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Vitesse Front Carb Float Valve always leaks


Peter Truman

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If I haven't started the Mk2 with Stromberg Carbs for a couple of months the front carb always leaks it literally pours fuel out, the rear carb is OK.

I have to drop the float chamber off (a pita) remove and clean the float valve with carb/throttle clean reassemble and all is OK then, no leak

I've changed the standard Stromberg float valve front to rear carb, even put new float valves in, even tried USA Grosse valves (useless!) but still the front valve leaks after a car lay up. The rear carb is always OK. Yes I've reset the floats to the 18mm offset

The engine in the Vitesse sits front up a little so the front carb is slightly higher, so is the issue modern ULP petrol (I use BP 98 I think it's 5% ethanol), does the front carb being higher dry out and the valve gums up or what?

I know the solution is start the car more regularily but life gets in the way & time accelerates when you get older, anyone have a solution?

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I dont know about starting the car as then really it should have a proper run but just filling the carb chambers with fuel using the pump manual lever I think would help. As you say its probably difficult to find time to do this regularly but would it be possible to do it say 24h before youre going to use the car in the hope of disolving the gum? Otherwise maybe one of the fuel stabilising additives might be worth a try? 

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Interesting subject. I have had similar problems, and those #¤%&¤# rubber slivers have often been the root cause for leaking. But not always. I must have had my carbs apart at least 50 times. I don’t ned the manual anymore. My personal opinion is that even if you assemble them 100% by the book, on top of that the moon and the stars must align, the wind must blow in the right direction and the feng-shui must be good in your garage in order to avoid leaking Strombergs. My carbs are not leaking at the moment, so I will not refurnish or change the layout of my garage, it could cause bad karma.

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the dreaded  rubber slivers sit behind the float needle .

every time you mess with the fuel hoses you are likely to make them ,they breed like rabbits 

i would take the valve out and pump a few good squirts of fuel into a jar see if you catch some

Pete

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As above, I had a leaky Hs6 on my Vitesse, new needle valves. Not immediately apparent, but it was some form of debris, grain of sand size, probably rubber that was the cause. By the time investigated the float lid, needle valve was prestine, clean and working  but the evidence had passed through and was in the bottom of the float chamber. Have a very close look in the float chamber and dig around with a scribe. Check the mesh in the fuel pump also to see what's been caught.

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Did that, there was no debris in float valve or float chamber in some instances the needle was stuck open had to use carby clean to get it free there’s no issue if I start it regularly 

I have filters at the tank outlet and fuel pump inlet, the hoses are not a push or tight fit on the stubs I rely on the hose clips to seal the joints I haven’t seen any rubber slithers

I’m sure it’s lack of use and modern fuels gumming up the float valve also the higher front carb evaporating out the fuel in the float chamber

 

 

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1 hour ago, Peter Truman said:

also the higher front carb evaporating out the fuel in the float chamber

Not sure the front carb would actually 'know' that it's higher (or is even one of a pair).

In 'use' all it sees is pressurized fuel supply, controlled by the valve and float level.

I would agree that it is possible that the valve is gumming up as the float chamber dries out and that the valve in the front carb is more susceptible to its effect. Having said that, you said you have already tried swapping valves over and that made no difference.

When I have had flooding issues in the past, I have just removed the float bowl and pumped a bit of fuel through into a jar, before refitting. If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner it might be worth giving the valve(s) a quick blast using a carburetor cleaner to try and remove any accumulated gum. 

Hope you get it sorted.

Ian

Edited by Ian Foster
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there is no inherent cause for any float needle to fail other than damaged seating, debris. foreign 

bodies of a float problem 

have to say with the Vit6 on solex for 2 yrs and then 18 yrs on strombergs the only flooder i have had was the 2000 on darn HS4s and that was the float platform wear ridges ,new floats and thats been surprisingly fine for 8 years regardless of who's or what E fuel is used 

both just start on the button once you hand prime the chambers full.

alway  use stuff like gates barricade hose and the dreaded slivers wont get generated

use cheap crap of a market place and expect headaches 

the 2000 is still on original 50yr old fuel hose ....stuff triumph made to a specification that works

so much hose sold with reputed R numbers is generally  ......just rubbish 

Pete

 

 

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7 hours ago, Stratton Jimmer said:

Since the E5 and now E10 fuel has been around I have had a few carb problems which are now a thing of the past as I add "Ethanolmate" to each tank of fuel om my bikes and the cars. Other brands with similar properties are available.

Might try and see if I can find some Ethanolmate here, I use local refinery produced 98RON BP WHICH is rumored? to be ethanol free here in Victoria whereas other states refineries are 5% ethanol 

Pete re floats I've been thinking of updrading to the solid non sink type rather than the moulded type used in the Strombergs.

Edited by Peter Truman
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later floats have a riveted  double arm to operate a LHor RH  float position  these can easily get clipped in upside down and that makes problems even if the 18mm is correct.

there are some good pictures on buckeye triumphs  under carbs , this site is aimed at TR but the basics are the same 

Pete

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