WDV Posted April 1, 2018 Report Posted April 1, 2018 Decided to replace the bearing on my spitfire which I thought was the source of the noise emanating from the left rear wheel. Thinking this a one-day jobby, got myself a universal hub puller (mistake); start to puller, hammer and heating it up with a flame - no joy. At some point I realised; I don’t hear the noise anymore when turning, why? This is after dismantling everything including the brakes. So I decided to inspect the brake part where I discover it is missing the cylinder retaining plate and the cylinder has a scratch mark just there where the back of the wheel stubs passes. At which time it dawned on me that this is probably the source of the noise. I could kick myself. I wish I could say I just order this £3 retaining plate, reassemble everything and it is job done. No. Because I used a flame to heat up the hub I probably cooked the oil seal which needs to be replaced now, and to do that ….. I need to pull off the hub - back to square one. Still don’t have the hub off; any advise welcome. What I really need now is to lay my hands on a proper hub puller - does anybody have one I can hire for a day? I live in Beckenham (BR3)
dougbgt6 Posted April 1, 2018 Report Posted April 1, 2018 You could go to your nearest area meeting. I go to Thames and they have an extensive set of tools for higher. Nearest meeting near you is, I think, Surrey 13 miles. Details on the front page under Area Directory, there's a contact number and an Email address, give them a ring see if they can sort you out. Doug
WDV Posted April 30, 2018 Author Report Posted April 30, 2018 Thank you for the advice. Got my hands on a professionally made puller, don't trust my welding - a bit rusty. Put it on, wind it up and the hub was off in under an hour.
Pete Lewis Posted May 1, 2018 Report Posted May 1, 2018 And the oil seal is fitted lip outwards to keep dirt out rather than grease in And heat the hub end has probably not had any effect on the seal or bearing , getting the shaft out the trunion brearing block can also be a challenge, it should just knock off..... refitting there in no register on the shaft , you knock the bearing assy on and let the hub and its nut press the block and backplate into position Do make sure the trailing brake shoes have the rear shoe with unused square handbrake hole is at the bottom So many are fitted upside down The cyl. horse shoe clips have been discussed else where on here but curved against the back plate flat one over the top Not held with a tyrap as we found on an local, car!!!! Pete
WDV Posted May 12, 2018 Author Report Posted May 12, 2018 @Pete Lewis From what you are saying, and from what I understand rearing the manual, the seals go in "backwards" to the normal way of doing. In other words, compared to the image below, the oil side and air side is reversed.
68vitesse Posted May 12, 2018 Report Posted May 12, 2018 Both seals lips face towards the diff on the swing axle suspension, the outer one stops grease getting into the brakes. The inner one allows grease out so grease can flow through the bearings when applying grease gun. Regards Paul
Pete Lewis Posted May 12, 2018 Report Posted May 12, 2018 And a service is 4 pumps on the gun ..whos gun what gun not specified so dont go mad just enough to see it ooze out a little. Pete
WDV Posted May 13, 2018 Author Report Posted May 13, 2018 @68vitesse thanks for the advice, I was about put in the outer seal the wrong way as well. Think I got it now.
68vitesse Posted May 14, 2018 Report Posted May 14, 2018 Just pump some grease through before you put the axle back in the car, there was some bad inner seals about outer diameter to small. I had one although it was in the right way when I pumped in grease the seal was forced out of the trunnion a replacement from a different suppler was ok. Regards Paul
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