Jump to content

O/D inhibitor switch bracket (GT6 / Vitesse) D-type


rulloyd

Recommended Posts

Has anybody else found that the Rimmers re manufactured part doesn’t fit?  Bolts on ok but when fitted, the switch doesn’t reach the  striker arm 😖

I could bend it possibly, but @ £30 I don’t want to risk breaking it.

its not as bad as pic 1.  After I had bolted it down, it’s near but still not near enough.

I’m in the process of a o/d conversion.

many thanks

Rich

A61043DE-4F80-4253-AC8B-645CFFE8157C.jpeg

IMG_2465.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

51 minutes ago, rulloyd said:

Has anybody else found that the Rimmers re manufactured part doesn’t fit?  Bolts on ok but when fitted, the switch doesn’t reach the  striker arm 😖

I could bend it possibly, but @ £30 I don’t want to risk breaking it.

its not as bad as pic 1.  After I had bolted it down, it’s near but still not near enough.

Is the switch held too high? How well does the operator line up with it when youre in third/forth gear?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, johny said:

Is the switch held too high? How well does the operator line up with it when youre in third/forth gear?

It doesn’t touch in 3rd or 4th.  It has a bit of movement but still not touching.  I bought my box from Tony LD and he did mention that he was waiting for rimmers to correct a rubbish component.  It was probably the bracket in hindsight. 😖

Link to comment
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, DanMi said:

or is it that the switch is too short?

Possibly but the actual bracket doesn’t look angled enough.  I don’t know why the nut is so thick though.  The ball only just makes it past the nut!  There’s a packing washer that comes with the switch.  Certainly couldn’t use that!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, johny said:

Must admit looks quite different from the original😩

Picture 1 of 2

Yes, looks quite different.  Are you sure that’s the right one?I saw this one on eBay.  But I see it’s now ‘out of stock’. 😩😩😩

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes thats the right one for D type overdrive and yours sure does look crude. Id get onto Rimmers as thats not fit for purpose. In the meantime Canleys have them although check theyre not from the same supplier!

The non original switch may also be slightly shorter but dont think thats the main problem...

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, johny said:

Yes thats the right one for D type overdrive and yours sure does look crude. Id get onto Rimmers as thats not fit for purpose. In the meantime Canleys have them although check theyre not from the same supplier!

The non original switch may also be slightly shorter but dont think thats the main problem...

 I thought I was really lucky with that one on eBay until I tried to buy it!  So annoying.  Anyone reading this got a spare? 😬

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Pete.  I could probably bend it into shape.  But to be honest, it’s quite flimsy and I shouldn’t have to!  £30 is enough for it to be right, surely.

Turns out Canley manufacture their own (and cheaper) so I’ve ordered that.  Let’s just say that Canleys ‘weren’t complementary’ about the Rimmers product and nor was Tony Lindsey-Dean who referred to it as not fit for purpose.

Anyway Rimmers are refunding without a return So I’ll compare the two and feed back.

All a bit odd as Rimmers said they have been selling the same item from the same supplier without any returns for years.  They did say they will investigate.   Incidently, they used to buy them from Canleys! 🤔

i don’t order much from Rimmers normally but I was ordering quite a few parts that only they stocked at the time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all.  An update on the o/d inhibitor switch.  After trying the Rimmers bracket and marvelling at the poor quality, I ordered the Canley item and was pleasantly surprised by the quality item that arrived.  Comparing the 2 the Canley item is much better made and looks very like the original (in pictures as I don’t have an original).  
 

Side by side, the 2 items profile is different too.  In pic one with the mounting holes aligned, the actual switch mounting hole is slightly different.  The Rimmers item is black and the Canley grey.

in pic 2 you can see the difference in quality with the Canley unit having obvious bends while the Rimmers unit sort of bends a bit!

So all looking good.  So off I go to fit it.

Not good.  The switch is nearer but still doesn’t touch in 3rd and 4th.  See pics 3 & 4.

I tried changing the switch for an original but that doesn’t help either.

Interesting that in 3rd the switch is also too far forward to touch the switch 😖

So ironically I may have to revert to the Rimmers item and bend it as there is no chance of bending the Canley item.

Sorry, I realise I’m making far too much fuss and it’s only a switch bracket and bending the and using the cheap item is no big deal!

Am I missing something obvious?

Rich 😩

IMG_2483.jpeg

IMG_2484.jpeg

IMG_2486.jpeg

IMG_2485.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think your operator could be straightened a bit so that it ends up further forward and then I would stick with the Canleys bracket but bend its top inwards. You need a vice to bend just the part with the hole in so effectively straightening the last bend below... How much does the ball of the switch have to be pressed to close the circuit? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah as Johny says the arm on the gearshift mechanism is bent. Straightening both the piece parallel to the gearshift and the bit perpendicular to it should bring you in to contact with the switch. They really don’t need much to actuate. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 24/02/2024 at 20:16, SpitfireGeorge said:

I used the original Triumph bracket and the Rimmer switch was short hence machining the switch so that it goes further through the bracket.

Yes, that’s ideal.  Interestingly I have an old switch and a new switch and id say they are about the same depth

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, so I first tried bending the activator arm straight.  Still not enough.

Next I tried reaming the mounting holes as much as the bracket could move inwards.  Still not enough so I had to bend the bracket.  I hate it when z shape brackets aren’t parallel on the 2 vertical face so managed to bend the centre slopey bit more then the upper section straight again.  SUCCESS!

So it seems that even the quality Canley bracket needed adjustment.

I did notice that the older switch activation ball had to be pushed in further on the old switch.

To anybody having a similar issue, using a blow torch to heat the activator arm and bracket made light work of the bending although I had to do a bit of a Heath Robinson to be able to bend the bracket because of the awkward shape.

Thanks all for the good advice, much appreciated.

Rich

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brilliant and the operator now makes good contact with the ball? I think this is important so that if the switch 'relaxes' a bit with usage (like the old one?) theres still enough to ensure continued correct operation... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...