Bordfunker Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 As some of you may know I have stripped down the front driver's side suspension on my 1200 Herald after noticing how tired a number of the bushes looked. I'm replacing the rubber bushes with blue polyurethane items, and have bought the correct grease to allow these to be inserted. However I am assuming that I also need to lubricate the internal metal bush to wishbone bolt interface where the wishbone pivots vertically, see blue circles in picture below. What should I be using for this? Grease? EP90? All advice happily accepted. Thanks Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomL Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Hi Karl, Assuming you are using polyurethane bushes, I would use the lubricant that comes with these, often in a little sachet. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 The bush will pivot about the tube insert this tube is clamped by the pivot through bolt it does not and should not be moving and does not need any lubrication other than to improve / resist corrosion of the bolt only fully tighten the pivot bolts when the car is on the deck at its static ride height Not hanging off a jack or un bodied. pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 Used silicone grease on the polyurethane bushes and the stainless steel inserts I recently fitted to my Vitesse and copperslip on the bolts. Also found the wishbones moved fairly easily after tightening the bolts to the required torque. Having said that I also made an adaptor to fit the top of a scissors jack so I could lift each wheel in turn to tighten shock absorber bolts etc. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 Be very careful using grease or other lubricants with bushes. Both Rubber and Polyurethane bushes don't react well to grease and oils. For rubber bushes, if lubrication is necessary, use the red rubber grease. For Polyurethane bushes, use a fully synthetic grease, such as Super Lube Multi-purpose synthetic grease. Also, be wary of bushes that have a Stainless steel sleeve - you get more corrosion of the pinch bolt than when using a normal steel sleeve ! To minimise corrosion with stainless steel sleeves, you need to use stainless steel bolts - BUT as it is for a suspension system, where bolt tensile strength is important, Stainless Steel bolts are a no no - they aren't strong enough. The best way to prevent corrosion between the sleeve and the bolt is to use plenty of waterproof grease (such as Molykote Longterm W2) on the shank of the bolt - but being careful to keep it out of contact with the rubber or Polyurethane material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted February 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 All, many thanks for the responses on this. Sounds like I ought to protect the sleeve/bolt with silicone grease purely to resist corrosion, as one of the original bolts was seized into both the sleeve and the fulcrum bracket when I removed the wishbone, and I want to avoid that in future. Thanks again Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 with luck depends where you buy the poly bushes they come with a sachet of a paste./ powdery type grease to use on the bushing. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted February 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 I bought a few of those when I ordered the bushes, so I'll make sure I apply some to the bolts and sleeves as well. Just need to finish repainting the suspension components first. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted February 25, 2017 Report Share Posted February 25, 2017 I did this, saves alott of greif,!! every noo an then, a squirt wid grease gun wid oil in it M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 26, 2017 Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 I always assumed that the sleeve rotated around the bolt, so a liberal coating of copper grease on the bolt saved bother later on. The actual bush was a static fit in the wishbone and around the sleeve, so didn't move and therefore does not require lubrication? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 26, 2017 Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 yes its a crush tube , so you do the bolt up to the book figure of 22-28lbft , that is only achieved when the tube is clamped solid between the legs of the bracket it may be forced to rotate under some extreme forces but in normal use its static, its the elasticity of torsional twist in the bush that allows any movement of the wishbone, hence the need to tighten when on the deck at kerb weight well something like that Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted February 26, 2017 Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 Pete has it spot on. The reason for greasing the bolt with a waterproof grease (not copper slip) is to stop corrosion and stop the grease "washing out" over the years, so it will be easier to dismantle in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAW1969 Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 Interesting stuff indeed. I've been slowly undertaking a similar comprehensive front suspension overhaul this winter. An MOT advisory on a perished rubber fulcrum bush and one thing led to another. I realise now I've forgotten to use the little sachet that came with the blue poly-bushes - and I've only got n/s lower wishbone to go back on. Is it worthwhile me taking the ones already back on (n/s upper and o/s upper and lower) off again to put the lubricant in? Nothing has been tightened up yet as the car's up in the air with the road spring units still on the workbench. I had though the lube was for use if you couldn't get them in. Mine went in quite easily (and I was grateful to finally find something straightforward to do!). Any thoughts much appreciated. Cheers Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 Used Superflex bushes with the grease supplied as was told the bushes act as a bearing unlike the original rubber ones. Also do not think suppliers would include it if not needed. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 Richard no you dont have a life/running problem with dry bushes as yours assembled easily. this is c/o superflex note it is 'ASSEMBLY' Lubricant not a general working lubricant , so it assists assembly only . Pete Technical Information General Handling of SuperFlex Products Remove all dust, previous bush residue, paint or old grease from contact surfaces, prior to fitment. Ensure any original outer shell is not inadvertently left in place. A common mistake where the old rubber bush has unbonded from its shell. In some instances the outer shell is intentionally left in place, as described in models and descriptions on our price lists. Do not fit new bushes to worn, rusty, or distorted fittings. Worn components must be replaced. Lightly coat bush contact surfaces with assembly lubricant (where supplied) prior to fitment. Insert the stainless steel tubes (where applicable) after the bushes are installedinto their housing. Immersing high-interference fit bushes in warm water, can assist fitting in a very cold climate. Before the final tightening, suspension arms must be at normal ride height. When replacing original componentry, ensure that all nuts and bolts are tightened to original manufacturer’s specifications. Bushes must not come into contact with alcohol-based solvents such as MEK, methanol, or methylated spirit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAW1969 Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 OK. Thanks. Presumably contact surfaces means both on the outside of the polybush where it contacts the wishbone pivot hole and the inside of the polybush where it contacts the crush tube? Thinking I might aswell try and do one right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 you can read into it as much as you want it too !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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