Posted February 20, 2023 When drilling, do so through a bit of masking tape with a sharp bit at low speed. That’ll help keep your drill from wandering or skidding several inches over the new paint! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil C Posted February 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2023 On 20/02/2023 at 09:55, johny said: Now I would try doing them through a hole cut in a piece of thick card! 22 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said: and use a short length of brake pipe, maybe only 1/2 inch or so, over the shank of the river before putting it in the gun - this gives a bit of a gap 22 hours ago, Gary Flinn said: offer up the original Stainless Finisher for the door and draw a pencil line top/bottom then drill in the middle between each line 21 hours ago, trigolf said: I put a dab of waxoil on each trim clip head before clipping the trim 21 hours ago, Josef said: o so through a bit of masking tape with a sharp bit at low speed Many thanks, lots of good advice there. The short length of trim to the rear of there filler cap has a special "hoop clip" listed in the parts book which appears to be unavailable. I can see superglue being involved at some point! the bonnet clips do fit the trim so I think washers are the solution here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 21, 2023 Report Share Posted February 21, 2023 'and use a short length of brake pipe, maybe only 1/2 inch or so, over the shank of the river before putting it in the gun - this gives a bit of a gap' Surely with this method theres then the extra length of the rivet shank sticking out of the gun which will still be close to the paintwork and with even more potential to damage it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 21, 2023 Report Share Posted February 21, 2023 If you use the rivet gun tight to the paintwork, just the thickness of a rivet head away, then when triggered it may bounce and damage the paint. With a gap, there's a space to absorb the bounce and maybe keep it off the paint. There's no substitute for care and a steady hand, but it does help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 21, 2023 Report Share Posted February 21, 2023 yes but theres still not a gap is there as the broken off shank will stick out of the gun the length of the brake pipe spacer tube used? Instead of the gun hitting the paintwork it'll be the end of the shank😭 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted February 21, 2023 Report Share Posted February 21, 2023 I have often wondered, if it would be possible to bond the strips on? 1) it would take the "danger" out of drilling and Pop riveting. 2) if done right there would be less chance of corrosion behind and or to the clips?. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 21, 2023 Report Share Posted February 21, 2023 Isnt that the way they do it on moderns now👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted February 21, 2023 Report Share Posted February 21, 2023 Not actually that "new" Back around 1978/80 we had a Chrysler 2L Auto. All the side trim was bonded to the car. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 21, 2023 Report Share Posted February 21, 2023 there are a few adverts on TV with a Chrysler 2ltr keeps appearing in odd shots must be owned by the ad producer there cant be many left had a lot as management cars nearly bought one but they had only just solved the cam wear (like fords ) and had a simca 1501 instead Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 23, 2023 Report Share Posted February 23, 2023 On 21/02/2023 at 17:18, PeteH said: I have often wondered, if it would be possible to bond the strips on? 1) it would take the "danger" out of drilling and Pop riveting. 2) if done right there would be less chance of corrosion behind and or to the clips?. Pete The trims are C-shaped, hollow in behind, so you'd need to fill that space before there's anything to use glue on. Silicone sealer scraped flush might work; glue the flat face of the dried sealer to the paintwork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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