Jump to content

Clutch Budgie Squeak!


Phil C

Recommended Posts

OK, so I have just found a page in the WSM that I was not previously familiar with. Scan attached.

Page 1.113 - Engine reconditioning.

Fig 13 shows and lists all of the studs, dowels and plugs fitted to the engine block.

At the rear of the block, at the top are:-

Diag part No. 20 - 3No. 5/16" UNF studs Part No. 139836

Diag Part No. 21 - I No. 3/8" x 1" dowel Part No. DP0616

Fig 12 on page 1.112, shows the studs and the dowel in position, as do other photos throughout the WSM.

At the bottom:-

Diag part No. 18 - 1 No. 3/8" x 3/4" dowel Part No. DP0612

This agrees with your post above.

I assume from the fact that the top dowel is longer it is the one that protrudes to locate the bellhousing, whereas the lower one is just into the backplate. I think your photo shows this.

Ian

Scan_0122.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Ian Foster said:

I assume from the fact that the top dowel is longer it is the one that protrudes to locate the bellhousing, whereas the lower one is just into the backplate. I think your photo shows this.

Thanks Ian, that is the page I was looking at and concluded the same.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, I assume that you have successfully determined the position of the 3/8" stud.

If so and you get round to fitting the clutch today, we will be interested to know whether there is any run-out on the clutch fingers (and the flywheel as well as that could be relevant).

Keep us updated and let me know if you want a second pair of eyes/opinion.

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Checked the clutch run-out with dial gauge.

Varies by 156 thou.

It’s only done 1500 miles but I bought it over three years ago!
I was going to ask what an acceptable Tolerance would be but I’m guessing this is causing the oscillation of the clutch fork? 
Could the lack of the dowel bolt have caused this by not loading the clutch evenly??

 

IMG_9377.thumb.jpeg.30bd11b5b27724132b6a8ccad7d5ada5.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The manual says 116thou tolerance measuring from flywheel face to spring tips at a diameter of 1.92". Although we dont known if thats the acceptable tolerance from finger to finger or clutch cover to cover. Interestingly though it also gives a tolerance on the friction plate run out and says, if not true bend it until it is😁

I wonder if the same couldnt be done to the fingers or possibly that they might even themselves out with more miles anyway...

image.png.5e9493cc6d9636015923b958f078053f.png

Edited by johny
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Phil

156 thou is 3.96mm. That's a lot, no wonder the bearing/carrier/fork is wobbling about so much. I'm surprised that didn't pulse through the pedal.

Did you measure the runout of the flywheel after you refitted it. Tolerance for that is 0.003"

Let me know if you need that cover and plate.

Ian

Edited by Ian Foster
update
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, Ian Foster said:

Did you measure the runout of the flywheel after you refitted it. Tolerance for that is 0.003"

Let me know if you need that cover and plate.

 

Ian, Flywheel is spot on.

The cover sounds very generous and a good plan. Can I come and collect?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Phil

It was good to meet you. I hope the clutch cover and plate do the job for you.

Ref bearing carriers, Canleys list part No. 143707 for the GT6/Vitesse. As original these would have been bronze.

Rimmers also list 143707 for the GT6/Vitesse, but show it as a steel item. Hopefully this is what you have.

The T2000/2500 carriers both in original and later (slipper pad) flavours have different part numbers.

My old T2000 steel carrier, fitted in error back in the late 1970s measures 49.5mm o/a with the bearing fitted. Might be worth checking against yours.

Good luck for the RBRR, I'll be thinking about you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 29/09/2023 at 20:54, Ian Foster said:

It was good to meet you.

and you Ian, and a massive thank you for your generosity.

Thought I would post an update to conclude this issue.

Although originally the squeak was the problem it soon became apparent that the issue was a little more serious with the clutch diaphragm run-out exceeding 150 thou and also the alignment of the gearbox - 3/8 dowel bolt.

I replaced the clutch (kindly donated by Ian) and the measured run-out reduced to 48 thou.

I also replaced the spigot bush as this may have been affected by the previous misaligned gearbox.

I put a new pin in the carrier to overcome the wear.

On reassembly I ensured I used a 3/8 bolt in the correct hole and tightened it before the remaining 5/16 bolts to ensure correct gearbox alignment. For any doubt I show its location below.

Image01-10-2023at12_27.jpeg.6235091af8c19d45e711479f137c0f41.jpeg

I can report the lever no longer oscillates and the slight clutch judder I had on start up has gone. The clutch feels smooth and no squeaking.......although I have only done a 15 mile test run. Very happy 😊

Again a big thank you to everybody who contributed and a special thank you to Ian for donating the replacement clutch!

Phil

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Phil

Really pleased that you have achieved a successful outcome.

I think we have all learned about the importance of the lower 3/8" aligning bolt. Mine has a 5/16" bolt in that position, so it will be something to address when I do the clutch swop this winter.

Good luck on the RBRR. If the weather gods are kind, you may even to get to drive the fabulous Scottish sections with the roof down.

Ian

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Ian Foster said:

think we have all learned about the importance of the lower 3/8" aligning bolt.

Don't forget the cover finger variation. I never though about that. It's the only thing that can be causing my chatter noise but not sure I have the energy or place to take the gearbox out. However I might get bored over winter! 

Iain 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Ian Foster said:

I think we have all learned about the importance of the lower 3/8" aligning bolt. Mine has a 5/16" bolt in that position, so it will be something to address when I do the clutch swop this winter.

Pretty sure I removed what I thought was an over size bolt from this position when swapping my Herald or Spitfire box. So will have to check and replace. I know the set of new bolts I had from Paddocks were all 5/16”... Do we have a reference for this bolt being larger? I can’t find any mention in the parts catalogue or the factory WSM. Not in doubt, just hoping that if it’s important then Triumph would’ve written it down somewhere!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...