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Luminition magnatronic


Andrew

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Hi Andrew,

 

I imagine it's a good idea.  I don't have any first-hand experience of the the Lumenition Magnatronic system but I have had the Optronic system on my Vitesse since the 1980's and it's been reliable. Amongst other things, it compensates for certain amount of wear in the distributor but best of all it removes the points and condensor thus eliminating the problem of setting points, which wear and degrade over time.

 

Tom 

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Yes, what Tom says! There isn't a disadvantage, except I would put your old points in a plastic bag and keep them in the boot, in case the electronics fail. Some of the cheap ones are a bit suspect, I bought a decent Aldon one from the club shop. 

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The reason I say luminition magnatronic as I always work on the basis as the club shop sells them they must have a good track record and this is where I will buy one from always try to support the club shop first

Andrew

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 I used Aldon on the Vit6  delco for 13 yrs  and fitted Lumenition to the 2000  same as SimonO  says   and both behave perfectly

 

check that you can get a kit to suit your  particular  distributor. model number .   some  dizzy  are not always specified as a fit .

 

Pete

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There are only 2 coil types , with a few variants in between but basically

 

cars with a ballasted ignition run at 6-8 volts and need a 1.5 ohm coil

these are found on spitfires and GT6

these can have a ceramic resistor or a pale pink resistive feed to the coil -ve

And have a yellow white from the starter solenoid to the coil -ve

 

cars without a ballast run 12v ignition and use a 3 ohm coil

these should be herald and vitesse have a single white wire to the coil

nothing from the solenoid

 

some coils are maked 12v for ballast only these are 6v 1.5 ohm coils

 

providing you were sold the correct coil for your car it will work fine on any electronic unit

 

the electronics only replace the mechanical switching of the points with a semiconductor to switch to

switch the coil theres no magic stuff inside , they just switch very accuratley where as mechanical points can burn bounce and can be very erratic.

pete

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Pete

On another small matter connected to distributor points issue. I have just taken the distributor cap off just to see if I need anything else for tomorrow when I will go to the club shop to buy the electronic ignition and I have noticed the base plate in the distributor moves up and down when I get hold of it manually, I know it moves round to accommodate the vacuumed advance but is it right it moves up and down like it appears to be loose how is it fixed down

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is this lucas or delco ???

 

the moving plate is normally held down with a spring arrangement and depeds in make delco have a collar that crimps the two halves  lucas have short posts and key hole slots with a sprung retainer

 

the fixed  base is two screws into the cast body on Lucas 

on delco its three screws thro the base into the upturned ears on the base plate

 

Pete

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Good the top moving plate is supported on posts which slide around a slot with a key hole to allow removal , you need to release the points screw to allow it to detach the key holes posts.

 

theres a spring clamp to damp movement and this holds it in place.

 

you need to unhitch ths vac spring to lift the plate off

 

if looking its best to take the two screws out the base plate and examine the two plates on the bench

 

pete

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Don't do what i have seen a number of times and use the feed to your 6v coil as the supply to the new electronic ignition, as suggested in the instructions, as they assume you have a 12v coil. You only get 6-8v.

 

That said, I saw a SimonBBC unit fitted to a 2.5S saloon, that had, due to the fact it had a much earlier engine fitted, and an electical novice as an owner, both a resistive wire and a ceramic ballast resistor, and teh unit was working (ok-ish) at the 4v it was being supplied.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry to jump on this thread however i have a Luminition ignition (Vitesse MK 1 with 2500TC engine) which is great and faultless.  My question is (i didnt fit it 'PO') id like to have the condensor and points as spare in the boot 'just in case' as already mentioned by Dougbgt6.

 

What would i need?  Just the points and condenser? and would it be an easy replacement i.e. taking off the electronic items?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Rich

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There are some very dodgy condensers around so probably best to test it all first. Maybe run it for a week or so. A bit of a faff but no point in having a backup plan if it doesn't work! It took me 10 minutes to fit the electronics and reset the timing, so probably the same to reverse it. And there's a little screw that holds the condenser down, have a look on Canleys for a picture.

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