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Spitfire gearbox overhaul


Jonah

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Evening all

I’m planning to remove the gearbox from my Mk3 Spitfire to deal with a crunch into second gear. I’m planning to remove it from within the car, is it best to remove the seats?

The car has overdrive fitted and I was wondering what other rebuilding I should do while the gearbox and overdrive are on the bench, also where I should go for parts.

Also unless I get the positioning right when I change from second to third there is a horrible crunching noise, so selecting the right position is crucial to achieve smooth selection maybe that’s how it should be

hope this makes sense, any advice would be great

Best Julian 

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you need to make up a dummy layshaft spindle to allow the cluster to drop without loosing all the needle rollers

gear shift crunch  is often down to the baulk ring is worn out 

and also do a remote shift kit as worn bushes will misplace the selelction .  if you are stirring a pudding 

suggest canley for most parts 

attach a explaination of how synchro works 

Pete

syncho and howi.jpg

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If it’s an original Mk3 gearbox it will have bushings in the lay shaft and not needle rollers! Pete’s comment there only applies if you have synchro on first gear Jonah. 
 

Before you start I would recommend this series of videos so you can actually see what goes where rather than having to decipher some of the less than clear WSM instructions. 
 

If the overdrive is operating fine I’d probably just leave it alone. While you have the box out though I’d consider changing the clutch, definitely budget for one in case it’s completely worn out already.

Oh and you should be able to do it with the seats in place, just take the bases out. But remember the gearbox is going to be pretty filthy, and is heavy, so make sure to protect the interior trim you don’t remove well. 

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Thanks Josef that’s really helpful

the only issue with the overdrive is that it seems to have to wake up and sometimes it can take ages before the overdrive kicks in.
the solenoid is new and has been adjusted

is there anything I should do to it while it’s out?

Best Julian 

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11 minutes ago, Jonah said:

the only issue with the overdrive is that it seems to have to wake up and sometimes it can take ages before the overdrive kicks in.

That tends to happen if the gearbox oil is old, or the filter in the OD unit is clogged. It's worth giving that a good clean while it's out of the car.

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depends how old you are but  seats out and even steering wheel off greatly affect the ease of access

needle rollers were in use  my 64 3 sync Vit6 had them and also shown in the parts listing maybe 4 cyl stuck with bushes but all the boxes i have rebuilt all had needle rollers 

agree use any thing for the dummy shaft  even a lenght of hose can work 

in the end its not really need to strip but definitley needed to rebuild   thick grease wont work to hold them 

just count 25 in each end 

OD   worth removing the cap screw on the top insde is a ball spring and a needle    this has a very small hole in the needle it can get clogged  

a clean and replace may wake it up , do take care you dont loose any small bits wha=en the cap comes off 

its this needle that the sol lever  operates and is life and sol of the operation 

Pete

 

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that comes from a 77yr old with a back that  should belong to someone else 

then add diabetes and poor plumbing , brain fog, fading incentive  and happy new year  

always do the easy and cheap checks first before you re invent the wheel 

its knowing what to check is the dying art   not a dark art  Ha !!

i did check and seems 4 cyl 3 snyc  have bushes   6cly has needles  so you dont ned a dummy shaft other than something to keep the thrusts in place 

( you can look thro the hole and prod them into place if the shift )

getting the circlip off the mainshaft is often a chop it job  always buy a few spares as they stretch and must never  be reused even if only fitted once and removed ..dont do it 

 

 

 

Pete

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Thanks Pete I feel your pain!

the advice I’ve had here has set me in the right path 

I bought the car in 2012 from a body shop manager in a main car dealership, he told me that the gearbox and overdrive was good as I didn’t get chance to drive it before parting with cash, so when I got the body off and began restoring I left the gearbox alone apart from changing an oil seal.

Sadly my trust in the previous owners claims disappeared quickly, including ‘there’s no filler’ anywhere. He or someone prior to him was a genius with filler everywhere and an expert in stuffing a bin liner fill of concrete into the near side sill for rigidity!

you live and learn

I will send some pics when I get it on the bench

Best Julian 

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I guess we’re reflecting on an era when vehicles had to be fixed quickly at the side of the road for work the next day when ‘needs must’ drove innovation and imagination using what was available and at hand at the time (personal memories here of keeping my first old banger on the road, a Cooper S, in 1976)

I remember my grandad putting a wooden floor repair into my dads Ford popular in the early 60’s

In restoring my Spitfire I have seen much evidence of innovative and unauthordox  fixes done by people with considerable skills and imagination 

the old days eh!

julian 

 

 

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On 23/02/2023 at 13:42, Jonah said:

Thanks Pete I feel your pain!

the advice I’ve had here has set me in the right path 

I bought the car in 2012 from a body shop manager in a main car dealership, he told me that the gearbox and overdrive was good as I didn’t get chance to drive it before parting with cash, so when I got the body off and began restoring I left the gearbox alone apart from changing an oil seal.

Sadly my trust in the previous owners claims disappeared quickly, including ‘there’s no filler’ anywhere. He or someone prior to him was a genius with filler everywhere and an expert in stuffing a bin liner fill of concrete into the near side sill for rigidity!

you live and learn

I will send some pics when I get it on the bench

Best Julian 

I had a similar mess of a Spitfire, my rule is now to ignore anything the seller might say! In my case I’m convinced the previous owner was entirely ignorant of the horrific bodgery, but the quality of some of the visible work (the rats nest of mostly blue wiring for example) should’ve told me the real story…

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I agree Josef

My experience was like when we’ve bought houses based on appearance and the superficial stuff only to find generations of Barney Bodger had been there before me!

one mistake I made was to buy a non driveable Spitfire, and having restored it I don’t know what a good one should drive and feel like to be able to make a comparison

all part of life’s rich tapestry…….maybe 

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31 minutes ago, Jonah said:

I don’t know what a good one should drive and feel like

should be brisk snappy stable and fun no hic ups bunny hops or diving in the hedge when you brake  yes its an old generation drive  but well suited to give many a good run for the money , probably not the best car for motorway use as you can get lost being small by modern cars and giant trucks 

pete

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I’ve attached a couple of photos that perhaps someone could take a look at please

the first shows the gearbox output shaft with a small ‘sleeve’ that fell off when I separated the overdrive. The edges of the sleeve feel damaged which light be ok, but I can’t find any reference to it in the WM

the second pic is of the gearbox with the top off before I dismantle to address the synchro problem 

I’ve ordered a gearbox rebuild kit from Canley’s along with a remote gear change kit and a gasket and oil seal set for the overdrive which was leaking at the output end 

should I use any sealant with the paper gaskets to reassemble

thanks for your help 

Julian C245FF86-F01B-47BB-B63B-70AABAB830D9.thumb.jpeg.3c5b8a5b4f01af0df4805b41ef2fc9c9.jpeg37193218-F13B-48DC-BFF9-F0997D079C35.thumb.jpeg.2d73089b8a81abe5974f5e5cef90bb39.jpeg

 

 

 

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thats the tail spigot bush it should be a light tight fit in the anulus assy 

the flat spring  circlip is an  improtant   anti chater   device   

you have photo'd  with 2nd engaged so we cant see the baulk ring wear 

make sure if you take the pump cam /circlip off you catch and keep safe the small woodruff drive key

and dont forget to refit it ...on rebuild 

 

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