Paula Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 I rubbed it down again and did some better filling and I managed to get a coat of paint on today, the wind is really not helping. It's definitely going to be an improvement to the bubbling splitting mess it was and the other touch up bits will make a big difference. I also treated it all to help with the rust. (i'm trying to convince myself i'm not just bodging it, I can hear Fuzz Townshend disapproving from the future) Once i've done the final coat is there a good polish for freshly done cellulose paint that will help my less than professional job shine? I've got some AutoGlym Super Resin and some MER somewhere I think. Thanks for the tips! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 i would let it harden for a week then add another double coat, dont cut celly paint for at least a month or more it takes a good while to cure fully others will have better ideas pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 24 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: i would let it harden for a week then add another double coat, dont cut celly paint for at least a month or more it takes a good while to cure fully others will have better ideas pete Oh wow. That's a long time. Thanks, I definitely would not have done that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 yes if you polish or cut back a soft paint it will give you a dull finish no expert just the stuff stays sort of fluid for ages with celly you build up a good thickness of paint and polish the shine with 2 pack the chemical reaction gives a very hard and shiny finish on application its going to be warmish and sunny till the weekend , good weather for spraying apart from the wind Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 Pete's right - you need to let it set properly. The book on painting that I bought long ago (definitely more than 20 years) says at least two weeks before cutting but the longer the better (within reason, obviously). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 On 19/04/2020 at 19:33, poppyman said: You are right Mark, it is porous. Might idea to warm it up with a heat gun or hair dryer Paula, before putting on the top coat. Tony. Ok. Will do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 What about sanding between coats? I’ve got some 1200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 If the last coat you applied is dusty or heavily rippled or orange peeled, then leave it to dry for a few days minimum before flatting with your 1200 grit, wet, then dry the water off before applying more coats. If you're getting a decent finish, though, you're better to just re-coat before it cures, build up some depth, then let the whole lot dry properly. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 On 19/04/2020 at 19:33, poppyman said: You are right Mark, it is porous. Might idea to warm it up with a heat gun or hair dryer Paula, before putting on the top coat. Tony. Ok. Will do 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 Ok great stuff. thank you. I’ll post pictures as I go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 On 19/04/2020 at 19:33, poppyman said: You are right Mark, it is porous. Might idea to warm it up with a heat gun or hair dryer Paula, before putting on the top coat. Tony. Ok. Will do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Great. On my way to work today and 2nd gear doesn’t want to play. It’s grinding and not selecting at all. I can get into it from neutral, but not up or down from 1st or 3rd. bugger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 That could be the clutch, or it could be a worn synchro, or possibly the gear lever bush (it can fail in such a way that you aren't putting it properly in on the move). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 It is exactly like I’m not putting it in properly. I’m guessing the next move is to look at the selector (after I check clutch) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 I had a gear lever bush failure on my GT6 last year, while I was out and about. The immediately obvious symptom was exactly as you say - wouldn't go into second and graunched horribly when I tried. Slightly less immediately obvious was that the gearstick was a bit loose and dropped down a bit. I found that if I deliberately lifted the stick while shifting then I could get it into second easily enough to get me home. This is what I found when I looked at the bush: Top left is a new nylon bush. Top right is the one that came out. Bottom is the metal bush that goes above it, and the green arrow shows the rough edge that had done the damage. This was a fairly new bush kit - they're very poorly made. Check that edge on any you're about to fit and if necessary, file/sand/grind it down until it's smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 youre not driving in your stilleto's are you ??? its looking like the tunnel off again if you want to bleed the clutch slave it is just about possible with a bent ring spanner to get at the bleed from the engine bay, tie some string to recover the spanner when its dropped. being an acrobat also helps someone was selling metal cup washers due to the plastic getting cut to bits by the razor Rob has shown Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 4 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: youre not driving in your stilleto's are you ??? Pete can tell you how it's done, I've some photos somewhere. Doug 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Oui, thats sneaky Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham C Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Have you checked your clutch fluids? Lose of fluid could indicate failed master or slaved failed cylinders? Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said: Pete can tell you how it's done, I've some photos somewhere. Doug That we need to see! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 8 minutes ago, Graham C said: Have you checked your clutch fluids? Lose of fluid could indicate failed master or slaved failed cylinders? Graham There's plenty of fluid in there unfortunately Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Is this it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 yes thats the top half underside is a number of rod and pivot bushes its lookng a bit old and tired and lots of gunge if any of the cup washers has failed you can swap them form above but nay play in the ball or the underside pivots needs the remote taken off the top of the ...gearbox back to tunnel out remote is only 4 nuts easier to remove than the tunnel Ha i know nothing about foot wear but did get roped into frilly skirt , rolled up trousers doing the can can with billy dainty and his troupe of girls at babbacome theatre luckily not many know that Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 This is where I am at the moment.is it the 4 nuts I’m pointing at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 16 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: luckily not many know that Pete They do now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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